496 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS through an assembly of hair to arrange the fibers in a parallel array. Therefore, combing ease measurements provide one convenient means to assess the ease of arranging hair in place. Table II contains quantitative combing data for Caucasian hair using a procedure (1) similar to the one described by Garcia and Diaz (7). These data were evaluated by two different statistical tests: the parametric two-way Analysis of Variance (10) and the nonparametric two-way Friedman test (11). Both statistical procedures show significant decreasing combing loads with each successive comb pass through the hair (runs). The more parallel the arrangement of fibers to begin with, the easier they are to arrange subsequently. Significant differences were also observed between bleached hair, po- made-treated hair, and the other treatments. These types of data may be used in various ways to describe manageability. However, for simplicity we recommend the following scheme. A control treatment is first de- fined. We recommend a high cleaning shampoo or sodium lauryl sulfate washed hair, and, preferably, undamaged hair. Develop data by a quantitative combing procedure similar to one of those described in the reference section. Then use either average peak combing load or work of combing values to calculate style arrangement manageability values relative to the control (Table III). The data of Table III define style arrangement manageability in terms of a ratio of control/treatment values. This is a simple approach mathematically, suggesting that all treatments with values greater than 1.00 provide more manageable hair (style arrange- ment manageability) than the control, while treatments with values less than 1.00 make hair less manageable than the control. The data of Table III suggest that the bleaching treatment makes the hair more difficult to arrange in place than the control, while both stearalkonium chloride (SAC) and the pomade improve style arrangement manageability relative to the control. The pomade is more effective than SAC for improving style arrangement manageability. The po- made, however, is useful only for "wet look" or greasy hair styles, while SAC is effective Table II Quantitative Dry Combing Test Data @ Grams Peak Load Treatment Treatments @ Run 1 Run 2 Run 3 Means Bleached (Maxi Blonde 1-Hr) 42.50 19.54 15.83 25.96* SLS (10% sodium lauryl sulfate) 20.29 12.28 10.71 14.43 SAC ( 1% stearalkonium chloride) 18.00 12.86 8.43 13.09 Pomade (mineral oil/petrolatum) 8.09 5.08 5.00 6.06* Run Means 22.22* 18.44' 9.99* @ For additional details regarding treatments and experimental procedures, see reference (1). Three-gram tresses were prepared from undamaged 8-inch dark brown Caucasian hair from DeMeo Brothers, New York. * Indicates significant difference via 2-way Friedman test.

HAIR MANAGEABILITY 497 Table III Style Arrangement Manageability Froin Dry Combing # Treatments Style Arrangement Manageability Control/Treatment Ratio Bleached 0.56 SLS 1.00' SAC 1.10 Pomade 2.38 # Calculated from combing data of Table lI. * Control. for "dry look" styles. The tester must use judgement to determine what types of treat- ments are comparable. In some cases it would be ludicrous to compare a pomade with a SAC-based conditioner because of the aforementioned limitations with regard to hair styles. A similar procedure may be employed to assess style arrangement manageability for wet hair using quantitative wet combing data. Usually manageability is more closely related to dry hair effects than wet hair effects. If a treatment improves dry hair style arrange- ment ease, it will generally improve wet hair style arrangement manageability. Excep- tions to this "rule of thumb" will occur. STYLE RETENTION MANAGEABILITY TESTS This type of manageability may be assessed by several different tests including those used to evaluate style retention (12). When style retention tests are used, emphasis should be on short time intervals rather than long-term effects, i.e., minutes rather than hours. For this comparison we recommend, as with style arrangement manage- ability, using the ratio of control/treatment values. An example is illustrated in Table IV. Style retention is greater for higher percent curl retentions, and we are using a ratio of control/treatment values. Therefore, we have calculated style retention manageability from reciprocals of percent set retention data. This will provide higher style retention manageability values for treatments that provide higher set retention. The data of Table IV suggest that coarse hair fibers are more manageable in the style retention process than medium diameter hair fibers and that style retention manage- Table IV Style Retention Manageability From Set Retention % Set Retention Reciprocal Fiber Diameter With Comb-Out of Set Style Retention in Microns (20 Min.)# Retention Manageability # 89 82 0.0122 1.04 76 79 0.0127 1.00' 65 59 0.0169 0.75 # Estimated from graph by Yin et al. (13). * 76-Micron fiber was arbitrarily chosen as the control.