PREPRINTS OF THE 1996 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 291 uronic acid acting as the substrate polymer. Some of the papain-polymer conjugates were characterized by gel electrophoresis, gel filtration and perfusion chromatographies, and colorimetric methods. The immobilized enzymes were characterized for activity in an in vitro assay that uses Ac-Arg-pNA as the substrate. The results showed the enzyme retained its activity when bound to the polymer. The conjugated enzymes were characterized for activity in promoting turnover of the stratum corneum. Three test subjects were chosen for the study. The effectiveness of enzyme-induced exfoliation was determined by applying daily the test samples to a patch of skin on the volar portion of the arm previously stained by dihydroxyacetone (DHA). To monitor turnover of the stratum corneum, the fade-out of DHA-pigmented skin was measured over a nine-day period of time using a Minolta chromameter. The chromameter data from each subject were averaged to de- termine the mean changes in b* value over time. Previous studies showed that the DHA-fadeout assay correlated well with the more traditional dansyl chloride method of monitoring turnover of the stratum corneum (1). The chromameter data were corrected for natural exfoliation by subtracting the changes in b* value for a DI water-treated skin patch. The study showed that immobilized papain (0.005 to 0.25% papain) was as effective as 8-10% lactic acid lotions in promoting turnover of the stratum corneum (Figure 2). These immobilized enzyme products could be used for a wide range of applications and unique product development opportunities. For example, a formulator could imagine developing an anti-wrinkle hydrogel capable of exfoliating the stratum corneum while moisturizing at the same time. Other examples of new product opportunities include moisturizer products, night-time products, and tanning products where evenness and tanning duration are important claims. 2: 0 . -2 2 10% Lactic Acid HA-Papain Alginate-Papain Carbomer-Papain ' ' ''1 .... I- ' ' '1 .... I .... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Time (days) Figure 2. Change in b* value over time for DHA-treated skin.

292 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS REFERENCE (1) G. E. Pierard and C. Pierard-Franchimont, Dihydroxyacetone test as a substitute for the dansyl chloride test, Dermato/ogy, 185, 133-137 (1993). Characterization and chemistry of enhanced-efficacy (activated) aluminum-zirconium-glycine (AZG) antiperspirant actives' A new approach ALLAN H. ROSENBERG, Summit Research Labs, Huguenot, NY 12746, INTRODUCTION Enhanced-efficacy (activated) antiperspirant actives were first introduced into the mar- ketplace in the early 1980s in the form of activated aluminum chlorohydrate powder (ACH), which was primarily used in aerosol products. The key factors for manufacturing these materials were the ability to characterize the aluminum polymer distributions present in the actives by chromatographic and metal analysis techniques and the ability to achieve an aluminum polymer distribution that gives enhanced efficacy compared to the standard (normal) ACH powders (1-3). Figure 1 shows aluminum polymer distributions for standard and activated ACH actives obtained from a Sephadex G-25 (S) column. Since larger polymers elute faster than smaller polymers, the molecular weight of the polymers decreases as elution time (i.e., Kd values) increases. Notice that activated ACH contains a large amount of the alu- minum polymer designated as A1 Kdo.4, while standard ACH contains little AI Kdo. 4. As seen from many clinical efficacy studies, the enrichment in A1 Kdo. 4 is the primary reason for the superior efficacy of activated ACH compound to standard ACH. •. ss.•m NO• AC44 Z ]f• : • ß -, ACTIVAToeOAC41 Figure 1. Aluminum polymer distributions for normal (standard) and activated ACH actives.