PREPRINTS OF THE 1996 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 295 Table I Formulations of Sunscreen Creams Formulation Cream A Cream B Nikkomulese 41 2.5 % Glyceryl stearate 1.0% Ceteth-20 0.5 Sorbeth-40 tetraoleate 1.0 Behenyl alcohol 5.0 Glyceryl trioctanoate 7.0 7.0 Octyl paramethoxycinnamate 6.0 6.0 Oxybenzone 2.0 2.0 Propylparaben 0.1 0.1 Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 Xanthangum 0.3 0.3 Purified water 81.9 76.9 cosmetics. We found that Nikkomulese 41 (polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate/behenyl al- cohol/sodium stearoyl lactylate) formed a gel network structure in water and that the gel network structure stabilized O/W emulsions. The emulsions prepared with Nikko- mulese 41 had higher water resistance, moisturizing effect, and emulsion stability than those prepared with traditional emulsifiers (ethoxylates). We also developed a new formulation of sunscreen cream containing 8% of micronized pigments by using Nik- komulese 41 to create a gel network structure and by using polyglyceryl-6 ricinolate as a dispersing agent and polyglyceryl-10 isostearate as a co-emulsifier. WATER RESISTANCE (SPF TESTING) The O/W cream prepared with Nikkomulese 41 showed 26% and 91% higher SPF value than a cream prepared with a traditional emulsifier system, under both static and water Figure 1. SPF valt•es of sunscreen creams.

296 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table II Formulations of Emollient Creams Formulation Cream A Cream B Nikkomulese 41 2.5% -- Ceteth-20 -- 1.0% Sorbeth-40 tetraoleate -- 0.5 Glyceryl stearate -- 1.0 Behenyl alcohol -- 4.0 Squalane 10.0 10.0 Pentaerythrytol tetraoctanoate 10.0 10.0 Propylparaben 0.1 0.1 Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 Xanthangum 0.3 0.3 Purified water 76.9 72.9 Figure 2. Water content in the stratum corneum. Table III Formulation of Sunscreen Cream Polyglyceryl-6 ricinolate Micronized titanium dioxide Octyldodecyl neopentanoate Caprylic/capric triglyceride Phenylmethicone Nikkomulese 41 Octyldodecyl neopentanoate Cetyl alcohol Propylparaben Polyglyceryl- 10 isostearate Methylparaben Xanthangum Purified water 1.5% 8.0 5.0 5.0 15.0 2.0 5.0 2.0 0.1 3.0 0.2 0.3 52.9