540 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE apoeccrine sweat glands. Here, we provide an overview of Profiling of serine protease activities in human stratum the morphological, structural and functional characteristics comeum and detection of a stratum comeum tryptase-like of the different gland types and present techniques that enzyme allow their clear distinction. Moreover, we describe R. Voegeli*, A. V. Rawlingst, S. Doppler*, J. Heilandt different forms of perspiration as physical reactions to and T. Schreier* external and internal stimuli. *Pentapharm Ltd, Engelgasse 109, 4002 Basel, Switzerland, tA VR Consulting Ltd, 26 Shavington Way, Anti-microbial and -inflammatory activity and efficacy of Kingsmead, Northwich, Cheshire CW9 8FH, U.K. and phytosphingosine: an in vitro and in vivo study addressing tHeiland Electronic GmbH, Schulstrasse 8, 35579 Wetzlar, acne vulgaris T. Pavicic*, U. Wollenwebert, M. Farwickt and H. C. Korting**Department of Dermatology and Allergolo � Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich, Germany and Germany R. Voegeli, Pentapharm Ltd, Engelgasse 109, 4002 Basel, Switzerland. Tel.: +41 61 706 4848 fax: +41 61 706 4800 e-mail: rainer. voegeli@.pentapharm.com Degussa AG, Care and Surface Specialities, Goldschmidt The paper was presented at the 24th IFSCC Congress 2006, GmbH, Essen, Germany Osaka, Japan. Tatjana Pavicic, Department of Dermatology and Seasonal variation in stratum comeum (SC) biophysical Allergology, Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich and biological characteristics has been described FrauenlobstraBe 9-11, D-80337 Miinchen, Germany. Tel.: previously. In particular, the winter season has been shown +49 0 89/5160 6117 fax: +49 0 89/5160 6110 E-mail: to affect more severely the properties of facial skin tatjana.pavicic@med.uni-muenchen.de compared with forearm skin. Moreover, when compromised, such as in dry skin conditions, facial SC has Lipids are important constituents of the human epidermis. been shown to contain increased inflammatory cytokines Either free and organized into broad lipid bilayers in the and proteases. Nevertheless, there have been no intercomeocytes spaces, or covalently bound to the comparative studies of the activities and depth activity of comeocyte envelope, they play a crucial role in several proteases in the SC on different body sites and at permeability barrier function and are major contributors to different times of the year. In this study, we examined the cutaneous anti-microbial defense. Free sphingoid bases are distribution of key serine protease activities (kallikrein 5, a recent addition to this family of active lipids, which kallikrein 7, urokinase, plasmin and a tryptase-like enzyme) emerged from studies of breakdown products from in different layers of the SC on the cheek and the forearm ceramides. Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid occurring by analysis of consecutive tape strippings of healthy naturally in the stratum comeum, both in its free form and Caucasian subjects during winter and summer. The protein as a part of the major fraction of ceramides. The content of the tape strippings was quantified by absorption biotechnological production of PS patented by Degussa measurements with a recently developed and novel infrared yields to PS with the correct configuration present in the densitometer SquameScan™ 850A while the SC enzyme skin. So, application of a PS containing formulation leads activities were determined using fluorogenic peptide to its integration into the natural lipid structures of the skin. substrates. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH In acne, different pathogenetic factors contribute to the and skin hydration were higher on the cheek than on the inflammation process, defect in keratinization, increased forearm. In the same way, the activity of the inflammatory­ sebaceous gland activity and increased colonization of related proteases plasmin, urokinase and tryptase was Propionibacterium acnes. The results of in vitro and in vivo approximately five to eight times and the activity of the studies confirm the previous reports on strong anti- desquamatory-related proteases kallikrein 5 and kallikrein 7 microbial effectiveness of skin-identical PS produced by approximately two to four times higher on the cheek than Degussa in vitro and in vivo. In addition, PS shows on the forearm. There were no gender-related differences in excellent clinical results in the context of skin care in acne, these enzyme activities except for the increased kallikrein 7 based on both anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial in the forearm skin of the female subjects in winter. activity. These results demonstrate the potential of PS to Reduced kallikrein 5 was associated with increased SC enhance or complement existing acne therapies acting as an cohesion, as judged by increased protein removal, in active cosmetic ingredient. forearm skin in the winter months of the year although the

ABSTRACTS 541 skin was clinically nonnal. It can be concluded that (i) and without PFPE phosphate, by visual observation and protected skin areas show lower TEWL, skin pH and skin instrumentation (pH measures and 1 H-NMR spectroscopy). hydration and less protease activities than skin areas that Furthennore, to evaluate whether the substances produced are exposed to the environment, possibly indicating from the DHA degradation are potential irritants, patch subclinical inflammation on these body sites, (ii) in normal tests on volunteers were used to check the safety and healthy foreann skin, the outer SC exhibits greater serine indirectly the stability of the compositions. In conclusion, protease activity than its deeper layers, (iii) compared with our investigations on the guidelines to formulate DHA­ the forearm, urokinase- and plasmin-like activities are containing sunless tanners: elevated on SC strippings from the cheek, confirming activation of the plasminogen cascade, and (iv) tryptase- • confirmed that the pH is a key parameter in like activity in the SC is also elevated in samples from the formulating these compositions cheek, possibly indicating involvement of mast cells in • proved that PFPE phosphate is a safe and compatible these barrier-compromised body sites or the synthesis of a ingredient to lower the pH novel tryptase-like enzyme by keratinocytes. Although elevation of the activities of urokinase, plasmin, kallikrein • gave some evidence of the critical importance of 5, kallikrein 7 and now a tryptase-like enzyme was thickeners observed on SC derived from skin of clinically normal cheeks, we anticipate even higher activities in skin • suggested a strategy based on multifunctional agents conditions where the epidermal barrier is further impaired. Sunless tanning products containing dihydroxyacetone in combination with a perfluoropolyether phosphate G. Pantini*, R. lngoglia*, F. Brunettat and A. Brunetta t to minimize the ingredients. Influence of PEG-12 Dimethicone addition on stability and formation of emulsions containing liquid crystal F. F. Andrade*, 0. D. H. Santost , W. P. Oliveira* and P. A. Rocha-Filho* *Department of Pharmaceutical Science, Faculty of *Solvay Solexis SpA, Personal Care Products, . Viale Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirao Pre f o, University of Lombardia 20, 1-20021 Bollate, Milan, Italy and t Kalis Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo, Brazil and Department of Srl, Via Zanini 5, 1-31041 Comuda, Treviso, Italy Pharmacy, School of Pharmacy, Federal University ofOuro Giovanni Pantini, Via Teodosio 74, 20131, Milan, Italy. Preto, Ouro Preto, Brazil Tel.: 00 39 02 2615978 e-mail: F. F. Andrade, Department of Pharmaceutical Science, giovanni.pantini@lvirgilio.it Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirao Preto, University of Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo, Brazil. Tel.: 005516- lt is well known that the shelf-life of products containing 36024279 fax: 005516-36024879 e-mail: dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is quite unsatisfactory, and that in feandmd@webmail.fcfrp.usp.br this area the adjustment to an acidic pH is the way usually recommended to improve DHA stability. The adoption of Oil/water emulsions, contammg liquid crystals, were this rule, however, is a challenge for the cosmetic chemist developed employing Andiroba oil, PEG-12 Dimethicone not only because of the risks of skin irritation, but also and Crodafos CES®. It was evaluated the influence of because of the strong limitations in the choice of the acidic silicone surfactants on the emulsions stability and on the agent. It occurs that the use of either hydroxy-acids and formation of liquid crystalline phases and therefore, phosphoric acid/phosphate buffers has the opposite effect physicochemical characteristics, such as rheology and zeta on the one intended. Recently, a perfluoropolyether potential, were evaluated. Emulsions were prepared by the phosphate (PFPE phosphate) was introduced as a new emulsions phase inversion method. All the formulations acidic agent to lower the pH without increasing the skin presented lamellar liquid crystalline phases. The PEG-12 irritation. Starting from a rationale based on this potential, Dimethicone addition did not change microscopically the we investigated sunless tanners containing PFPE phosphate liquid crystalline phases. The emulsions containing silicone and DHA. We monitored the ageing of sunless tanners with demonstrated lower viscosity than those without the