542 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE additive. This is an important feature, as the silicone did not verify that all fonnulations presented negative values change the rheological profile however, the addition of between -39.7 and -70.0 mV. Within this range of values, silicone still can be used as a viscosity controller. The the emulsion physical stability is high (Fig. 10). It was formulations had their viscosity increased 15 and 150 days concluded that the addition of PEG-12 Dimethicone kept after their preparation. This characteristic shows that the the liquid crystalline phase of the emulsion obtained with emulsions have their organization increased along the Crodafos CES®, influencing in a positive way in the system storing time. In the analysis of zeta potential, we could stability. Vol. 29, No. 3, 2007 Review Article B. A. Bernard, L'OREAL Recherche, Clichy, France. Tel.: Increasing quality of life by improving the quality of skin 33 (0)1 47567599 fax: 33 (0)1 47567078 e-mail: in patients with atopic dennatitis bbernard@rd.loreal.com K. Halvarsson and M. Loden The hair follicle is a very active organ with a complex Aco Hud Nordic AB, Research & Development, PO Box structure, which produces a hair fibre at a rate of 0.3 mm a 622, SE-194 26 Upplands Viisby, Sweden day. Accordingly, the hair follicle is highly demanding in Marie Loden, ACO Hud Nordic AB, PO Box 622, SE-194 energy source, as the hair bulb matrix cells are endowed 26 Upplands Viisby, Sweden. Tel.: +46 8 59002951 fax: +46 8 59002980 e-mail: marie. loden@aconordic.com with one of the highest rates of proliferation in the human Atopic dennatitis is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease which usually starts during the first years of life. In patients with the disease, the quality of skin is severely affected, and this is closely linked to a reduced quality of life. An increasing prevalence of the disease has also been observed during recent years, which has been attributed to potential provocation factors in the environment. The environmental influence of the disease is complex, but the role of stratum comeum as a biosensor regulating the response to a variety of insults has been suggested as one crucial factor. Therefore, our daily hygiene and treatment of dryness are necessary measures to improve the quality of life and possibly reduce the frequency of the disease. Soaps as well as moisturizers show important differences in their impact on barrier function. 6-0 glucose linoleate supports in vitro human hair growth and lipid synthesis body. Moreover, recent data have shown the involvement of lipids in hair follicle function. As in vitro-grown hair follicle keeps producing a hair fibre that closely resembles the natural hair fibre, we decided to use this model to investigate the role of a new of glucose linoleate derivative (6-O-linoleyl-o-glucose: 6-O-GL) as a lipid precursor and energy provider. Our results demonstrated that 6-O-GL was (i) quite stable and surprisingly resistant to oxidative degradation, and (ii) readily taken up and metabolized by the hair follicle into various lipids, namely neutral lipids, ceramides and polar lipids. Moreover, it supported hair follicle growth and survival in a glucose- and linoleic-acid free medium. 6-O-GL thus appeared to be a bi-functional nutrient, ensuring both proper fibre quality and production by the hair follicle. A new technique associated with the evaporimetry method for evaluating occlusion P. Vingler*, B. Gautier*, M. Dalkot, R. Rozott, 0. Gaillard*, J. F. Michelet* and B. A. Bernard* J. P. P. Marques, D.S. B. Basso and A. S. Nunes *L'OREAL Recherche, Clichy and tL'OREAL Recherche, Natura lnova�!o e Tecnologia de Produtos Ltda., Rodovia Aulnay-sous-Bois, France Anhanguera, SP, Brazil

542 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE additive. This is an important feature, as the silicone did not verify that all fonnulations presented negative values change the rheological profile however, the addition of between -39.7 and -70.0 mV. Within this range of values, silicone still can be used as a viscosity controller. The the emulsion physical stability is high (Fig. 10). It was formulations had their viscosity increased 15 and 150 days concluded that the addition of PEG-12 Dimethicone kept after their preparation. This characteristic shows that the the liquid crystalline phase of the emulsion obtained with emulsions have their organization increased along the Crodafos CES®, influencing in a positive way in the system storing time. In the analysis of zeta potential, we could stability. Vol. 29, No. 3, 2007 Review Article B. A. Bernard, L'OREAL Recherche, Clichy, France. Tel.: Increasing quality of life by improving the quality of skin 33 (0)1 47567599 fax: 33 (0)1 47567078 e-mail: in patients with atopic dennatitis bbernard@rd.loreal.com K. Halvarsson and M. Loden The hair follicle is a very active organ with a complex Aco Hud Nordic AB, Research & Development, PO Box structure, which produces a hair fibre at a rate of 0.3 mm a 622, SE-194 26 Upplands Viisby, Sweden day. Accordingly, the hair follicle is highly demanding in Marie Loden, ACO Hud Nordic AB, PO Box 622, SE-194 energy source, as the hair bulb matrix cells are endowed 26 Upplands Viisby, Sweden. Tel.: +46 8 59002951 fax: +46 8 59002980 e-mail: marie. loden@aconordic.com with one of the highest rates of proliferation in the human Atopic dennatitis is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease which usually starts during the first years of life. In patients with the disease, the quality of skin is severely affected, and this is closely linked to a reduced quality of life. An increasing prevalence of the disease has also been observed during recent years, which has been attributed to potential provocation factors in the environment. The environmental influence of the disease is complex, but the role of stratum comeum as a biosensor regulating the response to a variety of insults has been suggested as one crucial factor. Therefore, our daily hygiene and treatment of dryness are necessary measures to improve the quality of life and possibly reduce the frequency of the disease. Soaps as well as moisturizers show important differences in their impact on barrier function. 6-0 glucose linoleate supports in vitro human hair growth and lipid synthesis body. Moreover, recent data have shown the involvement of lipids in hair follicle function. As in vitro-grown hair follicle keeps producing a hair fibre that closely resembles the natural hair fibre, we decided to use this model to investigate the role of a new of glucose linoleate derivative (6-O-linoleyl-o-glucose: 6-O-GL) as a lipid precursor and energy provider. Our results demonstrated that 6-O-GL was (i) quite stable and surprisingly resistant to oxidative degradation, and (ii) readily taken up and metabolized by the hair follicle into various lipids, namely neutral lipids, ceramides and polar lipids. Moreover, it supported hair follicle growth and survival in a glucose- and linoleic-acid free medium. 6-O-GL thus appeared to be a bi-functional nutrient, ensuring both proper fibre quality and production by the hair follicle. A new technique associated with the evaporimetry method for evaluating occlusion P. Vingler*, B. Gautier*, M. Dalkot, R. Rozott, 0. Gaillard*, J. F. Michelet* and B. A. Bernard* J. P. P. Marques, D.S. B. Basso and A. S. Nunes *L'OREAL Recherche, Clichy and tL'OREAL Recherche, Natura lnova�!o e Tecnologia de Produtos Ltda., Rodovia Aulnay-sous-Bois, France Anhanguera, SP, Brazil