]. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 539-545 (September/October 2007) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 29, No. 2, 2007* Review Article of physiological functions as cellular differentiation or gene regulation. It has been suggested that deimination plays a Update on peptidylarginine deiminases and deimination in role in many major diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis, skin physiology and severe human diseases multiple sclerosis, Alzheimer's disease and psoriasis. Five M.-C. Mechin*, M. Sebbag*, J. Arnaud*, R. Nac f at*1, C. human genes (PADis), encoding five highly conserved Foulqu t *• V. Adoue*, F. Coudane*, H. Duplan , A.-M. paralogous enzymes (PADl-4 and 6), have been Schmitt , S. Chavanas*, M. Guerrin*, G. Serre* and M. characterized. These genes are clustered in a single locus, Simon* at l p35-36 in man. Only PADl -3 are expressed in human *CNRS-University of Toulouse III, UMR5165, Institut epidermis. PADs seem to be controlled at transcriptional, Federatif de Recherche Claude de Preval, IFR30 translational and activity levels and they present particular (INSERM-CNRS-Universite Paul Sabatier-CentrJ? substrate specificities. In this review, we shall discuss these Hospitalier Universitaire de Toulouse), Toulouse and T main biochemical, genetic and functional aspects of PADs lnstitut de Recherche Pierre Fabre, Toulouse, France together with their pathophysiological implications. Marie-Claire Mechin, UMR5165, Faculte de Medecine, 37 Review Article allees Jules Guesde, F-31073 Toulouse cedex, France. Tel.: +33 561145948 fax: +33 561145938 e-mail: A short historyof sweat gland biology mechin(aludear.cnrs.fr K. Wilke, A. Martin, L. Terstegen and S. S. Biel 'Present address: Epithelial Cell Biology (Skin), Cambridge Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany Research Institute, Lika Shing Centre, Robinson Way, Cambridge CB2 ORE, U.K. Dr Katrin Wilke, Beiersdorf AG, PO Box 550, UnnastraBe 48, D-20245 Hamburg, Germany. Tel.: +49 (0)40 4909 Deimination (or citrullination) is a recently described post- 6436 fax: +49 (0)40 4909 4882 e-mail: translational modification, but its consequences are not yet katrin.wilke@beiersdorf.com well understood. It is catalysed by peptidylarginine deiminases (PADs ). These enzymes transform arginyl The axilla, especially its microflora and axillary sweat residues involved in a peptidyl link into citrullyl residues in glands as well as their secretions, is the main target of a calcium-dependent manner. Several PAD substrates have cosmetic compositions such as deodorants or already been identified like filaggrin and keratins Kl and antiperspirants. There are three types of sweat glands KIO in the epidermis, trichohyalin in hair follicles, but also present in the axillary skin, namely apocrine, eccrine and ubiquitous proteins like histones. PADs act in a large panel apoeccrine sweat glands. Here, we provide an overview of * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 539

540 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE apoeccrine sweat glands. Here, we provide an overview of Profiling of serine protease activities in human stratum the morphological, structural and functional characteristics comeum and detection of a stratum comeum tryptase-like of the different gland types and present techniques that enzyme allow their clear distinction. Moreover, we describe R. Voegeli*, A. V. Rawlingst, S. Doppler*, J. Heilandt different forms of perspiration as physical reactions to and T. Schreier* external and internal stimuli. *Pentapharm Ltd, Engelgasse 109, 4002 Basel, Switzerland, tA VR Consulting Ltd, 26 Shavington Way, Anti-microbial and -inflammatory activity and efficacy of Kingsmead, Northwich, Cheshire CW9 8FH, U.K. and phytosphingosine: an in vitro and in vivo study addressing tHeiland Electronic GmbH, Schulstrasse 8, 35579 Wetzlar, acne vulgaris T. Pavicic*, U. Wollenwebert, M. Farwickt and H. C. Korting**Department of Dermatology and Allergolo � Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich, Germany and Germany R. Voegeli, Pentapharm Ltd, Engelgasse 109, 4002 Basel, Switzerland. Tel.: +41 61 706 4848 fax: +41 61 706 4800 e-mail: rainer. voegeli@.pentapharm.com Degussa AG, Care and Surface Specialities, Goldschmidt The paper was presented at the 24th IFSCC Congress 2006, GmbH, Essen, Germany Osaka, Japan. Tatjana Pavicic, Department of Dermatology and Seasonal variation in stratum comeum (SC) biophysical Allergology, Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich and biological characteristics has been described FrauenlobstraBe 9-11, D-80337 Miinchen, Germany. Tel.: previously. In particular, the winter season has been shown +49 0 89/5160 6117 fax: +49 0 89/5160 6110 E-mail: to affect more severely the properties of facial skin tatjana.pavicic@med.uni-muenchen.de compared with forearm skin. Moreover, when compromised, such as in dry skin conditions, facial SC has Lipids are important constituents of the human epidermis. been shown to contain increased inflammatory cytokines Either free and organized into broad lipid bilayers in the and proteases. Nevertheless, there have been no intercomeocytes spaces, or covalently bound to the comparative studies of the activities and depth activity of comeocyte envelope, they play a crucial role in several proteases in the SC on different body sites and at permeability barrier function and are major contributors to different times of the year. In this study, we examined the cutaneous anti-microbial defense. Free sphingoid bases are distribution of key serine protease activities (kallikrein 5, a recent addition to this family of active lipids, which kallikrein 7, urokinase, plasmin and a tryptase-like enzyme) emerged from studies of breakdown products from in different layers of the SC on the cheek and the forearm ceramides. Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid occurring by analysis of consecutive tape strippings of healthy naturally in the stratum comeum, both in its free form and Caucasian subjects during winter and summer. The protein as a part of the major fraction of ceramides. The content of the tape strippings was quantified by absorption biotechnological production of PS patented by Degussa measurements with a recently developed and novel infrared yields to PS with the correct configuration present in the densitometer SquameScan™ 850A while the SC enzyme skin. So, application of a PS containing formulation leads activities were determined using fluorogenic peptide to its integration into the natural lipid structures of the skin. substrates. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH In acne, different pathogenetic factors contribute to the and skin hydration were higher on the cheek than on the inflammation process, defect in keratinization, increased forearm. In the same way, the activity of the inflammatory­ sebaceous gland activity and increased colonization of related proteases plasmin, urokinase and tryptase was Propionibacterium acnes. The results of in vitro and in vivo approximately five to eight times and the activity of the studies confirm the previous reports on strong anti- desquamatory-related proteases kallikrein 5 and kallikrein 7 microbial effectiveness of skin-identical PS produced by approximately two to four times higher on the cheek than Degussa in vitro and in vivo. In addition, PS shows on the forearm. There were no gender-related differences in excellent clinical results in the context of skin care in acne, these enzyme activities except for the increased kallikrein 7 based on both anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial in the forearm skin of the female subjects in winter. activity. These results demonstrate the potential of PS to Reduced kallikrein 5 was associated with increased SC enhance or complement existing acne therapies acting as an cohesion, as judged by increased protein removal, in active cosmetic ingredient. forearm skin in the winter months of the year although the