J. Cosmet. Sci.! 58, 549-550 (September/October 2007) Abstracts Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Science, "Wiadomosci PTK" Vol. 10, No. 1, 2007* The Use Of Electric Field And Ultrasounds In The the kinetics of penetration in particular skin layers as Enhanced Transepiderrnal Transport well as cumulating effect, susceptibility to skin enzymes activity, the rate of passing into blood system Jacek Arct, Katarzyna Pytkowska and many others. Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland Boron Nitride - The Active,,lnert" With A Velvety Feel The activity of skin care cosmetics is a complex Luigi Rigano 1, Adriana Bonfigli 2, Ralf Damach 3, process. The basis of its action is forming an occlusion Martin Engler 3 layer on the skin surface. This leads to decrease in transepiderrnal water loss (TEWL) following an 1 Rigano Laboratories, 2 ISPE Labroatories, 3 ESK increase in horny layer (stratum corneum) Ceramics GMBH & Co. K moisturisation. As it is known, water concentration gradient in the horny layer is essential for the proper Not so many solid raw materials are used in cosmetics course of biochemical processes in living layers of and those few mainly in make-up products: epidermis, including these ones linked with restoring • Talc barriers inhibiting water loss and hindering permeation • of xenobiotic compounds. Another level of skin care activity is associated with physical and chemical • processes related to action of the actives on stratum • comeum structures, i.e. exfoliating activity of • hydroxyacids. Inhibitors of radical reactions (not very • precisely called anti-oxidants) or UV filters can be • included into the same group. The third scope of the • activity concerns the compounds reaching the viable epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue. In this case, • they act directly on specific biological receptors - • enzymatic or cellular ones. Most substances described • as the active compounds of cosmetics belong to this • group, i.e.: retinol and its derivatives, arbutin, bisabolol, glycyrrhizinic acid and others. In case of majority of • substances of physico-chemical activity and, • particularly, all compounds capable of binding with receptors in viable layers - the factor deciding of • compound's activity is its bioavailability. This term • includes both, capability of reaching the action area and • Pigments Sericite Kaolin Mica Precipitated Calcium Carbonate Light Magnesi_um Carbonate Pyrogenic silica Di-calcium and Mono-calcium phosphate Calcium stearate Alumina Pearls (Titanium dioxide and other pigments on Mica Bismute oxychloride Nylon Polymethylmethacrylate Zinc oxide Calamine * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 549

550 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Reasons are very simple: the solid materials behaviour strictly depends on the combination of its surface properties, its crystalline lattice characteristics (bulk properties) and of the chemical nature of such a substance, while for traditional non-solid cosmetic raw materials only the last one is important. Originally published in SOFW-Joumal 133 (3) 2007 Skin Irritation During Use OfHomecare Products properties. Manufacturers of homecare products try to counteract the possibility of the undesired side-effects by different means so that the formulations were milder to the skin. Thus, mild surfactants of both good properties in use as well as low irritant potential are used. For example, a blend of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate has lower irritant potential than the pure SLS solution. Moreover, refatting agents or proteins hydrolysates are added to those preparations more and more often. The ingredients assist skin barrier renewal and protect the skin from undesired activity of surfactants. Karolina Lelen 1 , Katarzyna Pytkowska 1 • Slawomir Originally presented on the CHI Personal Care & Majewski 1 , Jacek Arct 1•2 Homecare Ingredients Exhibition & Conference 2006, Warsaw-Poland, October 25-26, 2006 1 Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland 2 Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Poland Homecare products are commonly used in most of the households. Their formulations contain many raw materials which should, on the one hand, remove effectively all sorts of dirt and on the other - should not have a harmful effect on the skin or in any other way influence adversely the human organism. It has been proved that the substances present in household products can interfere the biochemical balance and barrier capacity of skin, thus contribute to skin irritations and allergies. What is more, the pH value of the formulation is a factor that can influence this barrier functioning as well. The main ingredients of homecare products are surfactants, which can exhibit high irritant potential. They affect the skin in a multidirectional way. They solubilise and wash out the lipids of the stratum comeum, they can also penetrate into the intercellular cement structures and change its physico-chemical Polish Legal Regulations On Advertising Of Cosmetics Joanna Bulinska, Jacek Arct, Katarzyna Pytkowska Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland Before getting into to the core subject of this paper it is necessary to get through general regulations on advertising in Poland. All the regulations present in Poland at the moment divide into two categories, primarily, legal regulations, secondary selfregulations of the advertising market. The most important from the first group is bill issued on 16th April 1993 'On dealing against unfair competition'. In the second group the most comprehensive regulation is 'Code on plain dealing in advertising', prepared by International Association of Advertising in Poland.