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J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.6, 553–564 (November/December 2024)
*Address all correspondence to Lilian Mussi, lilian.mussi@chemyunion.com
Effects of Prebiotic Micellar Solution on Makeup Removal
and Skin Microbiome Balance
LILIAN MUSSI, WAGNER VIDAL MAGALHÃES, FLÁVIO BUENO DE CAMARGO JR.
AND GIOVANA PADOVANI
Laboratory of Research, Development &Innovation, Chemyunion Ltda, Brazil (L.M, W.V.M., F.B.C.J, G.P)
Accepted for publication August 19, 2024.
Synopsis
Makeup can play a crucial role in the self-esteem and social image of women however, its improper removal
can have negative effects on skin health. This research assessed the effectiveness of a prebiotic aqueous micellar
solution, which includes inulin and xylitol, in eliminating makeup and its influence on the skin microbiome. A
group of 15 volunteers underwent the application of makeup followed by its removal using the tested solution.
The findings revealed a successful elimination of up to 100% of the applied products without causing harm to
the skin barrier. Furthermore, laboratory tests demonstrated that the solution notably increased the presence
of Staphylococcus epidermidis in the skin, a beneficial bacterium, while decreasing the presence of Staphylococcus
aureus, a common pathogen. Additionally, the solution triggered the production of cathelicidin, an essential
antimicrobial peptide for skin protection. These results indicate that the prebiotic aqueous micellar solution
not only effectively eliminates makeup, but it also contributes to maintaining the equilibrium of the skin
microbiome, thereby enhancing skin health.
INTRODUCTION
Women’s skillful use of makeup to highlight or downplay certain facial features can lead
to beneficial outcomes in various contexts.1 The relationship between makeup use and
self-esteem has been documented in the literature with certain studies demonstrating a
positive association between the two.2,3 In professional environments, makeup can enhance
perceptions of women’s leadership qualities during job applications and help create positive
impressions in the workplace.4,5 Tran and colleagues (2020) explored the implications of
makeup use in digital influencers with regard to mood regulation and self-esteem.6
Despite its evident role in the social image of women, the use of makeup brings with it
some challenges with its removal. Removing makeup is regarded as the initial step in
a skincare routine. Makeup, after serving its purpose, becomes an impurity that ideally
should be thoroughly removed to optimize the effectiveness of subsequent skincare
products. However, the introduction of silicone resins has greatly enhanced the long-lasting

554 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
effect of makeup, making its efficient removal challenging with common surfactant-based
cleansers like soaps or oil-based cleansers.7
An effective alternative for skin cleansing consists of micellar waters. Micellar waters are
aqueous solutions containing surfactant molecules that form micelles, which are capable
of absorbing dirt and oil from the skin. These micelles consist of hydrophobic tails and
hydrophilic heads. When applied to the skin, the hydrophobic tails bind to oils and
impurities while the hydrophilic heads remain in the water, which allow the micelles to
encapsulate and lift away dirt and makeup effectively.8
Micellar waters are particularly gentle and suitable for sensitive skin because they clean
without the need for harsh scrubbing or rinsing. This makes them an ideal choice for those
with delicate skin conditions. Moreover, the nonionic surfactants used in some micellar
waters, such as glycerol esters, are designed to mimic the skin’s natural lipids, which ensure
a mild cleansing action that maintains the skin’s barrier without causing irritation.9
In addition to concerns about preserving the skin barrier, recent years have seen increased
attention on the impact of cosmetic products, particularly skin cleansers, on the skin
microbiota.10–12 Conventional soaps, for instance, can potentially disrupt the natural
microflora of the skin, thus resulting in imbalances within the microbiome.13 In addition
to the importance of developing makeup removal solutions that are microbiome-safe,
the adoption of strategies that adequately modulate the microbiome (such as the use of
prebiotics) has shown promise in restoring microbial balance and improving skin health.14
Prebiotic ingredients can exert positive effects on the host’s health by selectively stimulating
the growth of specific beneficial microbes.15
In this work, the effectiveness of a prebiotic aqueous micellar solution was tested specifically
for its ability to balance the skin’s microbiome while cleansing and removing makeup
without damaging the skin barrier.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
PREBIOTIC AQUEOUS MICELLAR SOLUTION
A commercially available bulk solution (Bio-Balance Water, Chemyunion Ltda., Sorocaba,
SP, Brazil) was tested for its efficacy in removing makeup and its impact on the facial skin
microbiome. This bulk solution contains inulin (medium concentration 3.0% w/w) and
xylitol (medium concentration 1.5% w/w) as prebiotic ingredients.
MAKEUP REMOVAL CAPACITY CLINICAL TEST
The study included 15 female volunteers, aged between 18 and 50, to whom commercially
available foundation (Base Liquida Vult HD Alta Cobertura – color 15, Vult, Mogi das
Cruzes, SP, Brazil), blush (Blush Vult – color 12, Vult, Mogi das Cruzes, SP, Brazil),
eyeshadow (Sombra Uno Vult MA01, Vult, Mogi das Cruzes, SP, Brazil), mascara (Máscara
para Cílios Vult 5UP! – black, Vult, Mogi das Cruzes, SP, Brazil), and lipstick (Batom Vult
01 Cereja Cremoso, Vult, Mogi das Cruzes, SP, Brazil) were applied, as shown in Figure 1.
Front and side images were recorded with Visia® (Canfield Scientific, Inc., Parsippany, NJ,
USA) equipment before makeup application (T0), after makeup application (T
makeup ),and