614 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
for 1 hour. After a washing step, peroxidase-conjugated antibody against IL-6, IL1-RA
or hyaluronic acid were added. Plates were incubated at room temperature for 1 hour.
Samples were then incubated for 15 minutes at room temperature with a substrate solution
(containing H
2 O
2 ).Reaction was stopped and absorbance at 450 nm was measured using
a microplate reader.
HUMAN SEBOCYTES
Human sebocytes obtained with the reprogramming of induced pluripotent stem cell
technology (iPS) were provided by Phenocell (Grasse, France). Cells were routinely cultured
with 5% CO
2 at 37°C and 90% humidity atmosphere in regular Phenocult-SEB medium
(Phenocell, Grasse, France). Media were renewed every 48–72 hours to allow cell growth.
For experiments, cells were seeded at 2 × 104 cells/cm² into Phenocult-SEB medium until
confluency was reached. For IL-6 evaluations, cells were treated with pKTSKS peptide
(1–6 ppm) or 0.1% DMSO for 48 hours and with living planktonic C. acnes cells (300
bacteria: 1 sebocyte) for the last 24 hours. Then, cell culture media were collected, and
IL-6 quantification was performed as described in the keratinocyte section. Cell viability
was evaluated using nucleus labeling with Hoechst 33258 method (Sigma Aldrich,
Germany).24
HUMAN FIBROBLASTS ASSAYS
Human fibroblasts (NHF) from human foreskin were provided by CellnTechTM
(Switzerland). For routine maintenance, cells were seeded in 175 cm2 flask (Falcon™, New
York, USA) in DMEM, 10% FBS, 100 U/mL penicillin, 100 µg/mL streptomycin, 1µg/
mL fungizone, 4 mM L-glutamine, and 1mm sodium pyruvate (all Gibco®, Thermo
Fisher Scientific™, Illkirch-Graffenstaden, France). Cultures were incubated at 37°C in a
humidified atmosphere containing 5% CO
2 .The medium was renewed every 48 hours to
allow cell growth. NHF were used between passage 5 and 11.
For experiments, NHF cultures were seeded at a density of 2 × 104 cells/cm² in 24 wells cell
culture plates (Falcon™, New York, USA). Then, they were treated with various dosages of
peptide or its solvent (DMSO, 0.1% v:v, Merck) for 3 days in fresh medium. Cell culture
media were collected for ELISA studies and cell number was estimated using a Hoescht
33258 staining allowing the quantity of dermal proteins to be weighted to the number of
viable cells.
Collagen-I production was quantified in the culture media by measuring the carboxy-
terminal pro-peptide of procollagen type I (PIP) using the Takara MK101 assay. Fibronectin
production was measured using Takara MK115 kit. Samples were incubated in ELISA
plates coated with anti-PIP or anti-fibronectin antibody for 1 hour at 37°C, followed by
washing and incubation with peroxidase-conjugated antibody targeting the protein of
interest. The substrate solution (containing H
2 O
2 )was then added, and after 15 minutes
at room temperature, the reaction was stopped, and absorbance was measured at 450 nm.
For collagen-IV, R&D Systems LXSAHM-01 assays kit was used. Samples or standards
were incubated with the magnetic beads coated with an anti-collagen IV antibody, for
2 hours at room temperature under agitation. After washing, the beads were incubated with
615 Pentapeptide to Control Acne
biotin-conjugated anti-collagen-IV antibody for 1 hour, followed by the substrate solution
(containing streptavidin-phycoerythrin conjugate) for 15 minutes at room temperature. The
reaction was then stopped, and absorbance was measured at 450 nm using a microplate
reader.
EQUIVALENT SKIN MODEL
Human Living Skin Equivalents (LSE) were produced in-house (adapted of method described
by Asselineau et al.25). Briefly, for equivalent-dermis, NHF were seeded into collagen-I
matrix (Jacques Boy, France) in 6-well plate inserts (Falcon™, New York, USA) and kept
emerged for 48 hours to allow dermal contraction. Human keratinocytes (NHK, CellnTec)
were seeded on top of the equivalent dermis. Models were cultivated for 7 days in immersion
media, followed by 7 days of air-liquid interphase to obtain a stratified epidermis. 9 ppm of
pKTSKS or its solvent (0.1% DMSO) were applied on top of the epidermis. After 48 hours
of treatment, LSE were embedded in freezing media (Leica, UK) and snap-frozen in liquid
nitrogen. 5–7 µm sections were prepared using a cryostat (CM15105, Leica, Germany). LSE
histology was evaluated by H&E (Sigma Aldrich, Germany) staining. Thickness of stratum
corneum was quantified on pictures captured under the microscope (Eclipse TI) using NIS
Element Software (both Nikon, Japan).
CLINICAL TRIALS
Two single-blind studies were performed on volunteers with acne-prone skin and acne scars.
The first study conducted on a panel of 30 volunteers made of 7 men and 23 women aged
between 18–39 years old with a mean age of 24 years old and a phototype III, was aimed
to measure pKTSKS effects on C. acnes and S. epidermidis populations. The second study
dedicated to topographic measurements was included a panel of 18 volunteers comprising
one man and 17 women aged from 20–58 years old with a mean age of 32, phototype II–IV
to evaluate the peptide’s effects on skin texture and scar improvement. Creams containing
12 ppm pKTSKS or placebo were formulated (see the formula in Figure 1). Volunteers
applied placebo on one cheek and pKTSKS-cream on the other, twice a day for up to 2
months. To study effects on C. acnes and S. epidermidis populations, RT-qPCR (real time
quantitative polymer chain reaction) analysis was performed on skin microbiota sampled
from 30 volunteers, before and after 1 month treatment. In the topographic variation
study, acquisitions were taken on 18 volunteers before and after 2 months treatment (this
relatively low number of volunteers was due to many dropouts linked to the Covid-19
pandemic). An Antera3D camera was used for analysis of various topographic parameters
such as inflammatory marks, pockmark, and skin roughness.
STATISTICS
ANOVA was used to determine whether there was any significant difference between
the means of two or more independent groups. Difference between two means with
similar variances was performed with Student’s t-test. A p-value p 0.05 or p 0.01 was
considered statistically significant.
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