561 Prebiotic Micellar Solution
the test formula promoted a statistically significant increase (p 0.01) in cathelicidin
synthesis, reaching up to 98% compared to the control group. These results were obtained
through immunofluorescence analysis on human skin explants after 72 hours of incubation
with the test formula.
Analyzing immunofluorescence images reveal more intense coloring in samples treated with
the prebiotic aqueous micellar solution, which indicates increased cathelicidin production.
This increase is relevant as cathelicidin is a fundamental antimicrobial peptide in the
skin’s defense against pathogens. The influence of cleansers on the skin extends beyond the
microbiome to include effects on the composition of antimicrobial peptides. Specifically,
cleansing can alter the levels of the antimicrobial peptide LL-37 on the skin surface.41
Figure 4. Evaluation by immunofluorescence anticathelicidin (green) and counterstaining with DAPI (blue,
cell nuclei marker). The figure shows microscope images at 40× magnification. Histological sections of 10 µm
in fragments of human skin (ex vivo) incubated in culture medium (basal control) or treated with the product
prebiotic aqueous micellar solution for 72 hours.
Figure 5. Quantification of the representative images of cathelicidin synthesis in human skin fragments
incubated with the product prebiotic aqueous micellar solution for 72 hours in comparison to control (basal
control) group. The mean pixel intensity of the green channel was measured for each image using the ImageJ®
software (National Institute of Health, Bethesda, MD, USA), with results expressed in units of square pixels.
The data were analyzed statistically using ANOVA followed by Dunnett’s post-hoc test and were considered
significant when p 0.05 (95%).

562 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
The host skin’s defense mechanisms are facilitated by a “chemical barrier” composed
of various defense molecules produced by epithelial cells. These molecules are either
consistently present or produced in response to external stimuli in different areas of the
epidermis including antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), proteases, and chemokines, such as
cytokines. These elements can directly hinder microbial growth or act as triggers and
facilitators of both innate and adaptive immune reactions.42
AMPs are typically small, amphipathic, and positively charged molecules that work by
disrupting microbial membranes and regulating cellular inflammatory processes. The
synthesis of AMPs by epithelial cells offers an additional layer of protection for immune
defense. Various families of AMPs have been investigated these include cathelicidins and
defensins. While over 30 cathelicidins have been identified in mammals, only LL-37 is
present in humans.42
Cathelicidins are activated in keratinocytes during inflammation34 and are the only
AMPs that act as defensive and signaling molecules. There are two separate pathways
through which cathelicidins operate: they exert direct antimicrobial properties against a
broad spectrum of bacteria, fungi, and viruses, and they also trigger a sequence of cellular
reactions. These reactions include the release of cytokines, prostaglandins (PGD2) during
inflammation, chemokines, and adhesion molecules. Additionally, cathelicidins are crucial
for wound healing and tissue regeneration, which aid in skin re-epithelialization and wound
neovascularization.43
The results presented in this study indicate that the prebiotic aqueous micellar solution was
effective in removing various types of makeup without compromising the skin microbiome.
On the contrary, the solution increased the levels of commensal populations and reduced
the population of pathogenic bacteria. The formulation containing prebiotic agents may at
least partially explain the observed results.
CONCLUSION
A prebiotic micellar solution has shown efficacy in removing makeup and promoting skin
microbiome balance. By enhancing the presence of S epidermidis while decreasing S aureus
levels, this solution not only cleanses the skin but also provides protection against harmful
pathogens, all while preserving the beneficial microbiota. The incorporation of prebiotics
like inulin and xylitol can enhance the skin barrier, as evidenced by the upregulation
of cathelicidin expression. These findings underscore the potential of prebiotic micellar
solutions as a secure and efficient option for makeup removal, which offer additional
advantages for skin well-being.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This work was financed by Chemyunion Ltda.
REFERENCES
(1) Korichi R, Pelle-de-Queral D, Gazano G, Aubert A. Why women use makeup: implication of
psychological traits in makeup functions. J Cosmet Sci. 2008 59(2):127–137.