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J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.6, 532–535 (November/December 2024)
Foreword to the Skin Microbiome Special Issue of the Journal
of Cosmetic Science Celebrating its 75th Anniversary
DR. PAUL LAWRENCE
Associate Technical Editor, Journal of Cosmetic Science
Executive Director of Bioscience Research, Discovery, and Scientific Communications at Biocogent, LLC
In honor of the 75th anniversary of the Journal of Cosmetic Science, multiple special issues have
been organized, with each focusing on a seminal research topic in cosmetic science. One of
the most active areas of research with a growing impact on skin health is the investigation
of the human microbiome, particularly those microorganisms uniquely associated with
the skin. The discoveries yielded from these endeavors have been applied to the design,
development, and launch of multiple skincare products described as microbiome modulators.
These bio-active materials can be classified by the strategy employed to leverage benefits
to skin health including: prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotics, synbiotics, and parabiotics. If
distilled down to their basics, these approaches attempt to bolster the growth of beneficial
microbes and the restorative molecules they produce, while stymying the expansion of
detrimental, potentially pathogenic ones in an effort to coordinate their levels in such a way
as to strengthen the skin barrier and its biological activities.
The general description above best fits “prebiotics,” which constitute any substance that can
affect changes in the growth of skin-resident microbes to improve skin health. The term
“probiotic” refers to the application of a live microorganism to the skin, that is intended to
gain a foothold and begin growing as its presence and physiology lend to beneficial health
outcomes. “Synbiotics” represent a combination strategy of both prebiotics and probiotics,
where the live microbes are topically applied in a mixture with prebiotic materials to
boost its chances of flourishing on the skin. A more recent approach involves harvesting
the molecules from the microbes that provide positive impacts and applying them in lieu
of trying to coax the growth of helpful organisms, what are now known as “postbiotics.”
Finally, a more recent term, “parabiotics,” refers to the application of microbes that were
once living but are now ruptured whose lysates appear to provide benefits similar to those
of live probiotics.
Some notable examples of microbiome modulatory efforts include attempts to modify the
growth levels of skin resident bacterial species Cutibacterium acnes, an organism associated
with the pathogenesis of the skin disease acne vulgaris or “blemished skin” that can be
characterized by excessive sebum production, erythema, and comedone formation among
other symptoms. Although the precise manner by which C. acnes contributes to the
development of blemished skin has yet to be fully delineated, there has been much evidence
amassed of its correlative role. Many materials have been developed that attempt to
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diminish the expansion of potentially acneic strains of the bacteria to ameliorate blemished
skin. Similarly, Staphylococcus aureus is another bacterial species identified on human skin
that has been correlated with many skin conditions, particularly atopic dermatitis where its
population size is enhanced in the associated skin lesions. In this instance, many groups have
tried to decrease S. aureus in the affected areas of the skin with the simultaneous bolstering
of S. epidermidis growth—a related bacterial species with known positive impacts on the
skin. The mode of action of active ingredients intended for such microbiome modulatory
efforts can be quite varied.
These developments have also led to a rise in new marketing terminology and phrases such as
“balancing the microbiome,” “improved microbial diversity,” and “microbiome restoration.”
Perhaps, the most popular moniker that brands currently desire to have affixed to their
product label is “microbiome friendly.” With the latter phrase, manufacturers within the
cosmetic care community have endeavored to demonstrate that their products do not in any
way adulterate and disrupt the natural microbiome composition on the skin of consumers.
As some of the manuscripts in this special issue will articulate, this represents a difficult
task given the full scope of the microorganisms present on the skin has not been fully
elucidated.
For this special issue, recent discoveries and insights pertaining to the influence of the skin
microbiome are presented by a variety of scientific experts in the field. The authors delve
into relevant and developing topics of how the microbiota of the skin can influence aging
and multiple skin conditions. Further, the bidirectional gut-skin axis is investigated while
others offer potential solutions through microbiome modulatory interventions.
First, Lawrence et al. describe how bacteriophages, naturally occurring predators of bacteria,
can be utilized in a species-specific manner to offer precision microbiome modulation. This
represents a technology that dates back prior to the advent of antibiotics and the modern
scourge of bacteria resistant to antimicrobial compounds. By exclusively targeting a single
species or strain of bacteria for diminishment, this approach does not impose collateral
damage on bystander microbes that are potentially conferring beneficial effects to the
skin. Arguably, this might represent one of the most “microbiome friendly” technologies
available to the cosmetic care community. In their article, the authors demonstrate the
utility of this approach to diminish the population size of C. acnes on blemished skin with
measurable downstream amelioration of symptoms associated with this skin condition.
Embracing the theme of “microbiome friendly,” Mussi et al. introduce a new platform
for gentle removal of makeup that maintains a balanced, healthy skin microbiota. The
removal of makeup is the necessary end point for an individual’s daily beauty regimen.
Unfortunately, most makeup removal cleaners use harsh materials that can wreak havoc
with the beneficial and commensal microorganisms normally present on the skin. Such
disruptions where populations of healthy microbes are decreased while more pernicious
varieties potentially obtain a foothold can culminate in deleterious skin conditions. With
a gentler makeup removal formula that is supportive of beneficial members of the skin
microbiota, thus functioning as a prebiotic solution will allow persons to continue their
beauty routine without compromising the health of their skin. This important study
demonstrates that efforts to design, develop, and launch products that are favorable to the
skin microbiome extend to beauty care.
Roso et al. present an intriguing new platform to better characterize cosmetic care
ingredients that are “friendly” and non-disruptive to the important, key members of the
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