598
J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.6, 598–609 (November/December 2024)
*Address all correspondence to Morgan Drohan, mdrohan@activeconceptsllc.com
From Lab to Label: Translating Skin Microbiome Innovations
for Consumer Clarity
MORGAN DROHAN, DANIEL SHILL, MONICA BELTRAN AND DURANT SCHOLZ
Active Concepts, LLC, Lincolnton, North Carolina, USA (M.D., D.S., M.B., D.S.)
Accepted for publication October 21, 2024.
Synopsis
While the exploration of the skin microbiome is still in the initial stages, we are learning that modulating
the skin’s microbiome shows significant promise for enhancing skin’s immune functions. However, truly
innovative science can only go so far if the information is not communicated in a compelling way. Research
and scientific breakthroughs are crucial to understanding our skin’s ecosystem, but without effective
communication from brands, that knowledge remains inaccessible and underutilized. Currently, brands
have only claimed “microbiome friendly” on finished products, but does that provide enough substance to
resonate with consumers? To effectively bridge the gap between scientific innovation and consumer clarity,
it is imperative to design a standardized framework for terminology and testing in the field of the skin
microbiome. How can brands communicate the importance of their product through precise and standardized
language, ensuring that the science behind these claims is robust and trustworthy?
INTRODUCTION
The first question that needs to be addressed is: Why the craze around the skin microbiome?
Two key demographics are driving this surge of interest. First, research scientists are
captivated by the skin’s microbiome potential. As a relatively new area of research, this
field promises to revolutionize skin health practices for decades to come, sparking the
curiosity that defines true innovative scientists. On the other hand, brands in the personal
care industry are keen to capitalize on this trend, inspired by the significant expansion of
microbiome-related products seen in markets such as dairy, nutrition, and beverages. With
the market now brimming with microbiome innovations, these personal care brands are
eager to join the wave. This manuscript aims to bridge the gap between these two distinct
groups, uniting their shared fascination at the intersection of microbiome research.
The start of the story builds upon groundbreaking research related to the gut’s microbiome.
The studies surrounding the gut microbiota have not only inspired but catalyzed further
exploration into the skin’s microbiome. Similar to the skin, the gut harbors a complex
ecosystem of viruses, bacteria, fungi, archaea, and occasionally protists that play a
fundamental role in metabolic functions and overall immunity. The relationship between
599 SKIN MICROBIOME INNOVATIONS
gut flora and the host is complex, and this evolving field of study continues to uncover
new insights.1
Many factors affect the state of the gut microbiome including age, diet, genetics, antibiotic
treatments, and so on. However, a balance in the gut’s ecosystem is crucial for maintaining
the health and effectiveness of necessary bodily functions. When the host-microbe
relationship is disturbed, the microbiota deviates from its homeostatic state, causing
symptoms such as inflammatory bowel disease, bloating, and indigestion. Because of how
common these gastrointestinal issues have become, there has been a growing interest in
taking probiotic supplements. Probiotics are described as live microorganisms that, when
consumed in sufficient quantities, provide health benefits to the host. Benefits of taking
probiotic supplements include boosting the immune system, regulating the microbiota,
lowering the risk of certain diseases, and enhancing the bioavailability of nutrient uptake.
While the exact way probiotics work is not yet completely understood, some proposed
mechanisms include stimulating immunomodulatory cells, producing antimicrobial
substances that fight off pathogens, and altering gut pH.2
What is interesting about the gut microbiome space is that, while research is still
ongoing, it is completely resonating with consumers. The pursuit of holistic self-care and
dietary wellness is surging. Consumers are now incorporating natural supplements into
their everyday diet with the promise of reducing digestive discomfort. How is it that the
supplement industry effectively communicates the gut microbiome to the consumer, while
there remains a lack of clarity and understanding regarding the skin microbiome? Perhaps
connecting the two could be a start to the solution.
THAT GUT FEELING
As previously stated, the relationship between the gut flora and the host is complex, and
numerous studies suggest that the gut microbiome can influence nearby organs, including
the skin, which is the largest organ of the human body. This topic has coined the term
“skin-gut axis,” describing the intricate communication between the skin and the gut.3
When there is an imbalance in the gut’s microbiota, also known as intestinal dysbiosis, it is
possible that the pathogenic metabolites can access blood circulation and gather in the skin.
The accumulation of these microbes can cause an impairment in epidermal differentiation
and skin barrier integrity.3 Additionally, short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) such as butyrate,
acetate, and propionate are produced by bacteria found in the intestine through the
fermentation process of undigested polysaccharides. While these SCFAs improve epithelial
barrier function and reduce permeability of the intestinal barrier, the amount of SCFAs
that then enter the bloodstream vary based on the rate of microbial fermentation, extent
of colon absorption, and fiber intake. These gut-derived compounds have the potential to
interact negatively with the skin by directly altering the skin’s commensal bacteria.3
The “skin-gut axis” represents a bidirectional relationship where the gut’s environment
impacts the skin and vice versa. As research into the gut microbiome expands, it naturally
extends to exploring the skin microbiome, highlighting the interconnectedness of these
two systems. Based on the conclusion that the gut microbiome can be positively influenced
by external factors, such as taking probiotic supplements, would that mean the same for
the skin? When the skin’s microbiota leaves homeostasis, unpleasant conditions occur.
Acne vulgaris is associated with Cutibacterium acnes strains, psoriasis is associated with
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