Journal of Cosmetic Science
The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Volume 75 No. 6 |November/December 2024
ORIGINAL ARTICLES
Foreword to the Skin Microbiome Special Issue of the Journal of Cosmetic Science Celebrating its
75th Anniversary
Dr. Paul Lawrence |pp. 532–535
Reviving a More Than Century-Old Technology for Modern Skincare
Paul Lawrence, Brianna Scacchi, Kimberly Dew and Joseph Ceccoli |pp. 536–552
Effects of Prebiotic Micellar Solution on Makeup Removal and Skin Microbiome Balance
Lilian Mussi, Wagner Vidal Magalhāes, Flávio Bueno De Camargo Jr. and Giovana Padovani |pp. 553–564
An Innovative Model Based on Wild Type Bacteria Co-Culture to Identify Cosmetic Ingredients
That Respect the Skin Microbiota
Alicia Roso, Sophie Pecastaings, Sophie Cambos, Richard Martin, Laura Bauchet, Benoît Roubinet, Ludovic
Landemarre and Christine Garcia |pp. 565–580
First-Time Use of a Droplet-Based Microfluidic Method to Highlight Specificities of Microbiota
Communities From Sensitive Skin
Manon Gault, Sabrina Leoty-Okombi, Delphine Rival and Valérie André |pp. 581–597
From Lab to Label: Translating Skin Microbiome Innovations for Consumer Clarity
Morgan Drohan, Daniel Shill, Monica Beltran and Durant Scholz |pp. 598–609
A Pentapeptide to Control Cutibacterium Acnes Growth and Activity
Pascaline Criton, Philippe Mondon, Alba Cico, Camille Silou, Carole Le Bachelier, Aurelien Pitois, Pauline
Diaz, Oliver Peschard, Richard Leroux and Caroline Ringenbach |pp. 610–625
REVIEW ARTICLES
Exploring the Connections between Skin Microbiome and Aging: A Review
Allison Garlet |pp. 626–632
The Bidirectional Gut-Skin Axis: Emerging Evidence and Potential Skin Health Implications
Annabelle Schaefer, Ayanna Luthra, Mathilde Tardif, Albert Dashi and Oliver Worsley |pp. 633–659

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J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.6, 532–535 (November/December 2024)
Foreword to the Skin Microbiome Special Issue of the Journal
of Cosmetic Science Celebrating its 75th Anniversary
DR. PAUL LAWRENCE
Associate Technical Editor, Journal of Cosmetic Science
Executive Director of Bioscience Research, Discovery, and Scientific Communications at Biocogent, LLC
In honor of the 75th anniversary of the Journal of Cosmetic Science, multiple special issues have
been organized, with each focusing on a seminal research topic in cosmetic science. One of
the most active areas of research with a growing impact on skin health is the investigation
of the human microbiome, particularly those microorganisms uniquely associated with
the skin. The discoveries yielded from these endeavors have been applied to the design,
development, and launch of multiple skincare products described as microbiome modulators.
These bio-active materials can be classified by the strategy employed to leverage benefits
to skin health including: prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotics, synbiotics, and parabiotics. If
distilled down to their basics, these approaches attempt to bolster the growth of beneficial
microbes and the restorative molecules they produce, while stymying the expansion of
detrimental, potentially pathogenic ones in an effort to coordinate their levels in such a way
as to strengthen the skin barrier and its biological activities.
The general description above best fits “prebiotics,” which constitute any substance that can
affect changes in the growth of skin-resident microbes to improve skin health. The term
“probiotic” refers to the application of a live microorganism to the skin, that is intended to
gain a foothold and begin growing as its presence and physiology lend to beneficial health
outcomes. “Synbiotics” represent a combination strategy of both prebiotics and probiotics,
where the live microbes are topically applied in a mixture with prebiotic materials to
boost its chances of flourishing on the skin. A more recent approach involves harvesting
the molecules from the microbes that provide positive impacts and applying them in lieu
of trying to coax the growth of helpful organisms, what are now known as “postbiotics.”
Finally, a more recent term, “parabiotics,” refers to the application of microbes that were
once living but are now ruptured whose lysates appear to provide benefits similar to those
of live probiotics.
Some notable examples of microbiome modulatory efforts include attempts to modify the
growth levels of skin resident bacterial species Cutibacterium acnes, an organism associated
with the pathogenesis of the skin disease acne vulgaris or “blemished skin” that can be
characterized by excessive sebum production, erythema, and comedone formation among
other symptoms. Although the precise manner by which C. acnes contributes to the
development of blemished skin has yet to be fully delineated, there has been much evidence
amassed of its correlative role. Many materials have been developed that attempt to