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J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.6, 610–625 (November/December 2024)
*Address all correspondence to Pascaline criton, pascaline.criton@sederma.fr.
A Pentapeptide to Control Cutibacterium Acnes Growth and
Activity
PASCALINE CRITON, PHILIPPE MONDON, ALBA CICO, CAMILLE SILOU,
CAROLE LE BACHELIER, AURELIEN PITOIS, PAULINE DIAZ, OLIVIER PESCHARD,
RICHARD LEROUX AND CAROLINE RINGENBACH
Sederma, Le Perray-en-Yvelines, France (P.C., P.M., A.C., C.S., C.B., A.P., P.D., O.P., R.L., C.R.)
Accepted for publication October 21, 2024.
Synopsis
Human-associated microbial communities have gained significant interest in both medical and cosmetic
fields. Understanding microbiota function and interactions has advanced considerably. Dysbiosis of commensal
microbiota is linked to skin disorders like psoriasis, dandruff, atopic dermatitis, and acne. Cosmetic actives
can reduce acne lesions’ negative aspects by acting upstream or downstream of their appearance. Peptides
are widely used to moderate wrinkles, spots, and improve skin barrier function. We identified a small
multifunctional peptide, palmitoyl-Lysyl-Threonyl-Seryl-Lysyl-Serine (pKTSKS) that inhibits Cutibacterium
acnes (C. acnes) growth both in-vitro and in-vivo without impacting Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis).
pKTSKS inhibits C. acnes biofilms adhesion by 99 %and biofilm formation by 98 %.Reconstructed skin
models treated with pKTSKS have thicker outermost corneal skin layer (+186 %).Hyaluronic acid production
in keratinocytes was increased by 62 %.These data suggest that pKTSKS reinforces epidermal barrier and
skin moisture functions, both essential to a healthy skin. Additionally, pKTSKS reduces proinflammatory
mediator release, IL-1Ra production in keratinocytes co-cultured with C. acnes is increased by 283 %.In
fibroblasts, pKTSKS induces synthesis of collagen-I (+184 %)collagen -IV (+98 %)and fibronectin (+67 %).
In clinical studies pKTSKS reduced volume of inflammatory marks (-39.2 %),volume of pockmarks (-23 %)
and skin roughness (-8.1 %),resulting in smoother skin with improved appearance of inflammatory acne
lesions. This peptide offers a promising strategy to moderate the undesirable and psychologically detrimental
aspects of acne scarring.
INTRODUCTION
Skin and its microbial flora, also known as microbiota, form an ecosystem. Depending on
body site, skin microbiota hosts up to 1 million bacteria per cm². Skin microbiota also hosts
other microorganisms including fungi, archaea, viruses, and protists. Skin microbiota is
acquired during and after birth, and quickly evolves during the early months of life. While
the microbiota of people from the same family or professional group are notably similar,
every individual’s microbiota displays site-to-site variability. For instance, microbiota of the
armpits, a humid and warm zone, differs from the drier zones like the arms and legs, or of