210 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 1. The cuticle of both blond and black hair should be protected from the UV-A and UV-B ranges of sunlight. 2. The cortical proteins in low-pigmented hair should also be protected by UV- absorbing substances. 3. Melanin and lipids in low-pigmented human hair are mainly attacked by VIS. However, according to the current developments in research, a protection of this hair from this range of radiation is only possible by VIS-absorbing, colored substances, which are not acceptable in hair cosmetic preparations. REFERENCES (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (2O) D. A. Shaw, The extraction, quantification and nature of hair lipid, Int. J. Cosine. Sci., 1, 291-302 (1979). S. Hilterhaus-Bong and H. Zahn, Contribution to the chemistry of human hair: II. Lipid chemical aspects of permanently waved hair, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 11(4), 167-174 (1989). A. Schwan, J. Herrling, and H. Zahn, Characterization of internal lipids from wool, Colloid Polym. Sci., 264, 171-175 (1986). J. D. Leeder, J. A. Rippon, F. E. Rothery, and I. W. Stapleton, Use of the transmission electron microscope to study dyeing and diffusion processes, Proc. 7th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Tokyo, 5, 89-99 (1985). J. H. Bradbury, J. D. Leeder, and I. C. Watt, The cell membrane complex of wool, Appl. Polym. Syrup., 18, 227-236 (1971). H. Zahn, Wool is not keratin only, Plenum Lect., 6th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Pretoria, 1 (1980). K. Nishimura, M. Nishino, Y. Inaoka, Y. Kitada, and M. Fukushima, Interrelationship between the hair lipids and the hair moisture, Nippon Koshohin Kagakkaishi, 13(3) 134-139 (1989). M. P. Mansour and L. N. Jones, Morphological changes in wool after solvent extraction and treat- ments in hot aqueous solutions, Text. Res. J., 59, 530-535 (1989). J. Herrling, Analysis of proteins and lipids of the cell membrane complex of dyed and oxidized wool (in German), PhD Thesis, RWTH Aachen (1985). M. L. Tare, Y. K. Kamath, S. B. Ruetsch, and H.-D. Weigmann, Quantification and prevention of hair damage, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 347-371 (1993). K. Jimbow, Y. Miyake, K. Homma, K. Yasuda, Y. Izumi, A. Tsutsumi, and S. Ito, Characterization of melanogenesis and morphogenesis of melanosomes by physicochemical properties of melanin and melanosomes in malignant melanoma, Cancer Res., 44(3), 1128-1134 (1984). E. Hoting, M. Zimmermann, and S. Hilterhaus-Bong, Photochemical alterations in human hair. Part I: Artificial irradiation and investigations of the hair proteins, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 85-99 (1995). E. Hoting, M. Zimmermann, and H. H&ker, Photochemical alterations in human hair Part II: Analysis of melanin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 181-190 (1995). F. G. Lennox and R. J. Rowlands, Photochemical degradation of keratins, Photochem. Photobid., 9, 359-367 (1969). L. J. Wolfram, "Reactivity of Human Hair, a Review," in Hair Research: Status and Future Aspects, Orfanos, Montagna, and Stfittgen, Eds. (1981), pp. 479-500. C. R. Robbins and M. Bahl, Analysis of hair by electron spectroscopy for chemical analysis, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 35, 379-390 (1984). S. Kanetaka, K. Tomizawa, H. Iyo, and Y. Nakamura, The effect of UV radiation on human hair concerning physical properties and fine structure of protein, Int. Fed. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., Yokohama (1992). R. Beyak, G. S. Kass, and C. F. Meyer, Elasticity and tensile properties of human hair. II. Light radiation effects, J. Soc. Cosine. Chem., 22, 667•578 (1971). A. Deftandre, J. C. Garson, and F. Leroy, Photoaging and photoprotection of natural hair, Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, New York, October 1990. M. Zimmermann, Internal lipids of wool: Photooxidative induced alterations and their effect on the wool fiber (in German), PhD Thesis, RWTH Aachen (1989).
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