492 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE preservative testing harmonization, 366 refractive index matching of clear emulsions, 253 sensory perception, 356 skin hydration from food, 334 skin irritation-age effects, 213 skin neurosensitivity test, 153 skin ozone protection, 348 skin permeation, tocopheryl acetate, 91 tooth whitening, 121 transepidermal water loss, 335 triclocarban analysis, 183 triclosan analysis, 183 UV skin damage, 57 vegetable oils penetration into hair, 282 3-Methylbutyl 4-methoxycinnamate synthesis, 207 Monoethanolamine analysis, 206 Myrosma cannifolia starch formulation and properties, 208 Micelles shampoo, 57 Microemulsions rheology, 267 Minerals seawater treatment of dry skin, 58 Moisturizers efficacy, 427 levan, 395 Nasal delivery systems formulation, 4 72 Niacinamide (vitamin B3) treatment for aging skin, 60 Nuclear hormone receptors sebum inhibition, 151 Octadecendioic acid skin whitening, 209 Oils hair penetration, 283 hemp seed oil, 227 makeup removers, 205 olive oil, 227 vegetable oils penetration into hair, 282 Olive oil formulation, 227 Optical properties coatings, light scattering, 193 makeup, 205 Oxidation chemical and photochemical cuticular damage, 64 Ozone skin effects, 348 Palmitoyl pentapeptide skin care, 280 Particle size manufacturing control, 205 Permanent waving chemistry, 372 cuticular damage, 219 Pheomelanin photolightening, 47 Photolightening melanin, 4 7 Photochemical oxidation hair cuticle damage, 64 Phthalate esters analysis, 334 Phytosterols effect of apple seed phytosterols on skin aging, 64 Polymeric emulsifiers W/O/W emulsions, 209 Polymers hair conditioner delivery systems, 466 hair cosmetics, 338, 340, 344 Polysaccharides levan, 395 PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 nanoemulsions, 63 Preservative efficacy testing methods, 167, 368 Preservatives chemistry, 361 efficacy in wet wipes, 333 formulation, 359 regulatory issues, 364 testing, 368 testing harmonization, 366 method, 167 Primary irritation effect of moisturizers, 427 Propylparaben synthesis, 207 Quaternary compounds chemistry, 456 Refractive index matching clear emulsions, 253 Regulatory issues preservatives, 364 Retinoids sebum inhibition, 151 Review article cellulite, 379 Rheology ascorbic acid effect on microemulsions, 267 sensory perception to emulsions, 356 shampoo, 152, 281 Salicylic acid formulation, 151 Salt effect shampoo rheology, 281

SUBJECT INDEX 493 SCTE skin, 59 Sea water dry skin, 58 Sebaceous glands acne, 151 Sebum synthesis inhibition, 151 Sensitive skin mechanisms and diagnosis, 207 Sensory perception method, 356 Sensory properties emollients, 175 intersensory properties, 211 Shampoo properties, 57 rheology, 152, 281 Silica synthesis of spherical silica with benzophenones, 280 Silicones delivery systems,478 in makeup removers, 63 Silk-elastin protein skin care, 352 Skin anti-aging ingredients, 354 anti-wrinkling properties of beta-glucan, 21 ] beta-defensin stimulation, 279 dark eye circles, 58 dry skin, 58 elastic properties, 282 ergothioneine, 17 hormonal changes, 311 hydration with food supplements, 334 image analysis, 465 infrared imaging, 4 7 6 ozone protection, 348 penetration of lamellar delivery systems, 350 penetration of liposomes, 334 sensitive skin, 207 subcutaneous tissue, 149 tocopheryl acetate permeation, 91 UV radiation, 17 UV radiation damage, 57 Skin aging free radicals, 208 treatment with apple seed phytosterols, 64 treatment with niacinamide, 60 UV radiation, 208 Skin care cleansing, effect on skin enzymes, 59 emotional and psychological effects, 281 EUK-134, effect on skin, 59 palmitoyl pentapeptide, 280 silk-elastin protein, 352 Skin enzymes surfactant effects on, 59 Skin irritation age effects, 213 effect of moisturizers, 427 Skin lightening mechanism, 354 Skin penetration D&C Red No. 17, 376 Skin properties evening primrose oil ingestion, 334 hormonal cyclicity, 311 Skin sensitivity testing capsaicin, 153 mechanisms and diagnosis, 207 Skin whitening mechanism, 209 Skin wrinkles beta-glucan, 211 treatment with niacinamide, 60 Sphingoglycolipids skin care, 149 Stratum corneum tryptic enzyme effect on skin, 59 Superoxide dismutase synthetic on skin, 59 Superoxide dismutase, modified anti-aging skin care, 281 Sudactants amphoteric, 452 cationic, 456 effect on skin enzymes, 59 Synthesis aromatic esters, 207 spherical silica particles with benzophenones, 280 UV absorbers, 135 Teeth whitening, 121 Tewameter transepidermal water loss, 335 Thermomechanical analysis hair, 468 Time release hydrogel patches, 210 Tocopheryl acetate skin penetration, 91 Transdermal delivery systems elastic vesicles, 334 lamellar delivery system, 350 Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) methods, 335 Triclocarban analysis, 183