2005 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR HAIR & SKIN EVALUATION BY IMAGE ANALYSIS Janusz J achowicz, Ph.D. and Roger McMullen International Specialty Products, Wayne, NJ 07470 Image analysis has found numerous applications in cosmetic science for characterization of skin and hair and for quantification of the effectiveness of cosmetic treatments. In skin research, image analysis techniques are used in combination with profilometry, topography analysis, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and stereomicroscopy, which are all used for cutaneous microrelief analysis as well as for quantification of the effects of moisturization, anti-aging, exfoliation, and "peeling" of various products [1,2]. These techniques can be employed to visualize and quantify the skin surface in various regions such as lips, aging spots, thinning cellulite, wrinkles, etc. Quantitative parameterization includes depth and peak distributions, hole analysis, Fourier analysis, power spectrum analysis, angle measurements, distance measurements, etc. [ 1-3]. Similarly, image analysis can also be employed for hair research in combination with photography, optical microscopy, SEM, scanning probe microscopy (SPM), and color analysis. Specific problems, which can be solved by using image analysis measurements, include quantification of hair luster on both idealized geometrically arranged straight hair as well as on free hanging frizzy or curly hair tresses [ 4,5]. By varying the illumination conditions one can obtain hair images for quantitative characterization of hair surface deposits such as styling polymer films (flakes), micronized and non- micronized inorganic sunscreens, pigments, etc. For idealized geometrical conditions of fiber arrangement and illumination, one can perform color analysis by quantitative measurements of image histograms, which can provide information about color shifts as a result of styling treatments, dye deposition, as well as color distribution in hair fiber assemblies. An important area of hair evaluation is the characterization of hair damage. Image analysis can be employed in visualization, and both qualitative and quantitative characterization of hair damage based on optical, SEM, and SPM micrographs. Finally, optical micrographs can be used for the characterization of fiber organization in hair fiber assemblies. The paper will review both published and previously unpublished data References: [I] K. Miyamoto, G. Hillebrand, The beauty imaging system: for the objective evaluation of skin condition, J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 62 (2002). [2] www.digitalsurf com [3] H. Zahouani, R. Vargiolu, Ph. Humbert, 3D morphological tree representation of the skin relief A new approach of skin imaging characterization, Proceedings of XXth IFSCC Congress, Cannes 1998, Vol.3, p.69. [4] T. Maeda, T. Hara, M. Okada, and H. Watanabe, Measurements of hair luster by color image analysis, Proceedings of 16th JFSCC Congress, New York, 1990, Vol. I, p. 127. [5] R. McMullen and J. Jachowicz, Optical properties of hair: effect of treatments on luster as quantified by image analysis, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 335 (2003). 465

466 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE POLYMERIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS FOR HAIR CONDITIONER ACTIVES Bruce Beard, Ph.D. and Andress K. Johnson, Ph.D. Akzo Nobel, New York Introduction There are several methodologies used to substantiate claims with respect to hair conditioners that can be split into subjective and objective tests. The subjective methodologies include hair panel tests using either hair tresses or actual people at salons with a national brand used as a reference. Objective measurements typically include instruments techniques such as combing force reduction compared to an untreated tress or visual analysis such as Electron microscopy for viewing physical changes in the hair fiber as a result of a treatment. X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy (XPS) is another unique tool that can offer insight into the actual deposits on the hair fiber that accounts for the perceived or measure benefits. Due to the chemical nature of commonly used conditioner actives these can be easily detected on the hair surface by monitoring either the silicone or quaternary nitrogen signals. Secondly the characteristic signals of sulfur and non-quaternary nitrogen from the underlying hair fiber allow determination of treatment coverage. In the following study a nonionic polymer was identified as giving an intensive hair conditioner formula superior performance over a national brand in subjective panel tests. XPS analysis was used to investigate the influence of this polymer on the deposition and coverage of hair conditioner actives on the hair fibers. Methodology Medium brown European hair tresses were pbtained from International Hair Importers & Products Inc, New York. The hair tresses were bleach damaged with a generic formulation containing hydrogen peroxide, SLS, bisulfide and ammonia. The intensive hair conditioner formula contained 0.8% Stearylamdiopropyl dimethylamine, 2.75% Di-palmitoylethyldimonium chloride and 0.9% Dimethicone with 0.6% optional polymer. The application of the conditioner was done by the following methods: Dispersion -damaged hair tresses were exposed to a 10% dispersion of the conditioner formulation with and without polymer for 60 seconds at 35-40°C then rinsed for 30 seconds at 35-40°C Direct - 1 gram of conditioner formulation with and without polymer was directly rubbed onto the damaged hair tresses for 60 seconds then rinsed for 30 seconds at 35-40°C. Combing Tests Panel tests - Hair tresses that had been exposed to a 10% dispersion of the hair conditioner with and without polymer or national brand were placed side by side into clamps, then using a comb with wide teeth were combed to remove all the knots. A set of -15 panelists compared the tresses on ease of combing using the narrow teeth on the comb and indicated a preference. Wet Comb - The wet combing force was measured by using the load cell of a Dia-Stron Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT). When the comb is pulled through a wet hair tress, reduction in total work done is compared to an untreated hair tress. Dry Comb -The dry combing force was measured by using the load cell of a Dia-Stron Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT). When the comb is pulled through a dry hair tress, reduction in total work done is compared to an untreated hair tress. XPS Analysis XPS analysis was performed on mounted hair fibers from various treated hair tresses using a Physical Electronic 5600 spectrometer. Low resolution elemental composition scans were collected first to identify the elements present at the surface of the fiber. Subsequent high resolution scans were performed to obtain chemical state information for the identification of specific chemical structures of the hair or conditioner molecules on the hair fiber. SEM Electron microscope images were collected with a Zeiss EVO-50 XVP instrument. Images for this work were collected with a secondary electron detector. Probe beam energy was 20KV. A thin coating of Au was evaporated onto the surface of the fibers to minimize charge buildup. Magnifications of I0Kx of the samples treated using both application methods with and without the polymer.