412 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE EDTA, erythorbic acid, fragrance, nonoxynol-10, sodium metasilicate, sodium sulfite, sorbitol, tallowtrimonium chloride, 1-naphthol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-amino-2-hy­ droxytoluene, iron oxides, m-aminophenol, mica, p-aminophenol, p-phenylenediamine, resorcinol, titanium dioxide. Light auburn developer: water, nonoxynol-9, nonoxynol-4, hydrogen peroxide, EDTA, phosphoric acid. Pyrazole-containing intense red lotion (IV): water, C 12 _ 13 pareth-3, oleth-10, cocamide MEA, dilinoleic acid, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, steareth-21, ammonium hydroxide, behentrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-22, algae extract, sorbitol, fragrance, erythorbic acid, EDTA, sodium sulfite, sodium metasilicate, sodium sulfate, 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate, m-aminophenol, mica, iron oxides, titanium dioxide. Intense red developer: water, hydrogen peroxide, cetearyl alcohol, laureth-23, steareth-21, polyquaternium-3 7, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, styrene/PVP copolymer, PPG-trideceth-6, etidronic acid. Pyrazolone-containing dark auburn (V): water, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, soytri­ monium chloride, isopropyl alcohol, ethoxydiglycol, ethanolamine, oleth-5, oleic acid, ammonium hydroxide, oleth-2, fragrance, C 11 _ 15 pareth-9, cocamidopropyl betaine, C12_15 pareth-3, erythorbic acid, citric acid, EDTA, sodium sulfite, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, m-aminophenol, p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, phe­ nyl methyl pyrazolone, resorcinol, N ,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sul­ fate. Dark auburn developer: water, hydrogen peroxide, acrylates copolymer, steareth-21, oleth- 2, oleth-5, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate co­ polymer, oleyl alcohol, etidronic acid, disodium EDTA, simethicone. Dye colorant and developer solutions were combined, and the tresses saturated with the mixture were then allowed to react for 25 minutes at 40°C. Samples were then rinsed thoroughly under room-temperature tap water and shampooed twice with 3% ammo­ nium lauryl sulfate (ALS). The conditioners enclosed with the hair-dye products were not used. Tresses were kept under ambient conditions overnight, and then shampooed again. After drying, the initial color was read using a HunterLab Ultrascan. The change in the color of the samples was determined, using equation 1, from measurements taken before and after irradiation. Shampooing consisted of adding approximately 1.5 ml of a 3% ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) solution per gram of hair to wet tresses and massaging for one minute, then rinsing under room-temperature tap water for one minute. For treatment with leave-in formulations, the formulation was added to wet hair after shampooing and the tresses were massaged and combed to ensure even distribution. When necessary, the hair was dried using a hair dryer, operating with the room-temperature setting. At no time were the tresses dried with heat. To assess the effectiveness of individual sunscreens rn their ability to prevent color fading, the following treatments were employed: Benzophenone-4. 1-7% w/w aqueous solutions were employed. The pH was adjusted to 4 with lM NaOH. Typically, 2-g hair tresses were treated with 1 g of solution. For 5-7%

FADING OF ARTIFICIAL HAIR COLOR 413 treatment solutions, the hair displayed a noticeable deposit of the photofilter on the surface. Benzophenone-4-ZnO combinations. (a) Control: 0.5 g PEG-20 stearate, 0.75 g glyceryl stearate (and) laureth-23 were added to 20 g of deionized water. The dispersion was heated to 50°-60°C with stirring until the emulsifiers melted or dissolved. The solution was cooled to room tem­ perature, 0.25 g of preservative (propylene glycol and diazolidinyl urea and propyl­ paraben) was added, and the formulation mass was brought to 25 g with deionized water. (b) 2% ZnO: 0.5 g PEG-20 stearate, 0.75 g glyceryl stearate (and) laureth-23, and 0.50 g ZnO were added to 20 g of deionized water. The dispersion was heated to 50°-60°C with stirring until the emulsifiers melted or dissolved. The solution was cooled to room temperature, 0.25 g of preservative (propylene glycol and diazoli­ dinyl urea and propylparaben) was added, and the formulation was brought to 2 5 g with deionized water. The formulation needed to be shaken before use due to the settling of the ZnO. (c) 2% Benzophenone-4: 0.5 g PEG-20 stearate, 0.75 g glyceryl stearate (and) laureth- 23, 0.50 g benzopheneon-4, and 1.60 g lM NaOH were added to 20 g of deionized water. The dispersion was heated to 50°-60°C with stirring for 15 min, and then the solution was cooled to room temperature, 0.25 g of preservative (propylene glycol and diazolidinyl urea and propylparaben) was added, and the formulation was brought to 25 g with deionized water. (d) 1 % Benzopheneone-4-1 % ZnO: 0.5 g PEG-20 stearate, 0.75 g glyceryl stearate (and) laureth-23, 0.25 g benzophenone-4, 0.8 g lM NaOH, and 0.25 g ZnO were added to 20 g of deionized water (pH was about 7). The dispersion was heated to 50°-60°C with stirring until the emulsifiers melted or dissolved. The solution was cooled to room temperature, 0.25 g of preservative (propylene glycol and diazoli­ dinyl urea and propylparaben) was added, and the formulation was brought to 25 g with deionized water. The formulation needed to be shaken before use due to the settling of the ZnO. (e) Benzophenone-3: 1-5% w/w EtOH solutions were employed with 2-g hair tresses treated with 1 g of solution. (f) Benzophenone-3-ZnO: 0.75 g isocetyl alcohol, 0.50 g cetearyl alcohol and ce­ teareth-20, 0.75 g benzophenone-3 (Escalol 560), and 0.75 g ZnO were stirred in 20.50 g EtOH. After dissolution of the surfactants, 2.50 g of cyclomethicone was added. Products based on benzophenone-3 (Escalol 560, ISP), ZnO, and control systems were prepared according to the same recipe. (g) Benzophenone-4-octyl methoxy cinnamate (OMC)-ZnO: 3% UV absorber (OMC, benzophenone-4, ZnO, or 1.5% OMC or 1.5% benzophenone-4 with 1.5% ZnO), 1 % butylated PVP (Ganex P-904 LC, ISP), 2% cetearyl alcohol (Emulgade 1000 NI, Cognis), and 0.5% preservative (Liquid Germall Plus, ISP). The preservative was a mixture of propylene glycol, diazolidinyl urea, and iodopropynyl butylcarba­ mate. OMC (Escalol 5 5 7) and benzophenone-4 (Escalol 5 77) were ISP products. Micronized ZnO was from Presperse. (h) Dimethylpabaimidopropyl laurdimonium tosylate-benzophenone-3: dimethylpab­ amidopropyl laurdimonium tosylate (Escalol HP-610), 1 % isocetyl alcohol (Cera­ phyl ICA, ISP), 0.4% benzophenone-3, 1 % propylene glycol, 0.4% dimethiconol