424 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE result of shampooing and irradiation/shampooing, probably because of the high water solubility of the coloring products and intermediates. • Photofading of artificial hair color is caused by UV and visible light and can be reduced by 27% to 63%, depending on the irradiation dose, by a complete elimi nation of UV radiation by the use of an inorganic glass filter. According to theoretical calculations, the attenuation of UV light (290-400 nm) by organic photofilters depends on the amount deposited on the hair and varies from 10% to 25% for UVB filters and 40% to 60% for UV A filters at the deposition amount of 30 mg/(g hair). • The use of organic photofilters such as benzophenone-3 and benzophenone-4 affords color protection ranging from 15% to 40% for the deposited amounts of photofilters from 5 mg/(g hair) to 25 mg/(g hair). REFERENCES (1) J. Jachowicz, M. Helioff, C. Rocafort, A. Alexander, and R. K. Chaudhuri, Photodegradation of hair and its photoprotection by a substantive photofilter, Drug Cosmet. Ind. (December 1995), and references cited therein. (2) T. Gao and A. Bedell, UV damage to natural gray hair and its photoprotection,j. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 103 (2001). (3) S. B. Ruetsch, Y. Karnath, and H.-D. Weigmann, Photodegradation of human hair: An SEM study, J. Cosmet. Chem., 51, 103 (2000). (4) L. J. Wolfram and L. Albrecht, Chemical and photo-bleaching of brown and red hair,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 82, 179 (1987). (5) E. Hoting, M. Zimmermann, and S. Hilterhaus-Bong, Photochemical alterations in human hair. II. Analysis of melanin,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 181 (1995). (6) E. Hoting and M. Zimmermann, Sunlight-induced modifications in bleached, permed, or dyed human hair,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 48, 79 (1997). (7) Ph. Maillan, UV protection of artificially colored hair using a leave-on formulation, Int.]. Cosmet. Sci., 24, 11 7 (2002). (8) F. W. Marschner and F. Schebece, Composition that protects dyed hair from fading, USP 5,045,307. (9) C. L. Chin and T. C. Ching, A novel silicone color retaining conditioning agent for hair color retention and for clear shampoos, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (Aston Publishing, 2002), p. 167. (10) C. M. Pande, L. Albrecht, B. Yang, Hair photoprotection by dyes,]. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 377 (2001). (11) S. B. Ruetsch, B. Yang, and Y. Karnath, Role of melanin and artificial hair color in preventing photo-oxidative damage to hair, IFSCC Mag., 7, 127 (2004). (12) K. Brown, What's new in hair coloring, SCC Annual Scientific Seminar, Uncasville CT, May 2004, p. 44. (13) M. I. Lim, Y. G. Pan, L. R. Stasaitis, and J. D. Donoghue, USP 5,529,583, 5,672,180, assigned to Clairol. (14) A. Junino and G. Lang, USP 5,279,620, assigned to l'Oreal. (15) M. P. Andousset and J. Cotteret, USP 5,769,903, assigned to l'Oreal A. Bougaut, and Ch. S. Fourcadier, USP 4,094,635, assigned to l'Oreal. (16) J. Jachowicz, B. Lock, and R. McMullen, Spectroscopic analysis of photo and thermal degradation of hair, XIII Congreso Latinoamericano e Iberico de Quimicos Cosmeticos and IFSCC Conference, Acapulco, Mexico, 1997, p. 227. (17) C. Robbins, Weathering in human hair, Text. Res.]., 37, 337 (1967). (18) C. Dubief, Experiments with hair photo-degradation, Cosmet Toiletr., 107, 95 (1992). (19) B. Diffey, A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factor throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127 (1989). (20) D. Laba, A highly efficient/transparent ultrafine zinc oxide for sun protection, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (Aston Publishing, 2000), p. 299.
FADING OF ARTIFICIAL HAIR COLOR 425 (21) W. Johncock and M. Schuricht, Advances in broad spectrum UVA/UVB photoprotection, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (Aston Publishing, 2002) p. 197. (22) V. Andre, A Kuhnle, N. Willenbacher, and T. Wunsch, Where physics and chemistry meet for the best UV protection: Absorption and stability of UV-A and UV-B filters, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, (Aston Publishing, 2004), p. 19. (23) J. Jachowicz, R. McMullen, and B. Locke, Hair and hair product evaluation by image analysis, First International Conference on Applied Hair Science, TRI/Princeton, Princeton, NJ, June 2004. (24) J. Jachowicz and M. D. Berthiaume, Microemulsions vs. macroemulsions in hair care products, Cosmet. Toiletr., 108, 65 (1993). (25) M. D. Berthiaume, J. H. Merrifield, and D. Riccio, Effects of silicone pretreatment on oxidative hair damage,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 231 (1995).
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