J. Cosrnet. Sci., 56, 447-448 (November/December 2005) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 8, No. 3, 2005* Membrane Structured Solid Nanoparticles - A Novel Nanotechnology for Delivery of Cosmetic Active Ingredients Gerd H. Dahms Institute for Applied Colloid Technology, Koopmannstrasse 59A, D-47138 Duisburg, Germany Lipid nanoparticles have a structure similar to that of nanoemulsions. Their size ranges typically from 50 to 1000 nm. They differ from nanoemulsions in that the lipid core is a solid. The matrix consists of solid lipids or mixtures of lipids. Over the past years it has been demonstrated that solid lipid nanoparticles appear to be a promising drug carrier system for the future. Their occlusion properties reduce transepidermal water loss and can enhance penetration of active ingredients through the stratum comeum. As with all new technologies, some problems with the solid lipid nanoparticle technology need to be solved. One major problem is the homogeneous incotporation of amphiphilic active ingredients into the crystal matrix of the nanoparticles. Actives with an amphiphilic character like tocopherol or retinol cannot be kept homogeneously distributed in the wax structure during the emulsification process. Due to their hydrophilic head group they accumulate at the exterior layer of the nanoparticles together with the surfactant system used. Consequently, homogeneous release over time is not guaranteed and a burst release has to be expected. A second disadvantage is the manufacturing process. Solid lipid nanoparticles can be produced only under high pressure conditions. Also the concentration of the solid particles in the dispersion, which is added to an emulsion, is quite low. To overcome these problems membrane structured solid nanoparticles (MSSN) have been developed. These MSSN systems consist of liquid crystalline membrane systems with extremely low surfactant concentrations. The lateral movement of actives is controlled by amphiphilic solid actives such as ceramides and solid emollients. This guarantees maintenance of the advantageous properties of solid lipid nanoparticles such as retarded release of actives and their protection against chemical decomposition, but it also allows the homogeneous incoiporation of amphiphilic actives. Membrane structured solid nanoparticles are produced using a continuous three-phase emulsification technique. This allows protection of heat-sensitive actives against decomposition. The concentration of nanoparticles in the MSSN dispersion can be kept higher than 60% (w/w). Even at these concentrations the nanodispersions keep their flow properties. As a result, they can be easily incotporated into the final formulation. A National Web-Based Survey of Sunscreen Products as a Tool for Industry Self-Regulation, Consumer Awareness Campaigns and Marketing Beverley Summers 1, Rob S. Summers 1, and Esme Muller 2 1 Photobiology Laboratory, School of Pharmacy, Box 2 18, Medical University of Southern Africa, PO Medunsa 0204, South Africa (now Medunsa Campus, University of Limpopo) 2 SurveyIT, PO Box 179, Newlands, Pretoria 0049, South Africa The objective of the work was to test a web-based tool in the collection and presentation of data for our regular sunscreen surveys and to develop, test and conduct a web-based survey of sunscreen products, with instant data reporting. After the Photobiology Laboratory at MEDUNSA was approached by SurveylT to pilot a new web-based data collection and reporting tool, companies were contacted via e-mail and invited to visit a secure web-based site to complete the provided questionnaire. Data collection and processing were greatly simplified by the new approach. The survey gleaned responses from 18 companies on 31 brands with a total of 110 primary sunscreen products. The data revealed a reduction in the number of companies marketing sunscreens in South Africa compared with the previous year, despite an increase in the volume of sunscreen sales. Ninety-eight percent of the products were claimed to be in vivo SPF tested. Fifty-seven percent of the products had undergone in vitro SPF testing for determination of their UV A protection. Fifty­ one percent of the products were claimed to be water­ resistant. Octyl methoxycinnamate was the most popular UV filter (88% of products), followed by benzophenone-3 (60%). Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane was in 52% of the products and suiprisingly only 2 9% of the products contained titanium dioxide. The major conclusions are that the data collection tool was a success and that sunscreens are becoming more widely used and more thoroughly tested in South Africa. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 447

448 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE N-Palmitoyl-4-Hydroxy-L-Proline Palmityl Ester: A Pseudoceramide that Provides Efficient Skin Barrier Repair and Protection Gabriele Vielhaber, Sabine Lange, Jakob Ley and Oskar Koch Symrise GmbH & Co KG, D-37603 Holzminden, Germany Ceramides are the main constituents of the ep idermal permeability barrier, and it has been demonstrated that the application of ceramide enriched creams promotes ep idermal barrier repair. However, nature-identical ceramides are extremely expensive and difficult to formulate. We therefore developed a new pseudoceramide, N-palmitoyl-4-hydroxy-L­ pr oline palmityl ester (810391). Due to its low melting point of D 60°C the pseudoceramide Bl0391 can easily be incorporated into cosmetic formulations. In addition, it is very safe for use in cosmetics. The efficacy of the pseudoceramide BI0391 was investigated in vivo in a model for detergent­ induced barrier disruption. Trans-epidermal water loss, redness, and skin hydration were recorded before and after barrier disruption as well as during the subsequent 9-day treatment with the test pr oducts. Barrier repair of skin treated with the pseudoceramide B1O391 was accomplished earlier than that of untreated and vehicle treated skin. Optimum barrier repair was achieved with 1.0% pseudoceramide BI0391 and optimum erythema reduction with 0.5% pseudoceramide BI039 l. The optimum dosage could be reduced to 0.1 % pseudo-ceramide by synergistic combination with 0.1% (-)-0-bisabolol. In addition, the pseudoceramide B1O391 pr oved to be as effective as nature-identical ceramides 2 and 3. In summary, N-palmitoyl-4-hydroxy-L­ pr oline palmityl ester is a highly efficient barrier repair agent with efficacy equivalent to that of nature-identical ceramides, and it has excellent formulation pr operties. Production of the Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinase-2 (TIMP-2) and Evaluation of Its Potential as Anti-Aging Active Rolf Schiltz, Beatrice Konig, Beat Hochstrasser, Patrick Stolz, Dominik Imfeld Pentapharm Ltd, Department of Biotechnology, Engelgasse 109, CH-4002 Basel, Switzerland Collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) show increased activities pr edominantly in W-irradiated skin as well as in chronologically aged skin. MMPs are therefore reasoned to be associated with the degenerative alterations in the collagenous dermal extracellular matrix, which in tum may accelerate the signs of skin aging such as wrinkle formation and skin sagging. In normal physiological pr ocesses MMP activity is controlled by the endogenous tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs). Here we report the biotechnological production of the human-identical inhibitor TIMP-2 and its evaluation as an anti-aging active through attenuation of the degenerative MMP activity. The recombinant TIMP-2 polypeptide selectively inhibited MMPs in vitro which are involved in aging pr ocesses and showed efficient IC50 values in the low nanomolar range. Topical application of formulated TIMP-2 on skin explants with subsequent UVB irradiation (2-3 MED) resulted in an almost quantitative protection against collagen degradation. Thus, our biotechnological pr oduction of TIMP-2 leads to the active broad-spectrum MMP inhibitor that reduces excessive MMP activity and thereby presCIVes the structural integrity of collagen network. Optical Properties of Skin Gloss and Development of a »Mizumizushii« Look Makeup Foundation Hirochika Nishimura, Yutaka Takasuka, Megumi Yamamoto POLA Chemical Industries, Inc , 27-1 Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833 Japan In Japan, the term »mizurnizushii« is used to describe a quality of »beauty«. We studied »apparently mizumizushii­ looking skin« and tried to develop makeup products that »make the skin look rnizumizushii« which is one of the characteristics of beauty. To accomplish this what constitutes »mizumizushii-looking skin« and »non mizumizushii-looking skin« first had to be defined. Hence, sensory evaluations were performed on 100 women. The results showed that these panelists could be classified into two groups: 25 women »having mizumizushii-looking skin« and 75 women »having skin without a rnizumizushii look«. Further, it was revealed that the »skin without a rnizumizushii look« could be classified into two groups, those with dry-looking skin and those with excessively oily-looking skin. We then succeeded in qualitatively classifying the appearance of the skin of these three groups on the basis of the difference in a value obtained for optical properties analyzed under specified conditions. Moreover, results of studies on possible qualitative classification of these groups using Zl, the newly discovered optical parameter for optical properties of the skin, showed an apparent relationship with the surface morphology (homogeneity on a micron scale). Based on the findings on the optical properties of »mizumizushii-looking skin«, we designed a makeup film imparting the »mizumizushii look«, which in turn led to the development a »rnizumizushii look« makeup foundation. Development of a Novel Oxidative Hair Color Based on a System with an Optimized Ratio of Higher Alcohol to Cationic Surfactant Takahiro Yamashita, Masatoshi Ochiai, Kazuya Shibata, Masaaki Yasuda, and Akira Noda Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan Oxidative hair color, the most commonly used for coloring hair, is characterized by its bleaching effect. This effect enables dark hair to be dyed in various bright colors. In order to enhance this bleaching effect, the concentration of either the alkalizing or oxidizing agent in the hair color base is generally increased. However, this method causes chemical damage to the hair. With the aim of finding methods to obtain an improved bleaching effect without increasing the amount of bleaching ingredients, the authors investigated the permeation mechanism. Cationic bases showed the highest bleaching effect and allowed greater penetration, permitting bleaching ingredients to enter the cortex of the hair more easily and diffuse more quickly. In addition, the molar ratios of higher alcohol (A) to cationic surfactant (C) as a function of the bleaching effect were also evaluated. The results showed an optimum range for this A/C ratio. The smoothness of the hair was also evaluated, revealing an optimum range for the A/C ratio. Based on these findings, a product with an A/C ratio that maximizes the bleaching effect and the smoothness of the hair was successfully developed. Comparison of this newly developed product with a conventional product verified that the new pr oduct has a greater bleaching effect and gives a beautiful depth of color while maintaining the silky smoothness of the texture of the hair.