J. Cosmet. Sci.) 56, 445-446 (November/December 2005) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 27, No. 5, 2005* Nicotinamide � biologic actions of an emerging cosmetic ingredient N. Otte, C. Borelli and H. C. Korting Department of Dermatology and Allergology, University of Munich, Munich, Germany Nicotinamide, the water-soluble amide of nicotinic acid, is a component of the two most important coenzymes - nicotinarnide adenine dinucleotide and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate. Thus nicotinamide is involved in numerous oxidation­ reduction reactions in mammalian biological systems. Nicotinamide essentially acts as an antioxidant. Most effects are exerted via poly-adenosine diphosphate­ ribose polymerase inhibition. Thus nicotinarnide increasingly gains interest in the prevention and treatment of several skin diseases. It is well established in the systemic therapy of pellagra, a deficiency disease linked to nicotinic acid, but with respect to topical use there is still a need for further evidence with respect to its manifold potential uses. Currently, its local use is established in the care of acne-prone skin. New anti-RNS and -RCS products for cosmetic treatment J. Cebrian*, A Messeguer, R. M. Facino and J. Ma. Garcia Anton* *Research and Development Department, LIPOTEC, SA, C/lsaac Peral, 17, 08850 Gava'. Barcelona, Spain, Bioorganic Chemistry Department, IIQAB-CSIC and lstituto Chimico Farmaceutico Tossicologico, University of Milan, Milan, Italy Oxidants and :free radicals are known to be a very important factor in skin aging, taking an active part in lipidic peroxidation, breakage of proteins and DNA, etc. The most well-known are reactive oxygen species (ROS), for example, superoxide radical anion, or more commonly called, superoxide (0 _ 2 ), hydroxyl radical (OH•) or hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Both :free radicals and other oxidants can be generated by metabolic activity within the cell and by other environmental challenges. In addition, other dangerous species are known such as reactive nitrogen species (RNS) and reactive carbonyl species (RCS). Some of the most important RNS are perox:ynitrite (ONOO)), nitrogen dioxide radical (•NO2) and the nitronium ion (NOp2). For RCS, some of the most important are 4- hydrox:ynonenal (HNE), actolein (ACR), malondialdehyde (MDA) or glyoxal (GXL). Both compounds (RNS and RCS) are thought to play an important role in many diseases and in skin aging, for example, collagen cross-linking, DNA damage, protein tyrosine nitration, etc. This work investigates two new specific chemicals: Lipochroman-6 - an anti-RNS which shows good results in inhibiting the nitration of tyrosine by peroxynitrite, and Aldenine - a tripeptide anti-RCS which protects cells :from reactive carbonyl compounds such as HNE or ACR it also shows the ability to prevent glycation of proteins, specifically by superoxide dismutase (SOD). Unveiling the molecular basis of intrinsic skin agingl 0. Holtkotter*, K. Schlotmann*, H. Hofheinz, R. R. Olbrisch and D. Petersohn* *Henkel KGaA. HenkelstraBe 67, 40 191 Dusseldorf, Germany and Clinic for Plastic Surgery, Florence­ Nightingale-Hospital, KreuzbergstraBe 79, 40 489 Dusseldorf, Germany The process of skin aging is a combination of an extrinsic and intrinsic aspect, and knowing the molecular changes underlying both is a prerequisite to being able to effectively counter it. However, despite its * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 445

446 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE importance for a deeper understanding of skin aging as a whole, the process of intrinsic skin aging in particular has barely been investigated. In this study, the molecular changes of intrinsic skin aging were analyzed by applying 'Serial Analysis of Gene Expression' (SAGETM) to skin biopsies of young and aged donors. The analysis resulted in several hundred differentially expressed genes with varying statistical significance. Of these, several genes were identified that either have never been described in skin aging before ( e.g. APP) or have no identified function, e.g. EST sequences. This is the first time that intrinsic skin aging has been analyzed in such a comprehensive manner, offering a new and partially unexpected set of target genes that have to be analyzed in more detail in terms of their contribution to the skin aging process. New anti-RNS and -RCS products for cosmetic treatment A new method to evaluate lower eyelid sag using three-dimensional image analysis Y. Fukuda, T. Fujimura, S. Moriwaki and T. Kitahara Biological Science Laboratories, Kao Corporation, Tochigi, Japan Lower eyelid sags as well as wrinkles represent age­ related morphological changes of the skin surface. However, a quantitative method to evaluate lower eyelid sagging has not been previously established. We designed a new quantitative evaluation method that uses non-invasive skin scanning, which is based on the difference between the superficial dimension of the sagging surface of the lower eyelid and the dimension of its projection area. In 97 females, 2-D and the 3-D images were taken. By 3-D image analysis, the difference between the superficial dimension of the sagging surface of the lower eyelid and the dimension of its virtual projection area was assessed, and was defined as the sag parameter. This parameter was significantly correlated with the sag score ( a photographic scale to assess the degree of sagging) and with aging. The accuracy of the sag parameter was confirmed in a clinical test using a sag treatment lotion and a placebo lotion. The sag score decreased in skin treated with the sag treatment lotion, but the change was not significantly different from that of the placebo treated skin. On the contrary, the sag parameter was significantly reduced (P 0.05) after topical application of the sag treatment lotion compared with the placebotreated skin. These results indicate that the sag parameter as proposed herein is useful in clinical studies to evaluate slight changes in lower eyelid sagging. Quantification of dandruff adherence to hair C. Pierard-Franchimont, E. Uhoda and G. E. Pierard Department of Dermatopathology, University Hospital Sart Tilman, B-4000 Liege, Belgium Dandruff adherence to hair shafts is a visible annoying phenomenon. The aspect can be recorded by different means including the ultraviolet light-enhanced visualization (ULEV) method and microscopy. We present another quantitative method. Hairs were clipped from the parietal scalp area of 25 volunteers complaining of dandruff. They were firmly applied onto cyanoacrylate-coated microscopic slides. Hairs were lifted up after 15-20 s leaving a cast in the adhesive coat. Dandruff were thus harvested from the hair shafts and remained attached to the cyanoacrylate coat. After staining, the material was submitted to image analysis to derive the dandruff density per unit length of hairs. In 11/25 subjects, a correlation was found between the width of the hair casts and the dandruff density. This method does not collect all dandruff along hair shafts, but data are likely representative of the whole comeocyte load.