FADING OF ARTIFICIAL HAIR COLOR 425 (21) W. Johncock and M. Schuricht, Advances in broad spectrum UVA/UVB photoprotection, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (Aston Publishing, 2002) p. 197. (22) V. Andre, A Kuhnle, N. Willenbacher, and T. Wunsch, Where physics and chemistry meet for the best UV protection: Absorption and stability of UV-A and UV-B filters, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, (Aston Publishing, 2004), p. 19. (23) J. Jachowicz, R. McMullen, and B. Locke, Hair and hair product evaluation by image analysis, First International Conference on Applied Hair Science, TRI/Princeton, Princeton, NJ, June 2004. (24) J. Jachowicz and M. D. Berthiaume, Microemulsions vs. macroemulsions in hair care products, Cosmet. Toiletr., 108, 65 (1993). (25) M. D. Berthiaume, J. H. Merrifield, and D. Riccio, Effects of silicone pretreatment on oxidative hair damage,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 231 (1995).
]. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 427-444 (November/December 2005) Ability of moisturizers to reduce dry skin and irritation and to prevent their return F. ANTHONY SIMION, ERIC S. ABRUTYN, and ZOE D. DRAELOS, The Kao Brands Company, 2535 Spring Grove Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45214 (F.A.S., E.S.A), and Dermatology Consulting Services, 2444 North Main Street, High Point, NC 27262 (Z.D.D.). Accepted for publication May 5, 2005. Presented in part at the 58th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2000, and at the Annual Scientific Meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, December 2000 Synopsis Assays of moisturizer efficacy have traditionally focused on a moisturizer's ability to alleviate dry skin. More recently, a moisturizer's ability to prevent primary irritation has been recognized. To assess and compare the ability of moisturizers to alleviate skin dryness and primary irritation, as well as prevent their return, four controlled-application clinical (in vivo) studies were carried out: hand-wash test, regression test, reduction in pre-existing irritation study, and prevention-of-irritation studies. Overall conclusions were confirmed in a home-use clinical (validation) study of people suffering from mild eczema. The controlled in vivo studies demonstrate that: (a) a moisturizer can alleviate skin dryness and irritation, and prevent their return and (6) the efficacy of different moisturizers can be differentiated, based on their composition. The home-use study results demonstrated that the most effective moisturizer identified by the controlled-application studies was highly effective against the signs of eczema. In vivo modeling of moisturizer efficacy enables assessment and optimization of different benefits separately, while predicting the quantitative and perceived (observed) relevance of the benefits the moisturizer delivers to consumers. INTRODUCTION Millions of people suffer daily from skin dryness, itching, scaling, and redness due to a large variety of causes. The most common cause of skin dryness and irritation is exposure to surfactants and/or solvents, either as part of aggressive daily hygiene, repeated hand washing, exposure to cleaning solvents, or occupational activities. The skin barrier, composed of corneocytes and intercellular lipids, can only withstand a finite amount of damage until skin disease results. Predisposing factors to skin disease include low humidity conditions from cold dry weather and insufficient or defective sebum produc­ tion. It is for these reasons that dry skin is more common in the winter months and 427
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