440 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (Figure 2c). No significant difference between products was detected. In general, it can be concluded from the conductance and the squamometry results that product GR is the most effective moisturizer at reducing or even preventing the drying effects of soap on the skin. BENEFIT: PREVENTION OF PRIMARY IRRITATION-SURFACTANT PATCH TEST Occlusive patching with a 0.5% SLS solution produced a moderate-to-severe level of erythema on the control ("no product") site. For the two sites exposed to the product, the data was averaged. Applying lotion H prior to the SLS solution did little to prevent the induction of erythema in comparison to the "no product" control, whereas lotion GR was able to significantly reduce erythema induction (Figure 3). BENEFIT: REDUCTION IN PRE-EXISTING PRIMARY IRRITATION The two controls used for this procedure were a 1 % hydrocortisone gel and de-ionized water. Hydrocortisone is known to have anti-irritant properties and to significantly reduce observable, soap-induced erythema compared with water. This was found to be the case (Figure 4), and was used to validate the procedure. Lotion GR was shown to be as effective as 1 % hydrocortisone at reducing erythema after 24 hours, and significantly more effective than water, the "no product" control. In contrast, 20% benzocaine, a topical analgesic that has an anesthetic mode of action, did not reduce erythema more than water. VALIDATION: HOME-USE STUDY Tolerability (physician-assessed). All products were well tolerated by all participants, i.e., no panelist dropped out of this study. Improvement 2.5 �--�----------------------�I � 2 • e. 1.5 0 u U) ! 0.5 a+---- Lotion GR Lotion H No Product Figure 3. Prevention of primary dermal irritation. The ability of lotions to prevent surfactant-induced primary irritation was assessed by a trained observer evaluating erythema.

Improvement ,., C'O C � 0.8 C'O � 0.6 Cl) .c 'E- 0.4 w .5 S 0.2 "'C 0 & MOISTURIZER EFFICACY Lotion GR 20% Benzocaine 1 % Hydrocortisone 441 Water Figure 4. Alleviation of primary dermal irritation. The ability of lotion GR to reduce primary irritation caused by exposure to SLS was assessed by a trained observer evaluating erythema. Overall dermatological assessment. After one and two weeks of use, lotion GR and associated products effectively decreased dry-skin scaling (see Figure Sa), excoriation, fissuring, crusting, erythema, lichenification, and roughness. Thus, they are valuable ancillary products in treating patients with mild-to-moderate xerotic eczema accompanied by itching. Overall skin care product assessment (subject-assessed). Panelists reported that using Lotion GR and its associated cleansers produced statistically significant improvements in skin softness, smoothness, and moisturization, as well as in the appearance and feel of dry skin (Figure Sb). Additionally, participants reported a decrease in skin itching, roughness, and irritation. Thus, these products deliver panelist-recognizable skin benefits to those suffering from dermatoses accompanied by itching. CONCLUSIONS AND DISCUSSION In vivo controlled-use models allow for the evaluation of the different benefits of mois­ turizers in different situations, which lead to discrimination between moisturizers with different formulae. Based on the results of each in vivo model, it is concluded that moisturizers can reduce both primary irritation and dryness, as well as prevent their recurrence. However, some lotions are more effective than others a lotion with a high concentration of glycerin was particularly effective. Additionally, results of the home-use study support the in vivo model findings and confirm the validity of this approach. The ability of glycerin to alleviate both dryness and primary irritation is well estab­ lished. Using the regression test, Shapiro (23) showed that glycerin was able to alleviate dry skin in a dose-dependent manner. Rawlings et al. (24) have recently confirmed this. There are several possible mechanisms by which glycerin may relieve dryness. Glycerin, an effective humectant, may absorb water from the underlying layers of the skin. An