586 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
built. The community includes the following species: Cutibacterium: C. acnes, C. avidum,
C. namnetense, C. Granulosum, Staphylococcus: S. epidermidis, S. capitis, S. aureus, S. Hominis,
Corynebacterium: C. tuberculostearicum, C. kroppenstedtii Micrococcus luteus Kocuria palustris
and rhizophila and Bacillus thuringiensis. Species were plated in BHI agar supplemented with
0.1% of Tween80 at 37°C in aerobic (Staphylococcus, Micrococcus, Corynebacterium, and Kocuria
species), or anaerobic conditions (Cutibacterium species). A single colony was picked from
each plate and grown in BHI, Thermo Fischer Scientific) liquid medium for all bacteria
except Corynebacterium species that were cultivated in a specific liquid medium (confidential
composition). Fifty µL of each culture was pooled in a single tube. The bacterial density of
each culture was assessed as colony forming units per volume unit (CFU/mL) after growth
in agar medium under the appropriate conditions (as described above). The pool of cultures
was subjected to two DNA extractions using Zymo BIOMICS™ DNA miniprep (Zymo
Research). These two DNA solutions from the same mock community were prepared for
sequencing using the same protocol as for the skin samples. Two amplification replicates
were performed for each DNA solution.
BIOINFORMATIC ANALYSIS
Samples were analyzed with the bioinformatics pipeline DADA2,18 which consists of a series
of steps to filter the raw sequences obtained through Illumina sequencing and a final step
to obtain the taxonomy of the sequences that have been filtered for microbial community
study. A metadata sheet was used to gather all information specific to samples, such as
participant characteristics (age, sex, skin phenotype), skin sites, and the corresponding
sequencing run. Sequences were filtered based on size, quality, and presence of primers.
The error rate was determined by gathering samples sequenced in the same run, and
the subsequent denoising was performed with the pseudo-pooling method. Taxonomic
assignment was achieved with the database Silva 138.1 (online resource for quality checked
and aligned ribosomal RNA sequence data) at the species level. If the algorithm did not
manage to provide a classification at the species level, the species annotation was built with
the corresponding genus combined to the mention spp (species plural, e.g. Staphylococcus
spp.). Amplicon sequence variants (ASVs) that were not assigned to any genera were excluded
from the analysis. ASVs classified as mitochondria and chloroplast at the family and class
level, respectively, were also discarded from the analysis. To make the data manipulation
easier and to exclude potential sequencing artifacts, ASVs having less than 10 reads in
the overall study or present in a single sample were also discarded. A cutoff of 5,000
reads was selected to avoid the loss of rare species. Rarefaction curves were generated to
ensure sufficient sequencing depth with the vegan package from the R program. The vegan
package provides tools for descriptive community ecology. It has the most basic functions
of diversity analysis, community ordination, and dissimilarity analysis.
NORMALIZATION OF THE SEQUENCING DATA
Sequencing data were treated according to four different workflows to check the impact of
normalization methods. Total Sum Scaling (TSS) was achieved with the function transform_
sample_counts and rarefied counts, with and without replacement, were achieved with the
rarefy_even_depth function. Both functions are from the phyloseq package. Phyloseq is
587 Specificities of Microbiota From Sensitive Skin
a tool to import, store, analyze, and graphically display complex phylogenetic sequencing
data that has already been clustered into Operational Taxonomic Units (GitHub, San
Francisco, CA, USA). The Cumulative Sum Scaling was produced by exporting data in
the appropriate format using phyloseq_to_metagenomeSeq function from the phyloseq
package and counts were normalized with MRcounts from metagenomeSeq package. TSS
also called “relative abundance” was used as default method for the subsequent analysis.
CREATION OF A BACTERIAL COLLECTION FROM THE NORMAL AND SENSITIVE SKIN SUBJECTS
More than 4,000 isolates were retrieved by DBMT (droplet containing or not bacteria
sorting drop by drop). Amplification of the 16S rRNA gene was performed with the high-
fidelity polymerase (Q5 polymerase) and sequenced using PacBio Sequel II 8M. 16S rRNA
gene sequences allowed for isolate identification (genus, species, and ASVs level). The NS
and SS microbial collections were then constituted by coupling the information from the
bioinformatic analysis regarding prevalence and abundance. Thirty-one isolated species
from NS were selected to create our representative NS collection: 10 Cutibacterium, 17
Staphylococcus, 1 Micrococcus, and 3 Corynebacterium. Likewise, 31 species were selected from
SS for the SS collection: 8 Cutibacterium, 12 Staphylococcus, 1 Micrococcus, 3 Corynebacterium, 2
Kocuria, 2 Streptococcus, 1 Roseomonas, 1 Enhydrobacter, and 1 Bacillus.
ACTIVE INGREDIENT PROFILING ON THE BACTERIAL COLLECTION FROM INDIVIDUALS WITH
NORMAL SKIN
Ingredients: Inonotus obliquus (mushroom) extract was tested at concentrations ranging from
0.01–1% and Dendrobium officinale stem extract at concentration from 0.002–0.05% (BASF,
France).
A classical microtiter plate method was performed. Briefly, the species from the NS
collection were grown in 96-well culture plates with triplicates of the ingredients at 4
concentrations or without ingredients, in 200 µL of BHI medium for all species except
for Corynebacterium species that were cultivated in liquid medium (confidential medium).
Plates were incubated at 37°C in a shaking or non-shaking incubator depending on the
strains. Growth was assessed after 24 hours, 48 hours, and 72 hours by optical density
measurement at 600 nm (Spark, Tecan, Switzerland). Results from n =4 and compared to
the untreated. Statistics: Dunnett’s multiple comparison test significant if p 0.05.
IMPACT OF C. ACNES FROM NS OR SS ON KERATINOCYTES
C. acnes coming from four donors were evaluated (namely NS, SS4, SS7, and SS8) on normal
human keratinocytes either through indirect or direct interaction. The representative strain
of NS was first chosen according to its phylotype (IA1, i.e. the more represented on skin)
and a preselection based on the evaluation of lipase activity (the selected NS strain has a
medium range of lipase activity among five other strains, data not shown).
To study indirect interaction, normal human keratinocytes from plastic surgery
(abdominal part, 26 years old) were seeded in 96-well culture plates with 15,000 cells/
cm2 in Keratinocyte Serum-Free Medium (KSFM) (Thermo Fisher Scientific). After 24
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