FADING OF ARTIFICIAL HA.IR COLOR Ill •1::1 100 BLUE GREEN RED 80 +-- ---------------- - C 00+----------i.--------=.....-�---- ,i::,II, � 40 +-- - - -------\,�---- -- / -- / � // 20 +-- - ----- - - Dy,ed - ---�-/-_/,,../----- -\�----/ 0 -1------=:::=:===::::::;::::=======�=---�-------,------- 350 450 550 Wave.ten tlrl (111111) 0 750 b) !Initial Dyed Figur,e 3. a) The reflectance . p'·ctm of h:;iir (I), shown in (b . 411 32 Ho :rs frradiation brown Cauca ian anc bJeached hair we1·e purchased from DeMeo Brother� (New Yor ·). Tresses ,vere either 3 inches long by 1 inch wide, with the w ight of the hair at 1.2 g, or 6 inches long by 1 inch wide, ,vith weight of 2.0 g. TRTIA 1 ENTS 1-hir samples were cl ed -....vith commerciaJ wo-part, permanem h. ir dyes having hades of light auburn, medium auburn, 'llld dark 'll burn based on rhe foUowi1 g com po itions: DcJrk au/mm colrwing lolion (I): warer, propylene glycol., ethoxyglycol, lauramide DEA, soytrimonium chloride, isopropyJ akolml, oleic acid, ammonium hydroxide, ol th-10, fragrance, oleth- , panthenol, hydrolyzed soy protein, h ,drol }1 zed wh ar starch, hydro­ ]yzed wheat protein, behentrimonium chloride, citric acid, hydroxyethyl.cetyldimonium phosphate, dicetyklimonium chloride, erythorbic acid, sodium sulfite, EDTA, p­ aminophenol, p-p] enylenediamine, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, resorcinol, N,N­ bis(hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate, 1-naphthol. Dar, aNb1m1 _le,,e/opi11g lotiou: water, hydrogen peroxide, acrylar.e copolymer, stearer 1-21, oleth-2, oLc:h-5, PEG-5( tallow amide, a rylates/sr ·areth-20 methacrylate copolymer, sim ·thicone, oleyl alcoh I, etidronic acid, disodium EDTA. l11Iedi11m ar,bun, coloring lolion (fl): oJeic acid, lauramicle DEA, ammonjum hydroxide, cetyJ akohol, fragrance, laureth-23, erychorbic acid, stearyl alcohol, sodium sulfite, EDTA, sodium metasilicate, p-aminoph nol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, resorcino1, mica, titanium dioxide, p-phenylenediamine, 1-naphthol, iron oxides, 2-methyl­ resorcinol, m-aminophenol. }\,fedirmt a11lmnz developin1: lo1ion: ·vater, nono .ynol-4, nonoxynoJ-9, hydrogen peroxide, disodium EDTA, propylene gly ol, trim hylsilylamodimethicone, isolaureth-6, oc­ toxynol-40, phosphoric acid. Light auburn coloring lotion (Ill): water, decyl polygJucose, dilinol.eic acid, linoleamido­ propyl climethylamine dimer clilinoleate, behentrimonium chloride, steareth-21, ammo­ nium hydroxide, cetearyJ alcohol, :polyqtY ternium-22, amodimethicone, algae extract,

412 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE EDTA, erythorbic acid, fragrance, nonoxynol-10, sodium metasilicate, sodium sulfite, sorbitol, tallowtrimonium chloride, 1-naphthol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-amino-2-hy­ droxytoluene, iron oxides, m-aminophenol, mica, p-aminophenol, p-phenylenediamine, resorcinol, titanium dioxide. Light auburn developer: water, nonoxynol-9, nonoxynol-4, hydrogen peroxide, EDTA, phosphoric acid. Pyrazole-containing intense red lotion (IV): water, C 12 _ 13 pareth-3, oleth-10, cocamide MEA, dilinoleic acid, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, steareth-21, ammonium hydroxide, behentrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-22, algae extract, sorbitol, fragrance, erythorbic acid, EDTA, sodium sulfite, sodium metasilicate, sodium sulfate, 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate, m-aminophenol, mica, iron oxides, titanium dioxide. Intense red developer: water, hydrogen peroxide, cetearyl alcohol, laureth-23, steareth-21, polyquaternium-3 7, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, styrene/PVP copolymer, PPG-trideceth-6, etidronic acid. Pyrazolone-containing dark auburn (V): water, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, soytri­ monium chloride, isopropyl alcohol, ethoxydiglycol, ethanolamine, oleth-5, oleic acid, ammonium hydroxide, oleth-2, fragrance, C 11 _ 15 pareth-9, cocamidopropyl betaine, C12_15 pareth-3, erythorbic acid, citric acid, EDTA, sodium sulfite, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, m-aminophenol, p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, phe­ nyl methyl pyrazolone, resorcinol, N ,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sul­ fate. Dark auburn developer: water, hydrogen peroxide, acrylates copolymer, steareth-21, oleth- 2, oleth-5, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate co­ polymer, oleyl alcohol, etidronic acid, disodium EDTA, simethicone. Dye colorant and developer solutions were combined, and the tresses saturated with the mixture were then allowed to react for 25 minutes at 40°C. Samples were then rinsed thoroughly under room-temperature tap water and shampooed twice with 3% ammo­ nium lauryl sulfate (ALS). The conditioners enclosed with the hair-dye products were not used. Tresses were kept under ambient conditions overnight, and then shampooed again. After drying, the initial color was read using a HunterLab Ultrascan. The change in the color of the samples was determined, using equation 1, from measurements taken before and after irradiation. Shampooing consisted of adding approximately 1.5 ml of a 3% ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) solution per gram of hair to wet tresses and massaging for one minute, then rinsing under room-temperature tap water for one minute. For treatment with leave-in formulations, the formulation was added to wet hair after shampooing and the tresses were massaged and combed to ensure even distribution. When necessary, the hair was dried using a hair dryer, operating with the room-temperature setting. At no time were the tresses dried with heat. To assess the effectiveness of individual sunscreens rn their ability to prevent color fading, the following treatments were employed: Benzophenone-4. 1-7% w/w aqueous solutions were employed. The pH was adjusted to 4 with lM NaOH. Typically, 2-g hair tresses were treated with 1 g of solution. For 5-7%