336 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
thin, aesthetically pleasing, lubricating layer that improves feel, aids with grooming, helps
reduce abrasion, and can lessen fiber breakage. While these are all highly desirable benefits
(and which most consumers likely could not do without), in the marketing world there
is always the need for a new story. Accordingly, messages become increasingly grander
attractive sounding—but non-functional—ingredients are touted, false promises get made,
the fundamental science takes a backseat, and the credibility of our industry suffers. It is
hoped that this article will help emphasize and reinforce the differences between science and
marketing, as well as the difference between scientific language versus consumer language.
THE DEVELOPMENT OF INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS TO MEET PERSONAL SUSTAINABILITY NEEDS
Delivering Sustainable Solutions to Improve Wellbeing. As sustainability becomes a top priority
in the beauty industry, the challenge lies in developing eco-friendly materials that meet
performance standards. Innovative solutions are emerging, and the authors from Lipotech
and Lubrizol describe the processes involved in bringing novel active ingredients from
concepts to reality. The new products are THW biotech ingredient, tetrapeptide-1, and
stevia rebaudiana extract, and two new rheology modifiers, starch acetate/adipate (SSA)
and tara gum. These ingredients address sustainability through four key pillars: renewable
carbon and biodegradability, carbon emission reduction, eco-designed processes, and
sustainable sourcing.
Crucially, these advancements maintain exceptional performance in beauty applications, as
demonstrated through rigorous evaluations. By integrating innovation with environmental
responsibility, the beauty industry can meet market demands for high-performance
products while advancing sustainability goals. This marks a significant step toward a more
sustainable future for beauty innovation.
THE FUTURE OF PRODUCTS THAT ARE MICROBIOLOGICALLY SAFE AND EFFECTIVE
The Evolution of Cosmetic Preservation and the Microbiological Challenges Posed by Sustainability. In
a detailed, comprehensive review, Dr. Orth explains how the landscape of cosmetic
preservation has undergone significant transformation over the past 75 years, reflecting
advancements in science, sustainability, and consumer demands. Originally focused on
preventing product contamination, preservation strategies now prioritize sustainability,
environmental protection, and the health of the skin microbiome.
Key innovations include hurdle technology, which has enabled reduced use of traditional
preservatives and the creation of preservative-free products. Multifunctional ingredients
with antimicrobial properties are increasingly replacing controversial preservatives, such
as parabens and formaldehyde donors, driven by concerns over safety and consumer
preferences. Modern preservative efficacy testing methods have also evolved, offering rapid,
eco-friendly alternatives that reduce waste and environmental impact.
Sustainability is at the forefront of these changes. The cosmetic industry recognizes the
need to minimize preservatives’ potential contribution to antimicrobial resistance and
their adverse effects on ecosystems. Efforts to develop natural, sustainable preservation
systems that work harmoniously with the skin microbiome are accelerating. Research into
the microbiome’s role in maintaining skin health is shaping the future of preservation,

337 THE STATE OF SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES
with approaches like probiotics, prebiotics, and phages showing promise for maintaining
microbial diversity and preventing dysbiosis.
As the industry continues to innovate, the goal is clear: to create products that are not only
safe and effective but also environmentally sustainable and supportive of the skin’s natural
ecosystem. This evolution underscores a commitment to beauty that enhances well-being
while preserving both the environment and the delicate balance of the skin microbiome.
SCENT
The Role of Personal Scent. In a fascinating article, Dr. Giacomoni and Dr. Rialdi reveal that
olfactory signals play a far more profound role in our lives than we realize. Beyond masking
unpleasant odors, fragrances can uplift our mood, sharpen our focus, reduce anxiety, and
even boost vitality. These effects stem from fragrant molecules binding to receptors in the
olfactory system, triggering neurological responses through the release of neuropeptides.
Intriguingly, some olfactory signals are subliminal—undetectable by our sense of smell yet
capable of influencing physiological and behavioral responses. These subtle signals, such as
pheromone-like molecules, can affect everything from mother-infant bonding to fertility
and even the synchronization of menstrual cycles among women living together.
Properly utilized, pheromone-mimetic substances have demonstrated the potential to
enhance mood, acceptance, and emotional connections on both individual and collective
levels. As the complexities of olfactory communication are uncovered, the door will
be opened to a deeper understanding of its profound impact on human behavior and
relationships, revealing it as an integral and essential part of our existence.
EFFECTIVE GLOBAL COMMUNICATION
INCI Nomenclature – International Harmony. Effective global communication and
standardization is greatly aided by accepted common lexicology and standard terminology.
Joanne Nikitakis, Senior Director of Cosmetic Chemistry for the Personal Care Products
Council describes how cosmetic scientists rely on precise ingredient identification—a process
made possible by the globally recognized INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic
Ingredients) system. Established during the 1970s in response to regulatory demands,
INCI evolved from collaboration between industry chemists, regulatory authorities, and
scientific organizations, creating a standardized naming system that fosters product safety,
regulatory compliance, innovation, and global trade.
Over decades, the INCI system has expanded its scope, has achieved international
harmonization, and has streamlined ingredient identification across borders. While
it has been pivotal in enabling the cosmetic industry to innovate sustainably, common
misconceptions persist, such as assuming INCI names equate to ingredient safety or
regulatory approval. In reality, INCI is a naming framework, while safety assessments
remain the responsibility of manufacturers and independent scientific bodies.
As new processes and materials emerge, INCI continues to adapt, ensuring alignment with
evolving industry needs. This commitment to harmonized nomenclature supports sustainable
innovation, enhances consumer transparency, and upholds the integrity of ingredient selection
worldwide, ultimately benefiting all stakeholders in the global cosmetics market.