515 Evolution and Challenges of Sustainability
evolution has involved the use of hurdle technology that enables cosmetic scientists to
formulate products with reduced levels of preservatives or products that are preservative-free.
The evolution of cosmetic preservation is expanding from merely being focused on
preservative systems that prevent product contamination to products that preserve the
healthy skin microbiome. We are beginning to determine the composition of the skin
microbiome, the benefits of microbial diversity in sustaining the microbiome, and the
crosstalk between the microorganisms and the skin that benefits skin physiology and
helps maintain homeostasis. Sustainable cosmetic products should work with the skin
microbiome to maintain microbial diversity and to prevent dysbiosis that may result in
skin disorders. It may be possible to use selected microorganisms as probiotics, to use
phages to prevent growth of undesirable microorganisms, or to use compounds identified
as prebiotics to stimulate growth of desirable skin microflora to maintain homeostasis. The
evolution of cosmetic preservation will continue as we learn more about environmentally
friendly preservative-free products that are sustainable because they benefit the healthy
skin/skin microbiome ecosystem as they beautify and promote attractiveness of the skin.
REFERENCES
(1) Orth DS. Putting the Phoenix phenomenon into perspective. Cosmet Toiletr. 1999 114(4):61-66.
(2) Hugo WB. A brief history of heat and chemical preservation and disinfection. J Appl Bacteriol.
1991 71(1):9-18. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2672.1991.tb04657.x
(3) Garrett AW, Orth DS. A history of cosmetic microbiology in the United States. In: Orth DS, Kabara JJ,
Denyer SP, Tan SK, eds. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:11-21.
(4) Curry JC. History of cosmetic microbiology. In: Brannan DK, ed. Cosmetic Microbiology, A Practical
Handbook. CRC Press 1997:1-16.
(5) de Navarre MG. The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics. D Van Nostrand Company, Inc 1941:1-745.
(6) Kallings LO, Ernerfeldt F, Silverstolpe L. Microbiological contamination of medical preparations. Report
to the Royal Swedish Medical Board [final report]. Stockholm February 1965 [cited in Goldman CL.
Microorganisms isolated from cosmetics. Drug Cosmet Ind. 1975. 117(1):40-41].
(7) Wolven A, Levenstein I. Cosmetics contaminated or not. TGA Scientific Conference. December 1969.
(8) Wolven A, Levenstein I. Microbiological examination of cosmetics. J Am Cos Perfumery. 1972 87:63.
(9) Wilson LA, Julian AJ, Ahearn DG. The survival and growth of microorganisms in mascara during use.
Am J Ophthalmol. 1975 79(4):596-601. doi:10.1016/0002-9394(75)90798-9
(10) Ahearn DG, Sanghvi J, Haller GJ, Wilson LA. Mascara contamination: in use and laboratory studies. J
Soc Cosmet Chem. 1978 29:127-129.
(11) Orth DS. Insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media. 2010:1-26.
(12) Anonymous. Microbiological tests, antimicrobial preservatives—effectiveness, United States
Pharmacopeia XIX. The United States of America Pharmacopeial Convention 1975:587-592.
(13) Preservation Subcommittee of the CTFA Microbiological Committee. A guideline for the determination
of adequacy of preservation of cosmetics and toiletry formulations. TGA Cosmet J. 1970 2:20-23.
(14) Orth DS. Preservatives, insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media. 2010:111-145.
(15) Orth DS. Rapid determination of cosmetic preservative efficacy. Oral presentation at the Ohio Valley Chapter
of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in Cincinnati, Ohio October 17, 1979.
(16) Orth DS, Anderson CML, Smith DK, Milstein SR. Synergism of preservative system components: use of
the survival curve slope method to demonstrate anti-Pseudomonas synergy of methyl parabens and acrylic
acid homopolymer/copolymers in vitro. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989 40:347-365.
516 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(17) Orth DS, Eck KSD. Preservative efficacy testing of aqueous cosmetics and drugs without counting
colonies. Cosmet Toiletr. 2001 116(4):41-44,46,48.
(18) Fairchild, II EJ. No detectable exposure levels for proven carcinogenic substances. Ann N Y Acad Sci.
1976 271(1):200-207. doi:10.1111/j.1749-6632.1976.tb23111.x
(19) Strunk DL. Occupational exposure to formaldehyde, 52 fed. Reg. December 4, 1987 46(168) (codified at
29 C.F.R. § 1910.1048).
(20) Darbre PD, Aljarrah A, Miller WR, Coldham NG, Sauer MJ, Pope GS. Concentrations of parabens in
human breast tumours. J Appl Toxicol. 2004 24(1):5-13. doi:10.1002/jat.958
(21) Nakagawa Y, Moldéus P. Mechanism of p-hydroxybenzoate ester-induced mitochondrial dysfunction
and cytotoxicity in isolated rat hepatocytes. Biochem Pharmacol. 1998 55(11):1907-1914. doi:10.1016/
s0006-2952(98)00097-5
(22) Harvey PW, Everett DJ. Significance of the detection of esters of p -hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens) in
human breast tumours. J Appl Toxicol. 2004 24(1):1-4. doi:10.1002/jat.957
(23) Goon A, Leow YH, Goh YH. Safety and toxicological properties of preservatives. In: Orth DS, Kabara
JJ, Denyer SP, Tan SK, eds. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare 2006:153-162.
(24) Cherian P Amended safety assessment of parabens as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2020 39(1):5S-97S.
(25) United States Food and Drug Administration. Parabens in Cosmetics, FDA website 2024. Accessed
9/15/2024. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/parabens-cosmetics
(26) United States Food and Drug Administration. FDA Issues Final Rule on Safety and Effectiveness of
Antibacterial Soaps. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (news release. September 2, 2016).
(27) Curry JC. Cosmetic microbiology. 50 years of change. Happi. 1983 8:44-52.
(28) Russell AD. A history of pharmaceutical preservation in the United Kingdom. In: DS Orth Kabara JJ
Denyer SP Tan SK, ed. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:23-42.
(29) Fukubayashi T. A history of cosmetic and drug microbiology in Japan. In: DS Orth Kabara JJ Denyer
SP Tan SK, ed. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:43-56.
(30) Orth DS. Preservative-free (self-preserving) cosmetics. Insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus
Media. 2010:147-166.
(31) Orth DS. The keys to successful product preservation, Insights into Cosmetic Microbiology. Allured Bus
Media. 2010:27-110.
(32) Bauman HE. The HACCP concept and microbiological hazard categories. Food Technol. 1974 32(9):31,
32,34,74.
(33) Orth DS. Preservation of Cosmetic Products, Handbook of Cosmetic Microbiology. Marcel Dekker, Inc
1984:75-102.
(34) Orth DS. Introduction. Insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media. 2010.
(35) Brannan DK. The role of packaging in product preservation. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-
Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:227-242.
(36) Orth DS. Cosmetic Microbiology: the Future. Handbook of Cosmetic Microbiology. Marcel Dekker, Inc
1984:521-582.
(37) Leistner L, Gorris LGM. Food preservation by hurdle technology. Trends Food Sci Technol. 1995 6(2):41-
46. doi:10.1016/S0924-2244(00)88941-4
(38) Yang E, Fan L, Yan J, et al. Influence of culture media, pH and temperature on growth and
bacteriocin production of bacteriocinogenic lactic acid bacteria. AMB Expr. 2018 8(1):10. doi:10.1186/
s13568-018-0536-0
(39) Enigl DC, Sorrells KM. Water activity and self-preserving formulas. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds.
Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc
1997:45-73.
(40) Yablonski J. Risk factor assessment of anhydrous/atypical cosmetic products. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS,
eds. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc
1997:133-151.
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Volume 75 No 5 - Sustainability Special Issue - Open Access resources

Extracted Text (may have errors)

515 Evolution and Challenges of Sustainability
evolution has involved the use of hurdle technology that enables cosmetic scientists to
formulate products with reduced levels of preservatives or products that are preservative-free.
The evolution of cosmetic preservation is expanding from merely being focused on
preservative systems that prevent product contamination to products that preserve the
healthy skin microbiome. We are beginning to determine the composition of the skin
microbiome, the benefits of microbial diversity in sustaining the microbiome, and the
crosstalk between the microorganisms and the skin that benefits skin physiology and
helps maintain homeostasis. Sustainable cosmetic products should work with the skin
microbiome to maintain microbial diversity and to prevent dysbiosis that may result in
skin disorders. It may be possible to use selected microorganisms as probiotics, to use
phages to prevent growth of undesirable microorganisms, or to use compounds identified
as prebiotics to stimulate growth of desirable skin microflora to maintain homeostasis. The
evolution of cosmetic preservation will continue as we learn more about environmentally
friendly preservative-free products that are sustainable because they benefit the healthy
skin/skin microbiome ecosystem as they beautify and promote attractiveness of the skin.
REFERENCES
(1) Orth DS. Putting the Phoenix phenomenon into perspective. Cosmet Toiletr. 1999 114(4):61-66.
(2) Hugo WB. A brief history of heat and chemical preservation and disinfection. J Appl Bacteriol.
1991 71(1):9-18. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2672.1991.tb04657.x
(3) Garrett AW, Orth DS. A history of cosmetic microbiology in the United States. In: Orth DS, Kabara JJ,
Denyer SP, Tan SK, eds. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:11-21.
(4) Curry JC. History of cosmetic microbiology. In: Brannan DK, ed. Cosmetic Microbiology, A Practical
Handbook. CRC Press 1997:1-16.
(5) de Navarre MG. The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics. D Van Nostrand Company, Inc 1941:1-745.
(6) Kallings LO, Ernerfeldt F, Silverstolpe L. Microbiological contamination of medical preparations. Report
to the Royal Swedish Medical Board [final report]. Stockholm February 1965 [cited in Goldman CL.
Microorganisms isolated from cosmetics. Drug Cosmet Ind. 1975. 117(1):40-41].
(7) Wolven A, Levenstein I. Cosmetics contaminated or not. TGA Scientific Conference. December 1969.
(8) Wolven A, Levenstein I. Microbiological examination of cosmetics. J Am Cos Perfumery. 1972 87:63.
(9) Wilson LA, Julian AJ, Ahearn DG. The survival and growth of microorganisms in mascara during use.
Am J Ophthalmol. 1975 79(4):596-601. doi:10.1016/0002-9394(75)90798-9
(10) Ahearn DG, Sanghvi J, Haller GJ, Wilson LA. Mascara contamination: in use and laboratory studies. J
Soc Cosmet Chem. 1978 29:127-129.
(11) Orth DS. Insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media. 2010:1-26.
(12) Anonymous. Microbiological tests, antimicrobial preservatives—effectiveness, United States
Pharmacopeia XIX. The United States of America Pharmacopeial Convention 1975:587-592.
(13) Preservation Subcommittee of the CTFA Microbiological Committee. A guideline for the determination
of adequacy of preservation of cosmetics and toiletry formulations. TGA Cosmet J. 1970 2:20-23.
(14) Orth DS. Preservatives, insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media. 2010:111-145.
(15) Orth DS. Rapid determination of cosmetic preservative efficacy. Oral presentation at the Ohio Valley Chapter
of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in Cincinnati, Ohio October 17, 1979.
(16) Orth DS, Anderson CML, Smith DK, Milstein SR. Synergism of preservative system components: use of
the survival curve slope method to demonstrate anti-Pseudomonas synergy of methyl parabens and acrylic
acid homopolymer/copolymers in vitro. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989 40:347-365.
516 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(17) Orth DS, Eck KSD. Preservative efficacy testing of aqueous cosmetics and drugs without counting
colonies. Cosmet Toiletr. 2001 116(4):41-44,46,48.
(18) Fairchild, II EJ. No detectable exposure levels for proven carcinogenic substances. Ann N Y Acad Sci.
1976 271(1):200-207. doi:10.1111/j.1749-6632.1976.tb23111.x
(19) Strunk DL. Occupational exposure to formaldehyde, 52 fed. Reg. December 4, 1987 46(168) (codified at
29 C.F.R. § 1910.1048).
(20) Darbre PD, Aljarrah A, Miller WR, Coldham NG, Sauer MJ, Pope GS. Concentrations of parabens in
human breast tumours. J Appl Toxicol. 2004 24(1):5-13. doi:10.1002/jat.958
(21) Nakagawa Y, Moldéus P. Mechanism of p-hydroxybenzoate ester-induced mitochondrial dysfunction
and cytotoxicity in isolated rat hepatocytes. Biochem Pharmacol. 1998 55(11):1907-1914. doi:10.1016/
s0006-2952(98)00097-5
(22) Harvey PW, Everett DJ. Significance of the detection of esters of p -hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens) in
human breast tumours. J Appl Toxicol. 2004 24(1):1-4. doi:10.1002/jat.957
(23) Goon A, Leow YH, Goh YH. Safety and toxicological properties of preservatives. In: Orth DS, Kabara
JJ, Denyer SP, Tan SK, eds. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare 2006:153-162.
(24) Cherian P Amended safety assessment of parabens as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2020 39(1):5S-97S.
(25) United States Food and Drug Administration. Parabens in Cosmetics, FDA website 2024. Accessed
9/15/2024. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/parabens-cosmetics
(26) United States Food and Drug Administration. FDA Issues Final Rule on Safety and Effectiveness of
Antibacterial Soaps. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (news release. September 2, 2016).
(27) Curry JC. Cosmetic microbiology. 50 years of change. Happi. 1983 8:44-52.
(28) Russell AD. A history of pharmaceutical preservation in the United Kingdom. In: DS Orth Kabara JJ
Denyer SP Tan SK, ed. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:23-42.
(29) Fukubayashi T. A history of cosmetic and drug microbiology in Japan. In: DS Orth Kabara JJ Denyer
SP Tan SK, ed. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:43-56.
(30) Orth DS. Preservative-free (self-preserving) cosmetics. Insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus
Media. 2010:147-166.
(31) Orth DS. The keys to successful product preservation, Insights into Cosmetic Microbiology. Allured Bus
Media. 2010:27-110.
(32) Bauman HE. The HACCP concept and microbiological hazard categories. Food Technol. 1974 32(9):31,
32,34,74.
(33) Orth DS. Preservation of Cosmetic Products, Handbook of Cosmetic Microbiology. Marcel Dekker, Inc
1984:75-102.
(34) Orth DS. Introduction. Insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media. 2010.
(35) Brannan DK. The role of packaging in product preservation. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-
Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:227-242.
(36) Orth DS. Cosmetic Microbiology: the Future. Handbook of Cosmetic Microbiology. Marcel Dekker, Inc
1984:521-582.
(37) Leistner L, Gorris LGM. Food preservation by hurdle technology. Trends Food Sci Technol. 1995 6(2):41-
46. doi:10.1016/S0924-2244(00)88941-4
(38) Yang E, Fan L, Yan J, et al. Influence of culture media, pH and temperature on growth and
bacteriocin production of bacteriocinogenic lactic acid bacteria. AMB Expr. 2018 8(1):10. doi:10.1186/
s13568-018-0536-0
(39) Enigl DC, Sorrells KM. Water activity and self-preserving formulas. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds.
Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc
1997:45-73.
(40) Yablonski J. Risk factor assessment of anhydrous/atypical cosmetic products. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS,
eds. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc
1997:133-151.

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