517 Evolution and Challenges of Sustainability
(41) Methodology Subcommittee of the CTFA Microbiology Committee. Microbiological Limit Guideline for
Cosmetics and Toiletries. Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1985:1-2.
(42) MacGregor DR, Elliker PR. A comparison of some properties of strains of Pseudomonas aeruginosa sensitive
and resistant to quaternary ammonium compounds. Can J Microbiol. 1958 4(5):499-503. doi:10.1139/
m58-054
(43) Orth DS, Anderson CML, Smith DK, Milstein SR. Synergism of preservative system components: use of
the survival curve slope method to demonstrate anti-Pseudomonas synergy of methyl paraben and acrylic
acid homopolymer/copolymers in vitro. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989 40:347-365.
(44) Kabara JJ. Chelating agents as preservative potentiators. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-Free
and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:209-226.
(45) Kabara JJ. Food-grade chemicals in a systems approach to cosmetic evaluation. In: Kabara JJ, ed. Cosmetic
and Drug Preservation, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1984:339-356.
(46) Denyer S, Barryhugo W, Harding V. Synergy in preservative combinations. Int J Pharm. 1985 25(3):245-
253. doi:10.1016/0378-5173(85)90166-8
(47) Cozzoli O. The role of surfactants in self-preserving cosmetic formulas. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds.
Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:75-118.
(48) Scott EM, Gorman SP. Chemical disinfectants, antiseptics and preservatives. In: Hugo WB, Russell AD,
eds. Pharmaceutical Microbiology. 4th ed. Blackwell Scientific Publications 1988:226-252.
(49) Kabara JJ. Fatty acids and esters as multifunctional components. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-
Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:119-137.
(50) Freese E, Sheu CW, Galliers E. Function of lipophilic acids as antimicrobial food additives. Nature.
1973 241(5388):321-325. doi:10.1038/241321a0
(51) Branen AL, Davidson PM. Use of antioxidants in self-preserving cosmetic and drug formulations. In:
Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs: Principles and Practice.
Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:159-179.
(52) Davidson PM, Brekke CJ, Branen AL. Antimicrobial activity of butylated hydroxyanisole, tertiary
butylhydroquinone, and potassium sorbate in combination. Journal of Food Science. Presentation at the
39th Annual Meeting of the Institute of Food Technologist, St. Louis, Missouri (June l0–13, 1979).
1981 46(1):314-316. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2621.1981.tb14596.x
(53) Rico-Muñoz E, Davidson PM. Effect of corn oil and casein on the antimicrobial activity of phenolic
antioxidants. J Food Sci. 1983 48(4):1284-1288. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2621.1983.tb09212.x
(54) Kabara JJ. Aroma chemicals as preservatives, Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and
Drugs: Principles and Practice. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics
and Drugs: Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:181-208.
(55) Strum W. Deosafe fragrances: fragrances with deodorizing properties. Cosmet Toiletr. 1979 94:35-48.
(56) Scrase J. The deo cologne: new way to sell fragrance. Drug Cosmet Ind. 1982 130(46),47:78.
(57) Orth DS. Cosmetic Products That Prevent, Correct, or Conceal Conditions Caused by Microorganisms. Handbook
of Cosmetic Microbiology. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1993:221-323.
(58) Houstein UF, Herrmann J, Hoppe U, Engel W, Sauermann G. Growth inhibition of coryneform bacteria
by mixture of three natural products—farnesol, glyceryl monolaurate and phenoxyethanol. J Soc Cosmet
Chem. 1993 44:211-220.
(59) Evans SM, Cowan MM. Plant products as antimicrobial agents. In: Orth DS, Kabara JJ, Denyer SP, Tan
SK, eds. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:205-231.
(60) Nieto G, Ros G, Castillo J. Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis, L.):
a review. Medicines (Basel). 2018 5(3):1-13. doi:10.3390/medicines5030098
(61) Hamilton-Miller JM. Antimicrobial properties of tea (Camellia sinensis L.). Antimicrob Agents Chemother.
1995 39(11):2375-2377. doi:10.1128/AAC.39.11.2375
(62) Hamilton-Miller JMT. Anti-cariogenic properties of tea (Camellia sinensis). J Med Microbiol.
2001 50(4):299-302. doi:10.1099/0022-1317-50-4-299
518 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(63) Ciccognani DT. Cosmetic preservation using enzymes. In: Orth DS, Kabara JJ, Denyer SP, Tan SK, eds.
Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:185-203.
(64) Stiles ME. Bacteriocins produced by Leuconostoc species. J Dairy Sci. 1994 77(9):2718-2724. doi:10.3168/
jds.S0022-0302(94)77214-3
(65) Zhong X, Wang G, Li F, et al. Immunomodulatory effect and biological significance of β-glucans.
Pharmaceutics. 2023 15(6):1615. doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics15061615
(66) Skowron K, Bauza-Kaszewska J, Kraszewska Z, et al. Human skin microbiome: impact of intrinsic and
extrinsic factors on skin microbiota. Microorganisms. 2021 9(3):543. doi:10.3390/microorganisms9030543
(67) Gallo RL. Human Skin is the largest epithelial surface for interaction with microbes. J Invest Dermatol.
2017 137(6):1213-1214. doi:10.1016/j.jid.2016.11.045
(68) Dimitriu PA, Iker B, Malik K, Leung H, Mohn WW, Hillebrand GG. New insights into the intrinsic and
extrinsic factors that shape the human skin microbiome. mBio. 2019 10(4):1-14. doi:10.1128/mBio.00839-19
(69) Cundell AM. Microbial ecology of the human skin. Microb Ecol. 2018 76(1):113-120. doi:10.1007/
s00248-016-0789-6
(70) Andersen BM. Prevention and Control of Infections in Hospitals: Practice and Theory. 1st ed Springer Nature
2018:337-437.
(71) Patra V, Byrne SN, Wolf P. The skin microbiome: is it affected by UV-induced immune suppression?
Front Microbiol. 2016 7:1235. doi:10.3389/fmicb.2016.01235
(72) Grice EA, Kong HH, Conlan S, et al. Topographical and temporal diversity of the human skin
microbiome. Science. 2009 324(5931):1190-1192. doi:10.1126/science.1171700
(73) Samaras S, Hoptroff M. The microbiome of healthy skin. In: Dayan N, ed. Skin Microbiome Handbook:
from Basic Research to Product Development. 1st ed. Scrivener Publishing LLC 2020:3-32.
(74) Byrd AL, Belkaid Y, Segre JA. The human skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol. 2018 16(3):143-155.
doi:10.1038/nrmicro.2017.157
(75) Natarelli N, Gahoonia N, Sivamani RK. Bacteriophages and the microbiome in dermatology: the
role of the phageome and a potential therapeutic strategy. Int J Mol Sci. 2023 24(3):2095. doi:10.3390/
ijms24032695
(76) Shimamori Y, Mitsunaka S, Yamashita H, et al. Staphylococcal phage in combination with Staphylococcus
epidermidis as a potential treatment for Staphylococcus aureus-associated atopic dermatitis and
suppressor of phage-resistant mutants. Viruses. 2020 13(1):7. doi:10.3390/v13010007
(77) Barnard E, Shi B, Kang D, Craft N, Li H. The balance of metagenomic elements shapes the skin
microbiome in acne and health. Sci Rep. 2016 6:39491. doi:10.1038/srep39491
(78) Orth DS. Normal microflora of human skin. Insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media.
2010:211-239.
(79) Swaney MH, Kalan LR. Living in your skin: microbes, molecules, and mechanisms. Infect Immun.
2021 89(4):1-18. doi:10.1128/IAI.00695-20
(80) Fournière M, Latire T, Souak D, Feuilloley MGJ, Bedoux G. Staphylococcus epidermidis and
Cutibacterium acnes: Two major sentinels of skin microbiota and the influence of cosmetics.
Microorganisms. 2020 8(11):1752. doi:10.3390/microorganisms8111752
(81) Orth DS. The probiotic nature of normal microflora. Cosmet Toiletr. 2008 123(8):41,42:44-46.
(82) Flowers L, Grice EA. The skin microbiota: balancing risk and reward. Cell Host Microbe. 2020 28(2):190-
200. doi:10.1016/j.chom.2020.06.017
(83) Borkowski AW, Gallo RL. The coordinated response of the physical and antimicrobial peptide barriers
of the skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2011 131(2):285-287. doi:10.1038/jid.2010.360
(84) Kiatsurayanon C, Ogawa H, Niyonsaba F. The role of host defense peptide human β-defensins in the
maintenance of skin barriers. Curr Pharm Des. 2018 24(10):1092-1099. doi:10.2174/13816128246661803
27164445
(85) Becknell B, Spencer JD. A Review of Ribonuclease 7’s Structure, Regulation, and Contributions to Host
Defense. Int J Mol Sci. 2016 17(3):423. doi:10.3390/ijms17030423
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Volume 75 No 5 - Sustainability Special Issue - Open Access resources

Extracted Text (may have errors)

517 Evolution and Challenges of Sustainability
(41) Methodology Subcommittee of the CTFA Microbiology Committee. Microbiological Limit Guideline for
Cosmetics and Toiletries. Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1985:1-2.
(42) MacGregor DR, Elliker PR. A comparison of some properties of strains of Pseudomonas aeruginosa sensitive
and resistant to quaternary ammonium compounds. Can J Microbiol. 1958 4(5):499-503. doi:10.1139/
m58-054
(43) Orth DS, Anderson CML, Smith DK, Milstein SR. Synergism of preservative system components: use of
the survival curve slope method to demonstrate anti-Pseudomonas synergy of methyl paraben and acrylic
acid homopolymer/copolymers in vitro. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989 40:347-365.
(44) Kabara JJ. Chelating agents as preservative potentiators. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-Free
and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:209-226.
(45) Kabara JJ. Food-grade chemicals in a systems approach to cosmetic evaluation. In: Kabara JJ, ed. Cosmetic
and Drug Preservation, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1984:339-356.
(46) Denyer S, Barryhugo W, Harding V. Synergy in preservative combinations. Int J Pharm. 1985 25(3):245-
253. doi:10.1016/0378-5173(85)90166-8
(47) Cozzoli O. The role of surfactants in self-preserving cosmetic formulas. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds.
Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:75-118.
(48) Scott EM, Gorman SP. Chemical disinfectants, antiseptics and preservatives. In: Hugo WB, Russell AD,
eds. Pharmaceutical Microbiology. 4th ed. Blackwell Scientific Publications 1988:226-252.
(49) Kabara JJ. Fatty acids and esters as multifunctional components. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-
Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs, Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:119-137.
(50) Freese E, Sheu CW, Galliers E. Function of lipophilic acids as antimicrobial food additives. Nature.
1973 241(5388):321-325. doi:10.1038/241321a0
(51) Branen AL, Davidson PM. Use of antioxidants in self-preserving cosmetic and drug formulations. In:
Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs: Principles and Practice.
Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:159-179.
(52) Davidson PM, Brekke CJ, Branen AL. Antimicrobial activity of butylated hydroxyanisole, tertiary
butylhydroquinone, and potassium sorbate in combination. Journal of Food Science. Presentation at the
39th Annual Meeting of the Institute of Food Technologist, St. Louis, Missouri (June l0–13, 1979).
1981 46(1):314-316. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2621.1981.tb14596.x
(53) Rico-Muñoz E, Davidson PM. Effect of corn oil and casein on the antimicrobial activity of phenolic
antioxidants. J Food Sci. 1983 48(4):1284-1288. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2621.1983.tb09212.x
(54) Kabara JJ. Aroma chemicals as preservatives, Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and
Drugs: Principles and Practice. In: Kabara JJ, Orth DS, eds. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics
and Drugs: Principles and Practice. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1997:181-208.
(55) Strum W. Deosafe fragrances: fragrances with deodorizing properties. Cosmet Toiletr. 1979 94:35-48.
(56) Scrase J. The deo cologne: new way to sell fragrance. Drug Cosmet Ind. 1982 130(46),47:78.
(57) Orth DS. Cosmetic Products That Prevent, Correct, or Conceal Conditions Caused by Microorganisms. Handbook
of Cosmetic Microbiology. Marcel Dekker, Inc 1993:221-323.
(58) Houstein UF, Herrmann J, Hoppe U, Engel W, Sauermann G. Growth inhibition of coryneform bacteria
by mixture of three natural products—farnesol, glyceryl monolaurate and phenoxyethanol. J Soc Cosmet
Chem. 1993 44:211-220.
(59) Evans SM, Cowan MM. Plant products as antimicrobial agents. In: Orth DS, Kabara JJ, Denyer SP, Tan
SK, eds. Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:205-231.
(60) Nieto G, Ros G, Castillo J. Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis, L.):
a review. Medicines (Basel). 2018 5(3):1-13. doi:10.3390/medicines5030098
(61) Hamilton-Miller JM. Antimicrobial properties of tea (Camellia sinensis L.). Antimicrob Agents Chemother.
1995 39(11):2375-2377. doi:10.1128/AAC.39.11.2375
(62) Hamilton-Miller JMT. Anti-cariogenic properties of tea (Camellia sinensis). J Med Microbiol.
2001 50(4):299-302. doi:10.1099/0022-1317-50-4-299
518 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(63) Ciccognani DT. Cosmetic preservation using enzymes. In: Orth DS, Kabara JJ, Denyer SP, Tan SK, eds.
Cosmetic and Drug Microbiology. Informa Healthcare USA, Inc 2006:185-203.
(64) Stiles ME. Bacteriocins produced by Leuconostoc species. J Dairy Sci. 1994 77(9):2718-2724. doi:10.3168/
jds.S0022-0302(94)77214-3
(65) Zhong X, Wang G, Li F, et al. Immunomodulatory effect and biological significance of β-glucans.
Pharmaceutics. 2023 15(6):1615. doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics15061615
(66) Skowron K, Bauza-Kaszewska J, Kraszewska Z, et al. Human skin microbiome: impact of intrinsic and
extrinsic factors on skin microbiota. Microorganisms. 2021 9(3):543. doi:10.3390/microorganisms9030543
(67) Gallo RL. Human Skin is the largest epithelial surface for interaction with microbes. J Invest Dermatol.
2017 137(6):1213-1214. doi:10.1016/j.jid.2016.11.045
(68) Dimitriu PA, Iker B, Malik K, Leung H, Mohn WW, Hillebrand GG. New insights into the intrinsic and
extrinsic factors that shape the human skin microbiome. mBio. 2019 10(4):1-14. doi:10.1128/mBio.00839-19
(69) Cundell AM. Microbial ecology of the human skin. Microb Ecol. 2018 76(1):113-120. doi:10.1007/
s00248-016-0789-6
(70) Andersen BM. Prevention and Control of Infections in Hospitals: Practice and Theory. 1st ed Springer Nature
2018:337-437.
(71) Patra V, Byrne SN, Wolf P. The skin microbiome: is it affected by UV-induced immune suppression?
Front Microbiol. 2016 7:1235. doi:10.3389/fmicb.2016.01235
(72) Grice EA, Kong HH, Conlan S, et al. Topographical and temporal diversity of the human skin
microbiome. Science. 2009 324(5931):1190-1192. doi:10.1126/science.1171700
(73) Samaras S, Hoptroff M. The microbiome of healthy skin. In: Dayan N, ed. Skin Microbiome Handbook:
from Basic Research to Product Development. 1st ed. Scrivener Publishing LLC 2020:3-32.
(74) Byrd AL, Belkaid Y, Segre JA. The human skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol. 2018 16(3):143-155.
doi:10.1038/nrmicro.2017.157
(75) Natarelli N, Gahoonia N, Sivamani RK. Bacteriophages and the microbiome in dermatology: the
role of the phageome and a potential therapeutic strategy. Int J Mol Sci. 2023 24(3):2095. doi:10.3390/
ijms24032695
(76) Shimamori Y, Mitsunaka S, Yamashita H, et al. Staphylococcal phage in combination with Staphylococcus
epidermidis as a potential treatment for Staphylococcus aureus-associated atopic dermatitis and
suppressor of phage-resistant mutants. Viruses. 2020 13(1):7. doi:10.3390/v13010007
(77) Barnard E, Shi B, Kang D, Craft N, Li H. The balance of metagenomic elements shapes the skin
microbiome in acne and health. Sci Rep. 2016 6:39491. doi:10.1038/srep39491
(78) Orth DS. Normal microflora of human skin. Insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media.
2010:211-239.
(79) Swaney MH, Kalan LR. Living in your skin: microbes, molecules, and mechanisms. Infect Immun.
2021 89(4):1-18. doi:10.1128/IAI.00695-20
(80) Fournière M, Latire T, Souak D, Feuilloley MGJ, Bedoux G. Staphylococcus epidermidis and
Cutibacterium acnes: Two major sentinels of skin microbiota and the influence of cosmetics.
Microorganisms. 2020 8(11):1752. doi:10.3390/microorganisms8111752
(81) Orth DS. The probiotic nature of normal microflora. Cosmet Toiletr. 2008 123(8):41,42:44-46.
(82) Flowers L, Grice EA. The skin microbiota: balancing risk and reward. Cell Host Microbe. 2020 28(2):190-
200. doi:10.1016/j.chom.2020.06.017
(83) Borkowski AW, Gallo RL. The coordinated response of the physical and antimicrobial peptide barriers
of the skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2011 131(2):285-287. doi:10.1038/jid.2010.360
(84) Kiatsurayanon C, Ogawa H, Niyonsaba F. The role of host defense peptide human β-defensins in the
maintenance of skin barriers. Curr Pharm Des. 2018 24(10):1092-1099. doi:10.2174/13816128246661803
27164445
(85) Becknell B, Spencer JD. A Review of Ribonuclease 7’s Structure, Regulation, and Contributions to Host
Defense. Int J Mol Sci. 2016 17(3):423. doi:10.3390/ijms17030423

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