Editorial: The Current State of Sustainable Practices in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products

338 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
SUMMARY
I sincerely hope that you will not restrict your reading to a skim through this brief
editorial, but that you proceed to read the articles. The content presented by these authors
summarizes hard-won knowledge, experience, and wisdom, and it provides a launching pad
for the next chapter of sustainable personal health through improved cosmetic products
and practices.
I do hope that you enjoy this issue and, like me, you will be intellectually stimulated by
the intensity and breadth of these reviews.
Robert Y. Lochhead
Guest Editor
REFERENCES
(1) Zdatny S. The French Hygiene Offensive of the 1950s: A Critical Moment in the History of Manners. J
Mod Hist. 2012 84(4):897-932. doi:10.1086/667596, Numat :4. https://www-journals-uchicago-edu.lynx.
lib.usm.edu/doi/full/10.1086/667596#xref_fn18. Accessed 11/26/2024.
(2) Weber E. La Fin des Terroirs: la Modernisation de la France Rurale. Fayard 1983:1870-1914.
(3) Lifebuoy. https://www.hul.co.in/brands/personal-care/lifebuoy/#:∼:text=Lifebuoy%20is%20a%20brand
% cholera%20in%20late%20Victorian%20England. Accessed 11/26/2024.
(4) JAMA. CARBOLIC ACID AND ITS DANGER. JAMA. 1904 XLIII(13):897. doi:10.1001/
jama.1904.02500130045010
(5) Ariès P, Duby G 1987. Histoire de la vie privée, tome 5. De la Première Guerre mondiale à nos jours. Seuil.

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338 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
SUMMARY
I sincerely hope that you will not restrict your reading to a skim through this brief
editorial, but that you proceed to read the articles. The content presented by these authors
summarizes hard-won knowledge, experience, and wisdom, and it provides a launching pad
for the next chapter of sustainable personal health through improved cosmetic products
and practices.
I do hope that you enjoy this issue and, like me, you will be intellectually stimulated by
the intensity and breadth of these reviews.
Robert Y. Lochhead
Guest Editor
REFERENCES
(1) Zdatny S. The French Hygiene Offensive of the 1950s: A Critical Moment in the History of Manners. J
Mod Hist. 2012 84(4):897-932. doi:10.1086/667596, Numat :4. https://www-journals-uchicago-edu.lynx.
lib.usm.edu/doi/full/10.1086/667596#xref_fn18. Accessed 11/26/2024.
(2) Weber E. La Fin des Terroirs: la Modernisation de la France Rurale. Fayard 1983:1870-1914.
(3) Lifebuoy. https://www.hul.co.in/brands/personal-care/lifebuoy/#:∼:text=Lifebuoy%20is%20a%20brand
% cholera%20in%20late%20Victorian%20England. Accessed 11/26/2024.
(4) JAMA. CARBOLIC ACID AND ITS DANGER. JAMA. 1904 XLIII(13):897. doi:10.1001/
jama.1904.02500130045010
(5) Ariès P, Duby G 1987. Histoire de la vie privée, tome 5. De la Première Guerre mondiale à nos jours. Seuil.

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339
J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.5, 339–352 (September/October 2024)
*Address all correspondence to Randy Wickett, wicketrr@ucmail.uc.edu
The Aging Skin Barrier
RANDALL WICKETT AND MARTHA TATE
James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohio, USA (R.W.)
Tate Science LLC., Atlanta, Georgia, USA (M.T.)
Accepted for publication August 08, 2024.
Synopsis
It is well known that the population is aging as life spans increase, leading to both challenges and opportunities
for the cosmetic industry. There are many reviews that discuss the effect of aging and photoaging on the
dermal matrix or on the skin as a whole. The purpose of the current publication is to specifically review the
effect of age on the barrier function of the skin. After a brief discussion of the structure and formation of the
stratum corneum (SC) barrier we review the literature on the effect of age on the barrier and its function.
Observed increases in corneocyte size and lipid profiles are reviewed along with the decreasing rate of SC
turnover. The conflicting literature data on the effect of age on barrier function measured by transepidermal
water loss are discussed in detail. The effect of age on skin permeation and susceptibility to skin irritation are
also reviewed and the somewhat surprising result that both skin permeation and susceptibility to irritants
seem to decrease with age is discussed. The literature indicates that that the rate of SC turnover decreases with
age as does the rate of barrier repair after barrier disruption.
FORMATION AND STRUCTURE OF THE SKIN BARRIER
While there are previous reviews1–4 detailing the effect of aging and photoaging on the
dermal matrix or on the skin as a whole,4 here the focus is on the barrier function of the
skin, including permeation and susceptibility to irritants. Skin barrier function resides
primarily in the epidermis and barrier function is a vital function of the epidermis.5 Layers
of the epidermis are shown schematically in Figure 1.
The epidermal barrier defends the body from water loss to the environment, absorption
of noxious chemicals from the environment and microbial infection. These defensive
functions depend critically on the top layer, the SC, and are thought to be integrated with
SC formation and homeostasis.5,6
For 40 years the most common model of the SC barrier has been the “bricks and mortar”
model originally proposed by Elias.7 This model is based on the observation that corneocytes
are surrounded by the extracellular lipids of the SC and the corneocytes are modeled as
bricks and the lipids as mortar. Small, moderately hydrophobic molecules are thought to
penetrate the SC by diffusing through the extracellular lipids, winding their way around
the corneocytes.8 Harding has described an updated version of the bricks and mortar

340 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
model that includes the presence of the desmosomes that hold SC cells together prior to
desquamation and discusses the role of natural moisturizing factor in SC function.9 This
model is illustrated in Figure 2.
The SC primarily forms in the stratum granulosum (SG), named for the granules that
appear in the cells comprised of keratohyalin granules10 composed of protein and lamellar
bodies that contain lipids.11,12 In the SG: the nucleus is digested, the cytoplasm disappears,
and the lipids that will eventually form the SC barrier are released into the intercellular
space.7,13–15 Epidermal keratins aggregate to form microfibrils16 inside the corneocytes
under the influence of filaggrin from the keratohyalin granules.17–19 The keratinocyte cell
membrane is replaced by the corneocyte cell envelope made of cross-linked protein from
the cytoplasm and keratohyalin granules and lipids that are covalently attached to its
Figure 1. Diagram showing layers of the epidermis. Illustration by Robin M. Wickett.
Figure 2. Schematic of the “bricks and mortar” model for human stratum corneum illustrating the corneocyte
“bricks,” the intercellular lipid “mortar” and the desmosomes connecting the corneocytes.

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336 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
thin, aesthetically pleasing, lubricating layer that improves feel, aids with grooming, helps
reduce abrasion, and can lessen fiber breakage. While these are all highly desirable benefits
(and which most consumers likely could not do without), in the marketing world there
is always the need for a new story. Accordingly, messages become increasingly grander
attractive sounding—but non-functional—ingredients are touted, false promises get made,
the fundamental science takes a backseat, and the credibility of our industry suffers. It is
hoped that this article will help emphasize and reinforce the differences between science and
marketing, as well as the difference between scientific language versus consumer language.
THE DEVELOPMENT OF INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS TO MEET PERSONAL SUSTAINABILITY NEEDS
Delivering Sustainable Solutions to Improve Wellbeing. As sustainability becomes a top priority
in the beauty industry, the challenge lies in developing eco-friendly materials that meet
performance standards. Innovative solutions are emerging, and the authors from Lipotech
and Lubrizol describe the processes involved in bringing novel active ingredients from
concepts to reality. The new products are THW biotech ingredient, tetrapeptide-1, and
stevia rebaudiana extract, and two new rheology modifiers, starch acetate/adipate (SSA)
and tara gum. These ingredients address sustainability through four key pillars: renewable
carbon and biodegradability, carbon emission reduction, eco-designed processes, and
sustainable sourcing.
Crucially, these advancements maintain exceptional performance in beauty applications, as
demonstrated through rigorous evaluations. By integrating innovation with environmental
responsibility, the beauty industry can meet market demands for high-performance
products while advancing sustainability goals. This marks a significant step toward a more
sustainable future for beauty innovation.
THE FUTURE OF PRODUCTS THAT ARE MICROBIOLOGICALLY SAFE AND EFFECTIVE
The Evolution of Cosmetic Preservation and the Microbiological Challenges Posed by Sustainability. In
a detailed, comprehensive review, Dr. Orth explains how the landscape of cosmetic
preservation has undergone significant transformation over the past 75 years, reflecting
advancements in science, sustainability, and consumer demands. Originally focused on
preventing product contamination, preservation strategies now prioritize sustainability,
environmental protection, and the health of the skin microbiome.
Key innovations include hurdle technology, which has enabled reduced use of traditional
preservatives and the creation of preservative-free products. Multifunctional ingredients
with antimicrobial properties are increasingly replacing controversial preservatives, such
as parabens and formaldehyde donors, driven by concerns over safety and consumer
preferences. Modern preservative efficacy testing methods have also evolved, offering rapid,
eco-friendly alternatives that reduce waste and environmental impact.
Sustainability is at the forefront of these changes. The cosmetic industry recognizes the
need to minimize preservatives’ potential contribution to antimicrobial resistance and
their adverse effects on ecosystems. Efforts to develop natural, sustainable preservation
systems that work harmoniously with the skin microbiome are accelerating. Research into
the microbiome’s role in maintaining skin health is shaping the future of preservation,

337 THE STATE OF SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES
with approaches like probiotics, prebiotics, and phages showing promise for maintaining
microbial diversity and preventing dysbiosis.
As the industry continues to innovate, the goal is clear: to create products that are not only
safe and effective but also environmentally sustainable and supportive of the skin’s natural
ecosystem. This evolution underscores a commitment to beauty that enhances well-being
while preserving both the environment and the delicate balance of the skin microbiome.
SCENT
The Role of Personal Scent. In a fascinating article, Dr. Giacomoni and Dr. Rialdi reveal that
olfactory signals play a far more profound role in our lives than we realize. Beyond masking
unpleasant odors, fragrances can uplift our mood, sharpen our focus, reduce anxiety, and
even boost vitality. These effects stem from fragrant molecules binding to receptors in the
olfactory system, triggering neurological responses through the release of neuropeptides.
Intriguingly, some olfactory signals are subliminal—undetectable by our sense of smell yet
capable of influencing physiological and behavioral responses. These subtle signals, such as
pheromone-like molecules, can affect everything from mother-infant bonding to fertility
and even the synchronization of menstrual cycles among women living together.
Properly utilized, pheromone-mimetic substances have demonstrated the potential to
enhance mood, acceptance, and emotional connections on both individual and collective
levels. As the complexities of olfactory communication are uncovered, the door will
be opened to a deeper understanding of its profound impact on human behavior and
relationships, revealing it as an integral and essential part of our existence.
EFFECTIVE GLOBAL COMMUNICATION
INCI Nomenclature – International Harmony. Effective global communication and
standardization is greatly aided by accepted common lexicology and standard terminology.
Joanne Nikitakis, Senior Director of Cosmetic Chemistry for the Personal Care Products
Council describes how cosmetic scientists rely on precise ingredient identification—a process
made possible by the globally recognized INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic
Ingredients) system. Established during the 1970s in response to regulatory demands,
INCI evolved from collaboration between industry chemists, regulatory authorities, and
scientific organizations, creating a standardized naming system that fosters product safety,
regulatory compliance, innovation, and global trade.
Over decades, the INCI system has expanded its scope, has achieved international
harmonization, and has streamlined ingredient identification across borders. While
it has been pivotal in enabling the cosmetic industry to innovate sustainably, common
misconceptions persist, such as assuming INCI names equate to ingredient safety or
regulatory approval. In reality, INCI is a naming framework, while safety assessments
remain the responsibility of manufacturers and independent scientific bodies.
As new processes and materials emerge, INCI continues to adapt, ensuring alignment with
evolving industry needs. This commitment to harmonized nomenclature supports sustainable
innovation, enhances consumer transparency, and upholds the integrity of ingredient selection
worldwide, ultimately benefiting all stakeholders in the global cosmetics market.

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