406 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(91) Rawlings AV, Harding CR, Watkinson A, Chandar P, Scott IR, Chap 13 Leyden J, Rawlings AV, eds.
Humectants in Skin Moisturization. 1st ed. Vol 2002 2002:245–266.
(92) Juncan AM, Moisă DG, Santini A, et al. Advantages of hyaluronic acid and its combination with other
bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021 26(15):4429. doi:10.3390/molecules26154429
(93) Celleno L. Topical urea in skincare: a review. Dermatol Ther. 2018 31(6):e12690. doi:10.1111/dth.12690
(94) Rawlings AV, Canestrari DA, Dobkowski B. Moisturizer technology versus clinical performance.
Dermatol Ther. 2004 17(suppl 1):49–56. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1006.x
(95) Berkey C, Kanno D, Mehling A, et al. Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the
biomechanical function of human stratum corneum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 42(6):605–614. doi:10.1111/
ics.12656
(96) Pennick G, Harrison S, Jones D, Rawlings AV. Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate on improvement
in stratum corneum water permeability barrier function as examined by the plastic occlusion stress test.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 32(4):304–312. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00604.x
(97) Levi K, Weber RJ, Do JQ, Dauskardt RH. Drying stress and damage processes in human stratum
corneum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 32(4):276–293. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00557.x
(98) Harding CR, Watkinson A, Rawlings AV, Scott IR. Dry skin, moisturization and corneodesmolysis. Int
J Cosmet Sci. 2000 22(1):21–52. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00001.x
(99) Rawlings AV, Chapt 7. The stratum corneum and aging. In: Farage MA, Miller KW, Maibach HI, eds.
Aging of Skin. Springer-Verlag 2010:56–75. doi:10.1007/978-3-540-89656-2_7
(100) Janssens M, van Smeden J, Gooris GS, et al. Lamellar lipid organization and ceramide composition in the
stratum corneum of patients with atopic eczema. J Invest Dermatol. 2011 131(10):2136–2138. doi:10.1038/
jid.2011.175
(101) Ibid Ref. 56.
(102) Thakoersing VS, van Smeden J, Boiten WA, et al. Modulation of stratum corneum lipid composition and
organization of human skin equivalents by specific medium supplements. Exp Dermatol. 2015 24(9):669–
674. doi:10.1111/exd.12740
(103) Berkers T, Visscher D, Gooris GS, Bouwstra JA. Topically applied ceramides interact with the
stratum corneum lipid matrix in compromised ex vivo skin. Pharm Res. 2018 35(3):48. doi:10.1007/
s11095-017-2288-y
(104) SK-Influx V A Skin-Identical Lipid Concentrate for Enhanced Skin Moisturization and protectionEvonik
Goldschmidt Technical Data Sheet, D 11/07.
(105) Yarova G, Lathrop WF, Mayes AE, et al. In vivo elongation of topically applied fatty acids from a range
of different topical skincare formulations. J Cosmet Sci. May/June 2023 74(3):188–199.
(106) Zhang Q, Flach CR, Mendelsohn R, et al. Topically applied ceramide accumulates in skin glyphs. Clin
Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 8:329–337. doi:10.2147/CCID.S83857
(107) Sahle FF, Wohlrab J, Neubert RHH. Controlled penetration of ceramides into and across the stratum
corneum using various types of microemulsions and formulation associated toxicity studies. Eur J Pharm
Biopharm. 2014 86(2):244–250. doi:10.1016/j.ejpb.2013.07.011
(108) Hubbard BA, Unger JG, Rohrich RJ. Reversal of skin aging with topical retinoids. Plast Reconstr Surg.
2014 133(4):481e–490e. doi:10.1097/PRS.0000000000000043
(109) Green BA, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids. Clin Dermatol.
2009 27(5):495–501. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.06.023
(110) Marques C, Hadjab F, Porcello A, et al. Mechanistic insights into the multiple functions of niacinamide:
therapeutic implications and cosmeceutical applications in functional skincare products. Antioxidants
(Basel). 2024 13(4):425. doi:10.3390/antiox13040425
(111) Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017 9(8):866.
doi:10.3390/nu9080866
(112) Park SJ. A comprehensive review of topical bakuchiol for the treatment of photoaging. J Integr Dermatol.
2022:1–22.
407 The Human Stratum Corneum
(113) Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene
expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 36(3):221–230.
doi:10.1111/ics.12117
(114) Choi HY, Lee YJ, Kim CM, Lee Y-M. Revolutionizing cosmetic ingredients: harnessing the power
of antioxidants, probiotics, plant extracts, and peptides in personal and skin care products. Cosmetics.
2024 11(5):157. doi:10.3390/cosmetics11050157
(115) Mauro TM. SC pH: measurements, origins and functions. In: Elias P, Feingold KR, eds. Skin Barrier.
Taylor &Francis Group 2006:223.
(116) Blaak J, Wohlfart R, Schürer NY. Treatment of Aged Skin with a pH 4 Skin Care Product Normalizes
Increased Skin Surface pH and Improves Barrier Function: Results of a Pilot Study. JCDSA. 2011 01(3):50–
58. doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2011.13009.
(117) Schmid-Wendtner MH, Korting HC. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006 19(6):296–302. doi:10.1159/000094670
(118) Ansari SA, Chapter 14. Skin pH and skin microflora. In: Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI, eds. Handbook
of Cosmetic Science and Technology. 4th ed. CRC Press 2014:163–173.
(119) Lambers H, Piessens S, Bloem A, Pronk H, Finkel P. Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is
beneficial for its resident flora. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2006 28(5):359–370. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
(120) Fluhr JW, Darlenski R, Lachmann N, et al. Infant epidermal skin physiology: adaptation after birth. Br J
Dermatol. British Association of Dermatologists. 2012 166(3):483–490. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10659.x
(121) Hachem J-P, Roelandt T, Schürer N, et al. Acute acidification of stratum corneum membrane domains
using polyhydroxyl acids improves lipid processing and inhibits degradation of corneodesmosomes. J
Invest Dermatol. 2010 130(2):500–510. doi:10.1038/jid.2009.249.
(122) Angelova-Fischer I, Fischer TW, Abels C, Zillikens D. Accelerated barrier recovery and enhancement of
the barrier integrity and properties by topical application of a pH 4 vs. a pH 5·8 water-in-oil emulsion
in aged skin. Br J Dermatol. 2018 179(2):471–477. doi:10.1111/bjd.16591
(123) Buraczewska I, Lodén M. Treatment of surfactant-damaged skin in humans with creams of different pH
values. Pharmacology. 2005 73(1):1–7. doi:10.1159/000081068
(124) Hawkins S, Dasgupta BR, Ananthapadmanabhan KP. Role of pH in skin cleansing. Int J Cosmet Sci.
2021 43(4):474–483. doi:10.1111/ics.12721
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Volume 75 No 5 - Sustainability Special Issue - Open Access resources

Extracted Text (may have errors)

406 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(91) Rawlings AV, Harding CR, Watkinson A, Chandar P, Scott IR, Chap 13 Leyden J, Rawlings AV, eds.
Humectants in Skin Moisturization. 1st ed. Vol 2002 2002:245–266.
(92) Juncan AM, Moisă DG, Santini A, et al. Advantages of hyaluronic acid and its combination with other
bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021 26(15):4429. doi:10.3390/molecules26154429
(93) Celleno L. Topical urea in skincare: a review. Dermatol Ther. 2018 31(6):e12690. doi:10.1111/dth.12690
(94) Rawlings AV, Canestrari DA, Dobkowski B. Moisturizer technology versus clinical performance.
Dermatol Ther. 2004 17(suppl 1):49–56. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1006.x
(95) Berkey C, Kanno D, Mehling A, et al. Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the
biomechanical function of human stratum corneum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 42(6):605–614. doi:10.1111/
ics.12656
(96) Pennick G, Harrison S, Jones D, Rawlings AV. Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate on improvement
in stratum corneum water permeability barrier function as examined by the plastic occlusion stress test.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 32(4):304–312. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00604.x
(97) Levi K, Weber RJ, Do JQ, Dauskardt RH. Drying stress and damage processes in human stratum
corneum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 32(4):276–293. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00557.x
(98) Harding CR, Watkinson A, Rawlings AV, Scott IR. Dry skin, moisturization and corneodesmolysis. Int
J Cosmet Sci. 2000 22(1):21–52. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00001.x
(99) Rawlings AV, Chapt 7. The stratum corneum and aging. In: Farage MA, Miller KW, Maibach HI, eds.
Aging of Skin. Springer-Verlag 2010:56–75. doi:10.1007/978-3-540-89656-2_7
(100) Janssens M, van Smeden J, Gooris GS, et al. Lamellar lipid organization and ceramide composition in the
stratum corneum of patients with atopic eczema. J Invest Dermatol. 2011 131(10):2136–2138. doi:10.1038/
jid.2011.175
(101) Ibid Ref. 56.
(102) Thakoersing VS, van Smeden J, Boiten WA, et al. Modulation of stratum corneum lipid composition and
organization of human skin equivalents by specific medium supplements. Exp Dermatol. 2015 24(9):669–
674. doi:10.1111/exd.12740
(103) Berkers T, Visscher D, Gooris GS, Bouwstra JA. Topically applied ceramides interact with the
stratum corneum lipid matrix in compromised ex vivo skin. Pharm Res. 2018 35(3):48. doi:10.1007/
s11095-017-2288-y
(104) SK-Influx V A Skin-Identical Lipid Concentrate for Enhanced Skin Moisturization and protectionEvonik
Goldschmidt Technical Data Sheet, D 11/07.
(105) Yarova G, Lathrop WF, Mayes AE, et al. In vivo elongation of topically applied fatty acids from a range
of different topical skincare formulations. J Cosmet Sci. May/June 2023 74(3):188–199.
(106) Zhang Q, Flach CR, Mendelsohn R, et al. Topically applied ceramide accumulates in skin glyphs. Clin
Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 8:329–337. doi:10.2147/CCID.S83857
(107) Sahle FF, Wohlrab J, Neubert RHH. Controlled penetration of ceramides into and across the stratum
corneum using various types of microemulsions and formulation associated toxicity studies. Eur J Pharm
Biopharm. 2014 86(2):244–250. doi:10.1016/j.ejpb.2013.07.011
(108) Hubbard BA, Unger JG, Rohrich RJ. Reversal of skin aging with topical retinoids. Plast Reconstr Surg.
2014 133(4):481e–490e. doi:10.1097/PRS.0000000000000043
(109) Green BA, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids. Clin Dermatol.
2009 27(5):495–501. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.06.023
(110) Marques C, Hadjab F, Porcello A, et al. Mechanistic insights into the multiple functions of niacinamide:
therapeutic implications and cosmeceutical applications in functional skincare products. Antioxidants
(Basel). 2024 13(4):425. doi:10.3390/antiox13040425
(111) Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017 9(8):866.
doi:10.3390/nu9080866
(112) Park SJ. A comprehensive review of topical bakuchiol for the treatment of photoaging. J Integr Dermatol.
2022:1–22.
407 The Human Stratum Corneum
(113) Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene
expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 36(3):221–230.
doi:10.1111/ics.12117
(114) Choi HY, Lee YJ, Kim CM, Lee Y-M. Revolutionizing cosmetic ingredients: harnessing the power
of antioxidants, probiotics, plant extracts, and peptides in personal and skin care products. Cosmetics.
2024 11(5):157. doi:10.3390/cosmetics11050157
(115) Mauro TM. SC pH: measurements, origins and functions. In: Elias P, Feingold KR, eds. Skin Barrier.
Taylor &Francis Group 2006:223.
(116) Blaak J, Wohlfart R, Schürer NY. Treatment of Aged Skin with a pH 4 Skin Care Product Normalizes
Increased Skin Surface pH and Improves Barrier Function: Results of a Pilot Study. JCDSA. 2011 01(3):50–
58. doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2011.13009.
(117) Schmid-Wendtner MH, Korting HC. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006 19(6):296–302. doi:10.1159/000094670
(118) Ansari SA, Chapter 14. Skin pH and skin microflora. In: Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI, eds. Handbook
of Cosmetic Science and Technology. 4th ed. CRC Press 2014:163–173.
(119) Lambers H, Piessens S, Bloem A, Pronk H, Finkel P. Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is
beneficial for its resident flora. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2006 28(5):359–370. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
(120) Fluhr JW, Darlenski R, Lachmann N, et al. Infant epidermal skin physiology: adaptation after birth. Br J
Dermatol. British Association of Dermatologists. 2012 166(3):483–490. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10659.x
(121) Hachem J-P, Roelandt T, Schürer N, et al. Acute acidification of stratum corneum membrane domains
using polyhydroxyl acids improves lipid processing and inhibits degradation of corneodesmosomes. J
Invest Dermatol. 2010 130(2):500–510. doi:10.1038/jid.2009.249.
(122) Angelova-Fischer I, Fischer TW, Abels C, Zillikens D. Accelerated barrier recovery and enhancement of
the barrier integrity and properties by topical application of a pH 4 vs. a pH 5·8 water-in-oil emulsion
in aged skin. Br J Dermatol. 2018 179(2):471–477. doi:10.1111/bjd.16591
(123) Buraczewska I, Lodén M. Treatment of surfactant-damaged skin in humans with creams of different pH
values. Pharmacology. 2005 73(1):1–7. doi:10.1159/000081068
(124) Hawkins S, Dasgupta BR, Ananthapadmanabhan KP. Role of pH in skin cleansing. Int J Cosmet Sci.
2021 43(4):474–483. doi:10.1111/ics.12721

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