The Role of Personal Scent

528 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
During his tenure at L’Oréal, as Head of the Department of Biology, and then as scientific
attaché to the Director of Applied Research, he built a record of achievement through
research on DNA damage and metabolic impairment induced by UV radiation as well as
on the positive effects of antioxidants.
Dr. Giacomoni was one of the founders of the European Society for Photobiology as well
as of the European Network for the Study of the Biology of Aging. He has authored 100+
publications and patents. He received his Ph.D., in biochemistry from Université Paris VI,
a Laurea in Atomic Physics from Università di Milano, and had Post-Doctoral Training at
Deutsches Krebsforschungszentrum, Heidelberg, at University of Wisconsin, Madison, WI
and at University of California, San Diego, CA.
Vincenzo Paolo Maria Rialdi is Managing and Technical Director of Vevy Europe,
an Italian company of research and production of specialized ingredients for dermo-
pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. He has been working for nearly four decades in the industry
during which time he has been worked in the areas of research and formulation.
He has authored 30+ publications and patents. For more than a decade has been Professor
on Contract at the Department of Pharmacy of the University of Genoa and holds positions
in several industry institutions. He has been a member of SCC since 1995.

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528 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
During his tenure at L’Oréal, as Head of the Department of Biology, and then as scientific
attaché to the Director of Applied Research, he built a record of achievement through
research on DNA damage and metabolic impairment induced by UV radiation as well as
on the positive effects of antioxidants.
Dr. Giacomoni was one of the founders of the European Society for Photobiology as well
as of the European Network for the Study of the Biology of Aging. He has authored 100+
publications and patents. He received his Ph.D., in biochemistry from Université Paris VI,
a Laurea in Atomic Physics from Università di Milano, and had Post-Doctoral Training at
Deutsches Krebsforschungszentrum, Heidelberg, at University of Wisconsin, Madison, WI
and at University of California, San Diego, CA.
Vincenzo Paolo Maria Rialdi is Managing and Technical Director of Vevy Europe,
an Italian company of research and production of specialized ingredients for dermo-
pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. He has been working for nearly four decades in the industry
during which time he has been worked in the areas of research and formulation.
He has authored 30+ publications and patents. For more than a decade has been Professor
on Contract at the Department of Pharmacy of the University of Genoa and holds positions
in several industry institutions. He has been a member of SCC since 1995.

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526 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
osmostenicizing elements identified in human-specific acidophilic microflora cultures.
Both exert their function at the subliminal level and therefore should be included in target
products in minimal amounts so to remain below the threshold of perception.
The olfactory signals released by the woman change with her fertility status and the
woman’s perception by the man varies accordingly. The positive perception of women
by men can be maintained by providing the woman personal care products that contain
female pheromones. These pheromones will be sustainably released overtime by the woman
and will generate a constant olfactory signal. It has been handed down that this was already
understood by the women of the Middle Ages who used their vaginal fluids to perfume
their cheeks.
The woman exposed to male pheromones is more confident, less confused, less depressed,
and less angry and is therefore in an ideal state to react positively to any type of human
interaction. These observations have been confirmed in a double-blind study carried out
for five months between 2000 and 2001 with 26 stable heterosexual couples having lived
together for at least five years, aged between 25 and 45, in good general health conditions,
not under drug treatment, who did commit not to change their lifestyle habits.10–16 The
synthetic substitutes of male and female human pheromones or their placebos were added
to a moisturizing emulsion and to a deodorant gel. Males received either placebos (P) or
products with male pheromone MP, and females received either placebo (P) or products
with female pheromones (FP). They were applied on skin areas daily, once, or more often,
according to the free choice of the participants. The test was carried out between October
and February in order to avoid the influence of pollen and other products such as solar
products that could affect the results. Every month the applied product was changed. The
chronology of application was:
1 2nd 3 4th st rd month P/P month P/MF month FP/MP month: :::F P month P/P /:5th
The aim of the research was to verify if, and to what extent, the two substitutes constitute
and enhance the natural osmostenicizing compound in a pheromonic sense. The results
show that the substances used had a remarkable effect when they were simultaneously
administered to both members of the couple. As a matter of fact, the interpersonal
relationship within a couples, assessed according to the positive evaluation of the partner’s
scent seems to be increase in the month when the male partner applies male pheromones,
and the female partner applies female pheromones. The positive effect of balanced overload
therefore confirms that well-balanced pairs are normally in pheromonal harmony.
CONCLUSION
Olfactory signals are an integral and fundamental part of our existence. The examples
could be dozens, from the interaction and recognition of the mother-baby, to the increase
or decrease of fertility, to the alignment of the menstrual period between isolated women
living together.
The supplement of pheromone-mimetic substances, when properly operated, has shown to
be of support in both sexes being able to contribute to an improvement on an individual
and collective basis in terms of mood, acceptance, relationship, and emotional.

527 THE ROLE OF PERSONAL SCENT
REFERENCES
(1) Roberts SC, Gosling LM, Carter V, Petrie M. MHC-correlated odour preferences in humans and the use
of oral contraceptives. Proc Biol Sci. 2008 December 7 275(1652):2715–2722. doi:10.1098/rspb.2008.0825
(2) Miller G, Tybur JM, Jordan BD. Ovulatory cycle effects on tip earnings by lap dancers: economic evidence
for human estrus?☆ Evol Hum Behav. 2007 28(6):375–381. doi:10.1016/j.evolhumbehav.2007.06.002
(3) Kuukasjarvi S. Attractiveness of women’s body odors over the menstrual cycle: the role of oral
contraceptives and receiver sex. Behav Ecol. 2004 15(4):579–584. doi:10.1093/beheco/arh050
(4) BBC News, HEALTH. The magic of sexual attraction published 2020. News.bbc.co.uk. http://news.
bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/236046.stm. Accessed December 9, 2020.
(5) Relata Tecnica Web site http://www.relata.info, Issues, Articles of 2000 International Electronic Journal
on Dermopharmacological Research. Dermopharmaceutical Technology and Related Cosmetic Subjects
1 Y2K MAN AND PHEROMONAL COMMUNICATION F. Ligabue Stricker Teacher of Human
Ecology Faculty of Science. University of Turin. Italy XIII Seminario Vevy Europe.
(6) Birnbaum S, Birnbaum GE, Ein-Dor T. Can contraceptive pill affect future offspring’s health? The
implications of using hormonal birth control for human evolution. Evol Psychol Sci. 2017 3(2):89–96.
doi:10.1007/s40806-016-0074-4
(7) Stoddart DM. Human odor culture: a zoological perspective. In: Van Toller S, Dodd GH, eds. Perfumery:
the Psychology and Biology of Fragrance. Champman &Hall 1988:3–17.
(8) Friebely J, Rako S. Pheromonal influences on sociosexual behavior in postmenopausal women. J Sex Res.
2004 41(4):372–380. doi:10.1080/00224490409552244
(9) Tamagawa A, Gerlinskaya LA, Nagatomi R, Moshkin MP. Female Pheromone and Physical Exercise
Improve Endocrine Status in Elderly Japanese Men. Anti-Aging Med. 2008 5(6):57–62. doi:10.3793/
jaam.5.57
(10) Bonetto A, Mariani E, Rialdi VPM. Studi Preliminari Sulla Potenziale Attività Feromonica di Agenti
Fissativi dell’Odore Impiegati in Formulazioni Cosmetiche [University of Genoa Experimental Thesis] -
Degree Course in Pharmacy 2001.
(11) Goethe JW. Die Wahlverwandtschaften [Elective Affinities]. Wegner Verlang 1809.
(12) Süskind P 1985. Das Parfum: die Geschichte eines Mörders [Perfume: the story of a murderer]. Diogenes
Verlag AG, Zurigo.
(13) Lattes Coifmann I 2001. L’olfatto, il senso emarginato [Smell, the marginalized sense]. Tutto Scienze, la
Stampa 990. Turin.
(14) Ligabue Stricker F. I feromoni: conoscenze attuali e brevi cenni sugli esperimenti in corso [Pheromones:
current knowledge and brief notes on ongoing experiments]. Antropol Contemp. 1991 14.
(15) Ligabue Stricker F, Mazzone M. Percezione di sostanze biologicamente significative e livelli di
gonadotropin nell’uomo [Perception of biologically relevant substances and gonadotropin levels in man],
X congress of Italian anthropologists, Pisa 1993.
(16) Ligabue Stricker F, Amoroso A, Cerrutti N. Antigeni di istocompatibilità e percezione olfattiva nell’uomo
[Histocompatibility antigens and olfactory perception in man] congress of Italian anthropologists,
Isernia. Vol XI 1995.
AUTHORS’ BIOGRAPHIES
Paolo Giacomoni acts as an independent consultant to the Skin Care industry and is Head
of R&D with L-Raphael Beauty Institutes, Geneva, Switzerland.He has served as CSO of
Élan Rose International (2015-2018), as VP of Skin Care R&D with Herbalife (2011-2014)
and was Executive Director of Research at Estée Lauder (1998-2011). Dr. Giacomoni was
also in charge of research and communications for Clinique and has conducted research on
cell and surface biochemistry for best-selling products.

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529
J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.5, 529–531 (September/October 2024)
Address all correspondence to Joanne Nikitakis, nikitakisj@personalcarecouncil.org.
INCI Nomenclature — International Harmony
JOANNE NIKITAKIS
Personal Care Product Council, Washington D.C., USA
Accepted for publication July 15, 2024.
Synopsis
Cosmetic scientists are challenged by the growing demand to develop formulations sourced from sustainable
raw materials. While there are many viewpoints on what constitutes a sustainable ingredient, developing a
universal definition for “sustainable” begins with ingredient identification. Fortunately for the stakeholders
involved in qualifying sustainability for the cosmetic market, the names for cosmetic ingredients are
standardized. These names have evolved over the course of five decades to become the globally accepted
naming system known as INCI.
The INCI naming system was created out of necessity. During the consumer movement in
the 1970s, when the ingredient labeling regulations for cosmetics were being promulgated
in the United States, there was no compendia of names for cosmetic raw materials. IUPAC
names were too complex, and brand names and bench terms were commonplace but could
not be used for labeling. At the time, discussions about ingredient identification were
ongoing between the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the national trade
association, CTFA (the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association—now PCPC, the
Personal Care Products Council), and led to the formation of a scientific committee charged
with the task of creating uniform terminology to meet the forthcoming ingredient labeling
regulations. The committee was made up of chemists from the cosmetic industry, with
representation by FDA, the US Adopted Names Council, and the Food Chemicals Codex.
The diverse expertise enabled the committee to leverage existing science-based principles
and standardized names from the food and drug sectors, while participation by the FDA
fostered acceptance of the naming system to meet the regulatory requirement. This early
framework proved to be essential to the success and future growth of the nomenclature
system.
As ingredient labeling requirements emerged in other countries, PCPC (then CTFA)
realized the importance of having identical ingredient names around the world. To address
specific interests in other regions, the scope of the nomenclature program was broadened.1
The committee (now called the International Nomenclature Committee, or INC) was
expanded to include active representation from authorities and sister trade associations in
the EU, Japan, and Canada which provided the foundation for international harmonization.

530 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Over time, global acceptance of the standardized INCI naming system evolved and was
pivotal to:
• Product safety: consistent identification of a substance is essential to ingredient safety
and the assessment of risk to human health and the environment.
• Regulatory considerations: harmonization ensures that substances are identified
consistently across borders which streamlines the registration and tracking of substances.
• Innovation: accurate, consistent substance identification is important to research and
new material evaluation for product development.
• Trade: a harmonized naming system facilitates trade and reduces potential barriers that
could arise from different naming approaches between regions.
There is no question that the international harmonization of INCI nomenclature was essential
to the global cosmetics industry, but moving toward a single system was challenging. The
effort called for engagement and support for collaboration—it required recognition of the
scientific basis for INCI names by all stakeholders, a mutual understanding for differences
in naming approaches, the interest in convergence on terms, and a sustained focus to make
the system workable for all. In recent years, sharing datasets of INCI names and technical
synonyms with global authorities has facilitated reference to INCI nomenclature in cosmetic
regulatory procedures, especially in the EU, Canada, Japan, and China. The cross-indexing
of INCI names with safety, regulatory and technical information in other databases, and
the publication of INCI names in technical references and trade journals has strengthened
the recognition of INCI terms in diverse sectors and furthered the harmonization process.
While communication is an important component of harmonization, there are still
opportunities for a greater understanding about the INCI process. Two of the most common
misunderstandings are the notions of ingredient safety and approval. The assignment
of an INCI name (which occurs at the request of an ingredient supplier) does not mean
that the ingredient has been reviewed for its safety. Safety data is not required as part of
the INCI nomenclature process. Independent scientific reviews for ingredient safety are
conducted by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR, https://www.cir-safety.org) and other
scientific bodies and authorities. The finished product manufacturer has the responsibility
of assessing and documenting safety prior to marketing the final product. In a similar way,
the designation of an INCI name does not mean that the ingredient has been approved for
use in a specific global region or for a specific purpose. Companies are expected to consider
intended use and comply with the regulations in the jurisdiction where the product is
marketed. Another common misunderstanding is about equivalence. While the INC can
assign the same INCI name to different trade name ingredients, it does not necessarily
mean that they are interchangeable in a particular formulation. Polymer ingredients serve
as a good example here where some trade names may have the same INCI name but
impart different rheological properties. Finally, it cannot be assumed that a trade name
associated with an INCI name in technical literature was truly assigned that name by the
INC through the INCI process. In these instances, a supplier could mistakenly attribute
an incorrect INCI designation. Finished product manufacturers should carefully evaluate
material composition and confirm the INCI name information as part of the ingredient
selection process.
The challenge of INCI name changes and acceptance of the newer terms deserves a brief
mention. In recent years, new processes for ingredient development have given rise to new
INCI names and new INCI naming principles. When this happens, older names based on

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