404 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(50) Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Lips A, Vincent C, et al. pH-induced alterations in stratum corneum
properties. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2003 25(3):103–112. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00176.x
(51) Saad P, Flach CR, Walters RM, Mendelsohn R. Infrared spectroscopic studies of sodium dodecyl sulphate
permeation and interaction with stratum corneum lipids in skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 34(1):36–43.
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00678.x
(52) Perticaroli S, Meyers JL, Wireko FC, et al. Cleansers’ mildness: stratum corneum lipid organization and
water uptake after a single wash. J Raman Spectroscopy. 2020 51(5):795–806. doi:10.1002/jrs.5841
(53) Ananthapadmanabhan K, Yang L, Vincent C, et al. Pashkovski, and V. Subramanian, A novel technology
in mild and moisturizing cleansing liquids. Cosmet Dermatol. 2009 22(6):307–316.
(54) Spada F, Harrison IP, Barnes TM, et al. A daily regimen of a ceramide-dominant moisturizing cream
and cleanser restores the skin permeability barrier in adults with moderate eczema: a randomized
trial. Dermatol Ther. 2021 34(4):e14970. http://wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/dth. doi:10.1111/dth​
.​14970
(55) Ertel K, Focht H, Wei K, Chapter 13. Personal cleansers: body wash. In: Draelos ZD, ed. Cosmetic
Dermatology. Wiley-Blackwell 2022:134–143.
(56) Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Leyden JJ, Hawkins SS. Recent advances in mild and moisturizing cleansers.
J Drugs Dermatol. January 01 2019 18(1s):s80–s88.
(57) Lochhead RY, Chapter 13. The use of polymers in cosmetic products. In: Sakakoto K, Lochhead RY,
Maibach HI, Yamashita T, eds. Cosmetic Science and Technology. Elsevier 2017:171–222.
(58) Liles DT, Lin F. Silicone Elastomeric Particles in Skin Care Applications ACS Symp S. 2010:207–219.
doi:10.1021/bk-2010-1053.ch011
(59) Moore PN, Puvvada S, Blankschtein D. Challenging the surfactant monomer skin penetration model:
penetration of sodium dodecyl sulfate micelles into the epidermis. J Cosmet Sci. 2003 54(1):29–46.
(60) Draelos Z, Hornby S, Walters RM, Appa Y. Hydrophobically modified polymers can minimize skin
irritation potential caused by surfactant-based cleansers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013 12(4):314–321.
doi:10.1111/jocd.12061
(61) Om S, K. Amol. Carbomer: A comprehensive review, inventi rapid. Pharm Technol 2016(1).
(62) Garti N. A new approach to improved stability and controlled release in double emulsions, by the
use of graft-comb polymeric amphiphiles. Acta Polym. 1998 49(10-11):606–616. doi:10.1002/
(SICI)1521-4044(199810)49:10/11 606::AID-APOL606 3.0.CO 2-G
(63) Tadros T. Polymeric Surfactants in Disperse Systems, Advances in Colloid and Interface Science. Vols 147–148​
(March-June) 2009:281–299.
(64) Hu M, Russell TP. Polymers with advanced architectures as emulsifiers for multifunctional emulsions.
Mater Chem Front (2052-1537) 5(3):1205, 02.2021.
(65) Chandan N, Rajkumar JR, Shi VY, Lio PA. A new era of moisturizers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 20(8):2425–
2430. doi:10.1111/jocd.14217
(66) Proksch E, Berardesca E, Misery L, Engblom J, Bouwstra J. Dry skin management: practical approach
in light of latest research on skin structure and function. J Dermatolog Treat. 2020 31(7):716–722. doi:10
.1080/09546634.2019.1607024
(67) Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 17(2):138–144.
doi:10.1111/jocd.12490
(68) Choi HY, Lee YJ, Kim CM, Lee Y-M. Revolutionizing cosmetic ingredients: harnessing the power
of antioxidants, probiotics, plant extracts, and peptides in personal and skin care products. Cosmetics.
2024 11(5):157. doi:10.3390/cosmetics11050157
(69) Douguet M, Picard C, Savary G, Merlaud F, Loubat-Bouleuc N, Grisel M. Spreading properties of
cosmetic emollients: use of synthetic skin surface to elucidate structural effect. Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces.
2017 154:307–314. doi:10.1016/j.colsurfb.2017.03.028
(70) Marchioretto S, Vervier I, Van Reeth I, Plotzke K, Johnson B. The power of silicones in cosmetic
applications. SOFW Journal 12/21 |Volume 147. Thannhausen, Germany, December 15, 2021.
405 The Human Stratum Corneum
(71) Das R, Mallik N, Adhikari A, Bhattarai A. A comprehensive review on the creation, description, and
utilization of surfactants containing multiple hydroxyl groups. Int J Polym Sci. 2024 2024(1):Article ID
6120535. doi:10.1155/2024/6120535
(72) Bárány E, Lindberg M, Lodén M. Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers. Int J
Pharm. 2000 195(1-2):189–195. doi:10.1016/s0378-5173(99)00388-9
(73) Lémery E, Briançon S, Chevalier Y, et al. Skin toxicity of surfactants: Structure/toxicity relationships.
Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects. 2015 469:166–179. doi:10.1016/j.
colsurfa.2015.01.019.
(74) Trommer H, Neubert RHH. Overcoming the stratum corneum: the modulation of skin penetration. A
review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006 19(2):106–121. doi:10.1159/000091978
(75) Songkro S. An overview of skin penetration enhancers: penetration enhancing activity, skin irritation
potential and mechanism of action. Songklanakarin J Sci Technol. May-June 2009 31(3):299–321.
(76) Mitragotri S, Anissimov YG, Bunge AL, et al. Mathematical models of skin permeability: an overview.
Int J Pharm. 2011 418(1):115–129. doi:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2011.02.023
(77) Moghadam SH, Saliaj E, Wettig SD, et al. Effect of chemical permeation enhancers on stratum corneum
barrier lipid organizational structure and interferon alpha permeability. Mol Pharm. 2013 10(6):2248–
2260. doi:10.1021/mp300441c
(78) Bos JD, Meinardi MM. The 500 dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs.
Exp Dermatol. 2000 9(3):165–169. doi:10.1034/j.1600-0625.2000.009003165.x
(79) Williams AC, Barry BW. Penetration enhancers. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2012 64:128–137. doi:10.1016/j.
addr.2012.09.032
(80) Moghadam SH, Saliaj E, Wettig SD, et al. Effect of chemical permeation enhancers on stratum corneum
barrier lipid organizational structure and interferon alpha permeability. Mol Pharm. 2013 10(6):2248–
2260. doi:10.1021/mp300441c
(80a) Ibid. Ref 77.
(81) Pham QD, Björklund S, Engblom J, Topgaard D, Sparr E. Chemical penetration enhancers in stratum
corneum—relation between molecular effects and barrier function. J Control Release. 2016 232:175–187.
doi:10.1016/j.jconrel.2016.04.030
(82) Spada F, Barnes TM, Greive KA. Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to
mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 11:491–497.
doi:10.2147/CCID.S177697
(83) Nisbet SJ, Dykes P, Snatchfold J. Single application of lamellar moisturizers provides significantly
increased hydration of the stratum corneum for up to 24 hours in a randomized trial. J Cosmet Dermatol.
2020 19(11):3091–3095. doi:10.1111/jocd.13361
(84) Hauser M. Cosmetic Oils in comparison: penetration and occlusion of paraffin oil and vegetable oils.
COSSMA(1-2)/y2012:26–32.
(85) Rawlings AV, Lombard KJ. A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil. Int J Cosmet Sci.
2012 34(6):511–518. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00752.x
(86) Bosko CA, Adamus J, Bajor JS. The safety and efficacy of petrolatum. J Cosmet Sci. May/June 2022. ISSN
1525-7886 73:178-189.
(87) Ghadially R, Halkier-Sorensen L, Elias PM. Effects of petrolatum on stratum corneum structure and
function. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1992 26(3 Pt 2):387–396. doi:10.1016/0190-9622(92)70060-s
(88) Chen X-W, Sun S-D, Yang G-L, Ma C-G. Engineering phytosterol-based oleogels for potential application
as sustainable petrolatum replacement. RSC Adv. 2019 10(1):244–252. doi:10.1039/c9ra06950j
(89) Barnes TM, Mijaljica D, Townley JP, Spada F, Harrison IP. Vehicles for drug delivery and cosmetic
moisturizers: Review and Comparison [review]. Pharmaceutics. 2021 13(12):2012. doi:10.3390/pharma​
ceutics​13122012
(90) Stortz TA, Marangoni AG. The replacement for petrolatum: thixotropic ethylcellulose oleogels in
triglyceride oils. Green Chem. 2014 16(6):3064–3070. doi:10.1039/C4GC00052H
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Volume 75 No 5 - Sustainability Special Issue - Open Access resources

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404 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(50) Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Lips A, Vincent C, et al. pH-induced alterations in stratum corneum
properties. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2003 25(3):103–112. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00176.x
(51) Saad P, Flach CR, Walters RM, Mendelsohn R. Infrared spectroscopic studies of sodium dodecyl sulphate
permeation and interaction with stratum corneum lipids in skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 34(1):36–43.
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00678.x
(52) Perticaroli S, Meyers JL, Wireko FC, et al. Cleansers’ mildness: stratum corneum lipid organization and
water uptake after a single wash. J Raman Spectroscopy. 2020 51(5):795–806. doi:10.1002/jrs.5841
(53) Ananthapadmanabhan K, Yang L, Vincent C, et al. Pashkovski, and V. Subramanian, A novel technology
in mild and moisturizing cleansing liquids. Cosmet Dermatol. 2009 22(6):307–316.
(54) Spada F, Harrison IP, Barnes TM, et al. A daily regimen of a ceramide-dominant moisturizing cream
and cleanser restores the skin permeability barrier in adults with moderate eczema: a randomized
trial. Dermatol Ther. 2021 34(4):e14970. http://wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/dth. doi:10.1111/dth​
.​14970
(55) Ertel K, Focht H, Wei K, Chapter 13. Personal cleansers: body wash. In: Draelos ZD, ed. Cosmetic
Dermatology. Wiley-Blackwell 2022:134–143.
(56) Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Leyden JJ, Hawkins SS. Recent advances in mild and moisturizing cleansers.
J Drugs Dermatol. January 01 2019 18(1s):s80–s88.
(57) Lochhead RY, Chapter 13. The use of polymers in cosmetic products. In: Sakakoto K, Lochhead RY,
Maibach HI, Yamashita T, eds. Cosmetic Science and Technology. Elsevier 2017:171–222.
(58) Liles DT, Lin F. Silicone Elastomeric Particles in Skin Care Applications ACS Symp S. 2010:207–219.
doi:10.1021/bk-2010-1053.ch011
(59) Moore PN, Puvvada S, Blankschtein D. Challenging the surfactant monomer skin penetration model:
penetration of sodium dodecyl sulfate micelles into the epidermis. J Cosmet Sci. 2003 54(1):29–46.
(60) Draelos Z, Hornby S, Walters RM, Appa Y. Hydrophobically modified polymers can minimize skin
irritation potential caused by surfactant-based cleansers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013 12(4):314–321.
doi:10.1111/jocd.12061
(61) Om S, K. Amol. Carbomer: A comprehensive review, inventi rapid. Pharm Technol 2016(1).
(62) Garti N. A new approach to improved stability and controlled release in double emulsions, by the
use of graft-comb polymeric amphiphiles. Acta Polym. 1998 49(10-11):606–616. doi:10.1002/
(SICI)1521-4044(199810)49:10/11 606::AID-APOL606 3.0.CO 2-G
(63) Tadros T. Polymeric Surfactants in Disperse Systems, Advances in Colloid and Interface Science. Vols 147–148​
(March-June) 2009:281–299.
(64) Hu M, Russell TP. Polymers with advanced architectures as emulsifiers for multifunctional emulsions.
Mater Chem Front (2052-1537) 5(3):1205, 02.2021.
(65) Chandan N, Rajkumar JR, Shi VY, Lio PA. A new era of moisturizers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 20(8):2425–
2430. doi:10.1111/jocd.14217
(66) Proksch E, Berardesca E, Misery L, Engblom J, Bouwstra J. Dry skin management: practical approach
in light of latest research on skin structure and function. J Dermatolog Treat. 2020 31(7):716–722. doi:10
.1080/09546634.2019.1607024
(67) Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 17(2):138–144.
doi:10.1111/jocd.12490
(68) Choi HY, Lee YJ, Kim CM, Lee Y-M. Revolutionizing cosmetic ingredients: harnessing the power
of antioxidants, probiotics, plant extracts, and peptides in personal and skin care products. Cosmetics.
2024 11(5):157. doi:10.3390/cosmetics11050157
(69) Douguet M, Picard C, Savary G, Merlaud F, Loubat-Bouleuc N, Grisel M. Spreading properties of
cosmetic emollients: use of synthetic skin surface to elucidate structural effect. Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces.
2017 154:307–314. doi:10.1016/j.colsurfb.2017.03.028
(70) Marchioretto S, Vervier I, Van Reeth I, Plotzke K, Johnson B. The power of silicones in cosmetic
applications. SOFW Journal 12/21 |Volume 147. Thannhausen, Germany, December 15, 2021.
405 The Human Stratum Corneum
(71) Das R, Mallik N, Adhikari A, Bhattarai A. A comprehensive review on the creation, description, and
utilization of surfactants containing multiple hydroxyl groups. Int J Polym Sci. 2024 2024(1):Article ID
6120535. doi:10.1155/2024/6120535
(72) Bárány E, Lindberg M, Lodén M. Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers. Int J
Pharm. 2000 195(1-2):189–195. doi:10.1016/s0378-5173(99)00388-9
(73) Lémery E, Briançon S, Chevalier Y, et al. Skin toxicity of surfactants: Structure/toxicity relationships.
Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects. 2015 469:166–179. doi:10.1016/j.
colsurfa.2015.01.019.
(74) Trommer H, Neubert RHH. Overcoming the stratum corneum: the modulation of skin penetration. A
review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006 19(2):106–121. doi:10.1159/000091978
(75) Songkro S. An overview of skin penetration enhancers: penetration enhancing activity, skin irritation
potential and mechanism of action. Songklanakarin J Sci Technol. May-June 2009 31(3):299–321.
(76) Mitragotri S, Anissimov YG, Bunge AL, et al. Mathematical models of skin permeability: an overview.
Int J Pharm. 2011 418(1):115–129. doi:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2011.02.023
(77) Moghadam SH, Saliaj E, Wettig SD, et al. Effect of chemical permeation enhancers on stratum corneum
barrier lipid organizational structure and interferon alpha permeability. Mol Pharm. 2013 10(6):2248–
2260. doi:10.1021/mp300441c
(78) Bos JD, Meinardi MM. The 500 dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs.
Exp Dermatol. 2000 9(3):165–169. doi:10.1034/j.1600-0625.2000.009003165.x
(79) Williams AC, Barry BW. Penetration enhancers. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2012 64:128–137. doi:10.1016/j.
addr.2012.09.032
(80) Moghadam SH, Saliaj E, Wettig SD, et al. Effect of chemical permeation enhancers on stratum corneum
barrier lipid organizational structure and interferon alpha permeability. Mol Pharm. 2013 10(6):2248–
2260. doi:10.1021/mp300441c
(80a) Ibid. Ref 77.
(81) Pham QD, Björklund S, Engblom J, Topgaard D, Sparr E. Chemical penetration enhancers in stratum
corneum—relation between molecular effects and barrier function. J Control Release. 2016 232:175–187.
doi:10.1016/j.jconrel.2016.04.030
(82) Spada F, Barnes TM, Greive KA. Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to
mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 11:491–497.
doi:10.2147/CCID.S177697
(83) Nisbet SJ, Dykes P, Snatchfold J. Single application of lamellar moisturizers provides significantly
increased hydration of the stratum corneum for up to 24 hours in a randomized trial. J Cosmet Dermatol.
2020 19(11):3091–3095. doi:10.1111/jocd.13361
(84) Hauser M. Cosmetic Oils in comparison: penetration and occlusion of paraffin oil and vegetable oils.
COSSMA(1-2)/y2012:26–32.
(85) Rawlings AV, Lombard KJ. A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil. Int J Cosmet Sci.
2012 34(6):511–518. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00752.x
(86) Bosko CA, Adamus J, Bajor JS. The safety and efficacy of petrolatum. J Cosmet Sci. May/June 2022. ISSN
1525-7886 73:178-189.
(87) Ghadially R, Halkier-Sorensen L, Elias PM. Effects of petrolatum on stratum corneum structure and
function. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1992 26(3 Pt 2):387–396. doi:10.1016/0190-9622(92)70060-s
(88) Chen X-W, Sun S-D, Yang G-L, Ma C-G. Engineering phytosterol-based oleogels for potential application
as sustainable petrolatum replacement. RSC Adv. 2019 10(1):244–252. doi:10.1039/c9ra06950j
(89) Barnes TM, Mijaljica D, Townley JP, Spada F, Harrison IP. Vehicles for drug delivery and cosmetic
moisturizers: Review and Comparison [review]. Pharmaceutics. 2021 13(12):2012. doi:10.3390/pharma​
ceutics​13122012
(90) Stortz TA, Marangoni AG. The replacement for petrolatum: thixotropic ethylcellulose oleogels in
triglyceride oils. Green Chem. 2014 16(6):3064–3070. doi:10.1039/C4GC00052H

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