471 DELIVERING SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS TO IMPROVE WELLBEING
PART 2: RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS
Sustainability of SAA (naturally derived rheology modifier polymer). Synthetic water-soluble and
dispersible polymers play an important role as thickeners, emulsifiers, rheology modifiers,
conditioning agents, and other formulating aids.21 However, their high molecular weights
and complex structures make these polymers difficult to biodegrade. The use of natural
polymers like starch, cellulose, and other polysaccharides has increased in many formulation
ingredients. While biodegradable, their performance has yet to match synthetic materials.
Many carbomers, acrylate powders, and liquid polymers address the 12 principles of green
chemistry in manufacturing, a framework for designing and improving materials, products,
and processes to reduce the impact of chemicals and their synthesis on the environment
and health. SAA, a starch-supported copolymer, has been developed to further improve
sustainability requirements.
Figure 19. (A) Left panel: variation (%)in the skin tone homogeneity obtained after 28 days of product
application (low significant 0.05 p 0.1 versus initial time, calculated using a student’s t test after
checking the normality distribution by a Shapiro-Wilk test). Right panel: representative images showing an
improvement of the skin tone homogeneity after 28 days of treatment with the active cream. (B) Left panel:
variation (%)in the number of dark spots obtained after 28 days of product application (*p 0.05 versus
initial time, calculated using a student’s t-test after checking the normality distribution by a Shapiro-Wilk
test). Right panel: representative images showing a reduction in the number of dark spots after 28 days of
treatment with the active cream.

472 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Naturality &biodegradability. SAA has a natural origin content of 85% (ISO 16128
including water) and is inherently biodegradable according to OECD 301B.
Ecodesigned process. This novel ingredient considers all 12 principles of green chemistry
in manufacturing. Specifically, the ingredient addresses principle 7 using a renewable
feedstock and principle 10 as the ingredient is inherently biodegradable.
Sustainable sourcing. The starch used comes from the potato, a traceable and renewable
feedstock. The potato is a very efficient crop (one of the highest yields per hectare on dry
content) in terms of land use and carbon footprint. According to the supplier, it does not
compete with other food in the supply chain, and it is GMO-free.
Low footprint. SAA has a 30% lower carbon footprint compared to The acrylate copolymer.
(The calculations have been conducted using various assumptions. Formulators need to
assess the impact on their finished products based on the use rate of each ingredient.) Also,
SAA is free from GMOs, does not include ethoxylated ingredients, is cold processable, and
is microbiome friendly.
Sustainability of C spinosa (tara) gum natural rheology modifier polymer. Other rheology
modifiers are also derived from natural sources like polysaccharides. Polygalactomannans
are high-molecular-weight polysaccharides that are widely used as suspending, thickening,
emulsifying, and gelling agents in applications as diverse as foodstuffs, coatings, personal
care compositions, and ingredients in oil well fracturing fluids. They are found in the
endosperm material of seeds from leguminous plants such as Cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar
gum), C spinosa (tara gum), Ceratonia siliqua (locust bean gum), and Cassia obtusifolia
(cassia gum). A polygalactomannan is composed of the backbone of 1→4-linked β-D-
mannopyranosyl units with recurring 1→6-linked α-D-galactosyl side groups branching
from the number 6 carbon of a mannopyranose residue in the backbone. The galactomannan
polymers of the different Leguminosae species differ from one another in the frequency of the
occurrence of the galactosyl side units branching from the polymannopyranose backbone.
The average ratio of D-mannosyl to D-galactosyl units in the polygalactomannan contained
in guar gum is approximately 2:1, 3:1 for tara gum, 4:1 for locust bean gum, and 9:1 for
cassia gum. The greater the galactose side unit substitution, the greater the cold-water
solubility properties of the polygalactomannan.22,23
Sustainable sourcing. Tara gum, also known as Peruvian carob or C spinosa, is a leguminous
shrub native to Peru, South America. The fruit, usually harvested by hand, is a flat,
oblong, indehiscent, and reddish pod that contains large, round, black seeds composed of
an endosperm, germ, and hull.24 Tara seeds are obtained from local producers and have a
high social impact for the growth region.
Ecodesigned process. A fully mechanical production process guarantees an environmentally
friendly and 100% natural hydrocolloid product. No solvents or chemicals are used for refining.
It is COSMOS approved, has a natural organic content of 100% (ISO 16128), is readily
biodegradable (OECD 301F), is vegan suitable, and is microbiome friendly, all of which
gives it a high-sustainability profile.