AI-Guided Personalized Skin Care and Custom Routines

422 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(7) Baumann LS. The Baumann skin typing system. In: Farage MA, et al., eds. Textbook of Aging Skin.
Springer-Verlag 2017:1579–1594.
(8) Baumann L. 14 A Scientific Approach to Cosmeceuticals. The Art of Aesthetic Surgery, Three Volume Set: Principles
and Techniques 2020.
(9) Baumann L. How to use oral and topical cosmeceuticals to prevent and treat skin aging. Facial Plast Surg
Clin North Am. 2018 26(4):407–413. doi:10.1016/j.fsc.2018.06.002
(10) Baumann L. Nonsurgical Skin Care and Rejuvenation. Gurtner GC, Neligan PC. Plastic Surgery (3rd and 4th
Ed). Elsevier 2013:25.
(11) Baumann L. Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology. 3rd ed. McGraw-Hill 2022 Chapters 10 to 21, 35.
(12) Choi JY, Choi YJ, Nam JH, Jung HJ, Lee GY, Kim WS. Identifying skin type using the Baumann
skin type questionnaire in Korean women who visited a dermatologic clinic. Korean J Dermatol. 2016 54
(6):422–437.
(13) Lee YB, Ahn SK, Ahn GY, et al. Baumann skin type in the Korean male population. Ann Dermatol.
2019 31(6):621–630. doi:10.5021/ad.2019.31.6.621
(14) Ahn SK, Jun M, Bak H, et al. Baumann skin type in the Korean female population. Ann Dermatol.
2017 29(5):586–596. doi:10.5021/ad.2017.29.5.586
(15) Oliveira R, Ferreira J, Azevedo LF, Almeida IF. An overview of methods to characterize skin type: focus on
visual rating scales and self-report instruments. Cosmetics. 2023 10(1):14. doi:10.3390/cosmetics10010014
(16) Kanezawa S, Zhu Y-B, Wang Q. Correlation between Chinese medicine constitution and skin types: a
study on 187 Japanese women. Chin J Integr Med. 2020 26(3):174–179. doi:10.1007/s11655-019-2709-3
(17) Lee YB, Park SM, Bae JM, Yu DS, Kim HJ, Kim J-W. Which skin type is prevalent in Korean
post-adolescent acne patients? A pilot study using the Baumann skin type indicator. Ann Dermatol.
2017 29(6):817–819. doi:10.5021/ad.2017.29.6.817
(18) Park KY, Hong JK, Shin SH, et al. A study on the correlation of skin types with genetic factors and
environmental factors in koreans. 대한피부과학회지. 2022 60(4):242–253.
(19) de Souza CRS, Fontes RB, de Godoy CAP. Estudo comparativo entre a autopercepção das características
cutâneas e o formulário Baumann. Res Soc Dev. 2023 12(4):e15912441144–e15912441144. doi:10.33448/
rsd-v12i4.41144
(20) Tao M, Li M, Zhang Y, Gu D, Pan R, Xu Y. The relationship between the distribution of facial erythema
and skin type in rosacea patients: a cross-sectional analysis. Arch Dermatol Res. 2023 315(7):2179–2182.
doi:10.1007/s00403-023-02602-9
(21) Baumann LS. Validation of a questionnaire to diagnose the Baumann skin type in all ethnicities and in
various geographic locations. J Cosmet Dermatol Sci Appl. 2016 06(1):34–40. doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2016.61005
(22) Roberts WE. Skin type classification systems old and new. Dermatol Clin. 2009 27(4):529–533.
doi:10.1016/j.det.2009.08.006
(23) Baumann L. Ch. 12 Dry Skin in Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology. McGraw-Hill 2002:177.
(24) Baumann L. Oily Skin in Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology. 3rd ed. McGraw-Hill 2022:159–174.
(25) Baumann L. The Skin Type Solution (Bantam 2006, 2007, 2010).
(26) Lee YJ, Choi JW, Nam HW, Shin SY. A study on the direction of beauty tech reflecting the skin
characteristics of koreans: focused on case studies. Comput Inf Sci. 2022:2021-Fall 21, 107–118.
(27) Cho SI, Kim D, Lee H, Um TT, Kim H. Explore highly relevant questions in the Baumann skin type
questionnaire through the digital skin analyzer: A retrospective single-center study in South Korea. J
Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 22(11):3159–3167. doi:10.1111/jocd.15820
(28) For licensing information contact info@skintypesolutions.com. Cost varies depending on usage and
research goals.

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Extracted Text (may have errors)

422 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(7) Baumann LS. The Baumann skin typing system. In: Farage MA, et al., eds. Textbook of Aging Skin.
Springer-Verlag 2017:1579–1594.
(8) Baumann L. 14 A Scientific Approach to Cosmeceuticals. The Art of Aesthetic Surgery, Three Volume Set: Principles
and Techniques 2020.
(9) Baumann L. How to use oral and topical cosmeceuticals to prevent and treat skin aging. Facial Plast Surg
Clin North Am. 2018 26(4):407–413. doi:10.1016/j.fsc.2018.06.002
(10) Baumann L. Nonsurgical Skin Care and Rejuvenation. Gurtner GC, Neligan PC. Plastic Surgery (3rd and 4th
Ed). Elsevier 2013:25.
(11) Baumann L. Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology. 3rd ed. McGraw-Hill 2022 Chapters 10 to 21, 35.
(12) Choi JY, Choi YJ, Nam JH, Jung HJ, Lee GY, Kim WS. Identifying skin type using the Baumann
skin type questionnaire in Korean women who visited a dermatologic clinic. Korean J Dermatol. 2016 54
(6):422–437.
(13) Lee YB, Ahn SK, Ahn GY, et al. Baumann skin type in the Korean male population. Ann Dermatol.
2019 31(6):621–630. doi:10.5021/ad.2019.31.6.621
(14) Ahn SK, Jun M, Bak H, et al. Baumann skin type in the Korean female population. Ann Dermatol.
2017 29(5):586–596. doi:10.5021/ad.2017.29.5.586
(15) Oliveira R, Ferreira J, Azevedo LF, Almeida IF. An overview of methods to characterize skin type: focus on
visual rating scales and self-report instruments. Cosmetics. 2023 10(1):14. doi:10.3390/cosmetics10010014
(16) Kanezawa S, Zhu Y-B, Wang Q. Correlation between Chinese medicine constitution and skin types: a
study on 187 Japanese women. Chin J Integr Med. 2020 26(3):174–179. doi:10.1007/s11655-019-2709-3
(17) Lee YB, Park SM, Bae JM, Yu DS, Kim HJ, Kim J-W. Which skin type is prevalent in Korean
post-adolescent acne patients? A pilot study using the Baumann skin type indicator. Ann Dermatol.
2017 29(6):817–819. doi:10.5021/ad.2017.29.6.817
(18) Park KY, Hong JK, Shin SH, et al. A study on the correlation of skin types with genetic factors and
environmental factors in koreans. 대한피부과학회지. 2022 60(4):242–253.
(19) de Souza CRS, Fontes RB, de Godoy CAP. Estudo comparativo entre a autopercepção das características
cutâneas e o formulário Baumann. Res Soc Dev. 2023 12(4):e15912441144–e15912441144. doi:10.33448/
rsd-v12i4.41144
(20) Tao M, Li M, Zhang Y, Gu D, Pan R, Xu Y. The relationship between the distribution of facial erythema
and skin type in rosacea patients: a cross-sectional analysis. Arch Dermatol Res. 2023 315(7):2179–2182.
doi:10.1007/s00403-023-02602-9
(21) Baumann LS. Validation of a questionnaire to diagnose the Baumann skin type in all ethnicities and in
various geographic locations. J Cosmet Dermatol Sci Appl. 2016 06(1):34–40. doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2016.61005
(22) Roberts WE. Skin type classification systems old and new. Dermatol Clin. 2009 27(4):529–533.
doi:10.1016/j.det.2009.08.006
(23) Baumann L. Ch. 12 Dry Skin in Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology. McGraw-Hill 2002:177.
(24) Baumann L. Oily Skin in Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology. 3rd ed. McGraw-Hill 2022:159–174.
(25) Baumann L. The Skin Type Solution (Bantam 2006, 2007, 2010).
(26) Lee YJ, Choi JW, Nam HW, Shin SY. A study on the direction of beauty tech reflecting the skin
characteristics of koreans: focused on case studies. Comput Inf Sci. 2022:2021-Fall 21, 107–118.
(27) Cho SI, Kim D, Lee H, Um TT, Kim H. Explore highly relevant questions in the Baumann skin type
questionnaire through the digital skin analyzer: A retrospective single-center study in South Korea. J
Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 22(11):3159–3167. doi:10.1111/jocd.15820
(28) For licensing information contact info@skintypesolutions.com. Cost varies depending on usage and
research goals.

Help

423
J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.5, 423–446 (September/October 2024)
*Address all correspondence to Trefor Evans, tevans@triprinceton.org.
Sustainable Hair
TREFOR EVANS
TRI Princeton, Princeton, New Jersey, USA
Accepted for publication September 06, 2024
Synopsis
The amazingly complex structure of hair is crafted deep within a hair follicle to produce what, in material
science terms, might be described as a bio-composite fiber. While this process continues throughout the
lifetime of the fiber, the portion that egresses out onto the scalp is biologically inert. Despite being very
tough and durable, this structure will still gradually degrade as the result of external stressors. In cosmetic
manipulations, some of these can be quite aggressive and sizably exacerbate this process. A considerable
historical scientific literature describes the myriad of ways by which different parts of the hair structure
may breakdown and change as the result of a plethora of different insults. Accordingly, physical and tactile
properties of fibers also change. At some threshold value, such differences become perceivable to the wearer—
who may then use a variety of expressions and descriptors to communicate their perception of these changes:
and, on some occasions, suggest their own presumptions to a solution. Often, these views are not the actual
cause of the symptom (nor the solution), but a desire to sell products to the consumer prompts the use of this
“consumer language.” Further, the words and expressions used by consumers frequently do not equate to what
scientists understand by these words (i.e., “scientific language”). This article attempts to describe how this
situation causes major complications in the hair care industry.
INTRODUCTION
The amazingly complex bio-composite structure of hair is one in a long line of evolutionary
marvels. Over time, material scientists have learned that making something strong, tough,
and durable is best attained by using multiple phases, rather than from just one. Yet, Mother
Nature realized this eons ago and has used it as a template for many natural fibers, including
hair. It is often hypothesized that our ancient ancestors evolved hair as a means of protection
against the outside world. Hair would protect bodies against the cold, it would help shield
skin from the harmful effects of the sun’s UV rays, and it could even help protect against
biting insects. These traits necessitate a tough, durable material, and hair certainly fits the
bill. In modern times, the term biomimicry has arisen as science looks to the natural world
for solutions to various needs. This has driven some research into the structural properties of
hair but, for the most part, this work has been fueled by the cosmetic industry.
At the time of writing, it is estimated that the global hair care market is worth
approximately $100 billion per annum,1 which has spurred the historic need to study
and better understand our substrate. (It is also worth noting that hair and wool have

424 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
practically identical structure and chemistry, and so much can be gleamed from the sizable
literature on this important textile relative). At the same time, the cosmetic market is
focused on satisfying consumer needs, and a great deal of time and effort is spent by
marketers and consumer scientists to understand issues and wishes. In conducting such
interviews, a familiar list of terms begins to appear: softness, smoothness, strength, shine,
moisturization, frizz, and many more. We term these “consumer attributes,” and together
they constitute the lexicon of our industry as marketers attempt to communicate with
potential customers in their own language. As scientists, when we hear such expressions,
there is the natural tendency to take them literally. The concept of “strength” makes us
think about performing tensile experiments for quantification. “Moisturization” prompts
conceptualizing means of technical water evaluation. Yet, this creates a sizable industry
complication in that, as will be described herein, often “consumer language” does not
equate to “scientific language.”
The multifaceted structure of hair is under constant bombardment from everyday habits
and practices.2–4 Hair fibers are subjected to abrasion and fatiguing during grooming, are
bathed in reactive chemicals to alter color and shape, can be exposed to intense heat in an
attempt to quaff new styles, and constantly encounter the effect of the sun’s UV radiation.
All these (and others) compromise hair’s complex fundamental structure in a myriad of
ways with a concomitant change in various physical properties. The net effect of these
negative changes is expressed by one all-encompassing, nebulous, and wholly ineffectual
descriptor: “damage.” There is frequently the desire to measure how damaged (or how
healthy) a hair sample is however, it can hopefully be seen why this is a taxing proposition
as the various components of the hair’s structure can break down in numerous ways, at
differing rates, and as the result of countless insults.
The purpose of this article is to highlight how hair’s fundamental structure relates to the
various consumer attributes mentioned earlier. It will similarly cover how the effects of certain
insults can negatively impact such properties and contribute to consumer unrest. Insights
are attained through measuring changes in specific technical properties and attention will
be paid to the proper measurement of such properties. The nature of the cosmetic industry
is to promise consumer benefits, and hair-care products can unquestionably attain this
end. Yet, there is constantly the need/desire to push the marketing envelope where claims
frequently involve “protection” and/or “repair” of hair after using certain products. The
validity and subtleties of this consumer language will also be explored.
HAIR STRUCTURE
There are many excellent texts that describe the complex structure of hair, and the reader
is directed to these for higher level depth and detail.5–7 Herein, a brief overview is provided
as it specifically relates to the topic at hand. At the most fundamental level we can simply
think about the hair structure in terms of the “inside” and the “outside.” The outer
structure of hair is collectively termed the cuticle, where a conceptual analogy might involve
the bark at the outer edge of a tree. This structure is made up of many overlapping scales
or tile-like structures (i.e., the individual cuticle scales) that result in a tough exterior that
protects the more vulnerable interior. Figure 1 shows a high-magnification image of the
hair surface where this fine structure can be seen. Moreover, the greater cuticle structure
itself consists of generally five to six layers of these individual tiles. Figure 2 shows a similar

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420 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Figure 9. (A) Standardized images—such as the Canfield Visia (Canfield Scientific, Parsippany, NJ) image
seen here—do not provide as much information as a questionnaire and therefore are limited as far as providing
a skin type diagnosis. However, they are ideal for tracking changes and making comparisons to baseline
images. They can be used to keep patients engaged and motivated to be compliant with the prescribed skin
care regimen. The percentile represents how “good” the skin is compared to others of the same gender, age,
and skin color. A higher percentage is better and can be read as “Better than X%.” This image is a baseline
image of a BST 15: DRPW. The image shows redness, but skin sensitivity was not detected in the BSTI, so she
was assigned to a resistant skin type rather than a sensitive one. This allows for a more robust skin lightening
routine and demonstrates how the quiz results override photographic findings. (B) Same patient at 4-week
follow-up after using the correct skin care routine for a BST 15: DRPW. She was treated with exfoliants,
tyrosinase inhibitors, barrier repair moisturizers, antioxidants, and a retinoid. Improvement is seen (a higher
percentage) in the wrinkle, UV spot, and brown spot scores.

421 AI-Guided Skin Care
LICENSING THE USE OF THE BSTI SKIN TYPE QUIZ
The patented BSTS, copyrighted BSTI questionnaire, and trademarked BST octagons are
protected and licensed for various uses. The use of the validated online skin type quiz
and e-commerce platform is licensed to dermatologists and medical providers for skincare
retail under a monthly license agreement. When cosmetic chemists and product developers
license the BSTS for use in product development, guidance is provided to ensure proper
formulation of the products to correspond with the targeted demographic and skin type.
Skincare companies who wish to license the octagons for use on product packaging must
have the products go through the STS approval process. Researchers license the use of
the scientific skin care quiz to ensure they use the most current quiz version, correctly
use terminology, and prevent misuse of the scientific system.28 This enables researchers,
cosmetic chemists, skincare brands, medical providers, and skincare consumers to compare
findings and experiences more meaningfully.
CONCLUSION
The BSTS—with its rigorous definitions, product labeling, and efficacious regimen
templates—provides an ideal foundation for AI-driven skin care recommendations. This
diagnostic tool and educational system, backed by decades of research and data, allows
doctors, medical providers, patients, and consumers to create personalized skin care routines
that are both effective and sustainable. As the skincare industry continues to evolve, the
integration of AI and accurate skin type diagnosis will be crucial in delivering custom skin
care solutions that meet individual needs and preferences.
By leveraging the power of AI and the BSTI, it is possible to revolutionize the way skincare
products are designed and marketed, improving skin health and consumer satisfaction.
The kaleidoscope of data, products, and preferences comes together to create a personalized
and scientifically sound skin care routine, changing the way the world shops for skincare
products.
REFERENCES
(1) Baumann, L, &solutions, S.T. Standardization of skin care routine design and skin phenotype
diagnosis facilitates machine learning and AI 2022. Society of Cosmetic Chemists. https://www.
scconline.org/Portals/100/SCC%20Events%20Page/SCC75/Speakers/Preprints/Leslie%20
Baumann%20-%20Standardization%20of%20Skin%20Care%20Routine%20Design%20and%20
Skin%20Phenotype%20Diagnosis%20Facilitates%20Machine%20Learning%20and%20AI.
pdf?ver=Tyaj7iIc_We8ExhPvuiHng%3D%3D.
(2) Efata R, Loka WI, Wijaya N, Suhartono D. Facial skin type prediction based on Baumann skin type
solutions theory using machine learning. TEM J. 2023 12(1):96–103. doi:10.18421/TEM121-13
(3) Baumann L. Understanding and treating various skin types: the Baumann Skin Type Indicator. Dermatol
Clin. 2008 26(3):359–373. doi:10.1016/j.det.2008.03.007
(4) Baumann L. The Baumann Skin-Type Indicator: a Novel Approach to Understanding Skin Type. Handbook of
Cosmetic Science and Technology. 3rd ed. Informa Healthcare 2009:29–40.
(5) Baumann LS, Penfield RD, Clarke JL, Duque DK. A validated questionnaire for quantifying skin
oiliness. J Cosmet Dermatol Sci Appl. 2014 04(2):78–84. doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2014.42012
(6) Baumann L. 2008, 2012:2019. Cosmetics and skin care in dermatology. Fitzpatrick’s Dermatology in
General Medicine. 7t, 8th and 9th eds. McGraw-Hill.

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