Delivering Sustainable Solutions to Improve Wellbeing

481 DELIVERING SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS TO IMPROVE WELLBEING
several new technologies that meet sustainable solution requirements while also providing
exceptional performance. These technologies include three novel active ingredients (THW
biotech ingredient, tetrapeptide-1, S rebaudiana extract) and two novel rheology modifiers
(SSA and tara).
A summary of the sustainable solutions presented in this article is shown in Table I.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We would like to thank Gemma Mola, Mauricio Valerio, Catrin Youssif, and Raquel
Merino for their contributions to this article and technical work.
REFERENCES
(1) Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development. Test No. 301: Ready Biodegradability, OECD
Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals, Section 3. OECD Publishing 1992. doi: 10.1787/9789264070349-en
(2) Rieger MJ, ed. Harry’s Cosmeticology. 8th ed. Vol 30. Chemical Publishing, Inc 2000:666-667.
(3) Diaz, et al. Set relaxation of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1983 34:205–212.
(4) Anastas PT, Warner JC. Green Chemistry, Theory and Practice. Oxford University Press 1998:30. By
permission of Oxford University Press.
(5) Mourelle ML, Gómez CP, Legido JL. Hydrobiome of thermal waters: potential use in dermocosmetics.
Cosmetics. 2023 10(4):94. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10040094
(6) Nicoletti G, Saler M, Pellegatta T, et al. Ex vivo regenerative effects of spring water. Biomed Rep.
2017 7(6):508–514. doi: 10.3892/br.2017.1002
(7) Baumann L. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill 2008.
(8) Katta R, Desai SP. Diet and dermatology: the role of dietary intervention in skin disease. J Clin Aesthet
Dermatol. 2014 7(7):46–51.
(9) Borsky P, Fiala Z, Andrys C, et al. Alarmins HMGB1, IL-33, S100A7, and S100A12 in.psoriasis vulgaris.
Mediators Inflamm. 2020 2020:8465083. doi: 10.1155/2020/8465083
(10) Lee S-A, Kwak MS, Kim S, Shin J-S. The role of high mobility group box 1 in.innate immunity. Yonsei
Med J. 2014 55(5). doi: 10.3349/ymj.2014.55.5.1165
(11) Sorci G, Riuzzi F, Giambanco I, Donato R. RAGE in tissue homeostasis, repair and regeneration. Biochim
Biophys Acta. 2013 1833(1):101–109. doi: 10.1016/j.bbamcr.2012.10.021
(12) Kierdorf K, Fritz G. RAGE regulation and signaling in inflammation and beyond. J Leukoc Biol.
2013 94(1):55–68. doi: 10.1189/jlb.1012519
(13) Golberg A, Khan S, Belov V, et al. Skin rejuvenation with non-invasive pulsed electric fields. Sci Rep.
2015 5(1):10187. doi: 10.1038/srep10187
(14) Saniee F, Shirazi HRG, Kalantari KK, et al. Consider of micro-current’s effect to variation of facial
wrinkle trend, randomized clinical trial study. Life Sci J. 2012 9(3):1184–1189.
(15) Saniee F, Kalantari KK, Yazdanpanah P, Rezasoltani A, Dabiri N, Shirazi HR. The effect of microcurrents
on facial wrinkles. J Jahrom Univ Med Sci. 2012 10:9–16.
(16) Rouabhia M, Park H, Meng S, Derbali H, Zhang Z. Electrical stimulation promotes wound healing
by enhancing dermal fibroblast activity and promoting myofibroblast transdifferentiation. PLOS ONE.
2013 19:8(8):e71660.
(17) Jennings J, Chen D, Feldman D. Transcriptional response of dermal fibroblasts in direct current electric
fields. Bioelectromagnetics. 2008 29(5):394–405. doi: 10.1002/bem.20408
(18) Davis J, Salomoni N, Ghearing N, et al. Swanson and Jeffery D. Molkentin, MBNL1-mediated regulation
of differentiation RNAs promotes myofibroblast transformation and the fibrotic response. Nat Commun.
2015 16(6):10084.

482 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(19) Kohan M, Muro AF, White ES, Berkman N. EDA-containing cellular fibronectin induces fibroblast
differentiation through binding to α4β7 integrin receptor and MAPK/Erk 1/2-dependent signaling.
FASEB J. 2010 24(11):4503–4512. doi: 10.1096/fj.10-154435
(20) Serini G, Bochaton-Piallat ML, Ropraz P, et al. The fibronectin domain ED-A is crucial for myofibroblastic
phenotype induction by transforming growth factor-beta1. J Cell Biol. 1998 142(3):873–881. doi:
10.1083/jcb.142.3.873
(21) Bruan DB, Rosen MR. Rheology Modifiers Handbook: Practical Use and Applications. W. Andrew Publishing
2013.
(22) Ghiasi F, Hashemi Gahruie H, Eskandari M, Golmakani MT, Khaneghah AM. Natural gums. In:
Physicochemical and Enzymatic Modification of Gums. Springer 2022:3–29.
(23) Rigano L, Deola M, Zaccariotto F, Colleoni T, Lionetti N. A new gelling agent and rheology modifier in
cosmetics: Caesalpinia spinosa gum. Cosmetics. 2019 6(2):34. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics6020034
(24) Sangay – Tucto, S, Duponnois R, Ecological Characteristics of Tara (Caesalpinia spinosa), a Multipurpose Legume
Tree of High Ecological and Commercial Value. Vol 22. Nova Science Publishers, Inc 2018.
(25) Mintel. Mintel Search. Accessed October 29, 2024. https://www.mintel.com/predictive-insights-trends/.
(26) Sittikijyothin W, Torres D, Gonçalves MP. Modelling the rheological behavior of galactomannan
aqueous solution. Carbohydr Polym. 2005 59(3):339–350. doi: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2004.10.005
(27) Iwata T. Chapter 25. In: Lamellar Gel Network, Cosmetic Science and Technology – Theoretical Principles and
Applications. Elsevier 2017:415–447.
(28) Davies AR, Amin S. Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized
rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 42(3):259–269.
doi: 10.1111/ics.12609
(29) Wade Rafferty DW, Zellia J, Hasman D, Mullay J. Polymer composite principles applied to hair styling
gels. J Cosmet Sci. 2008 59(6):497–508. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00531_4.x
(30) Piggott M. Load Bearing Fibre Composites. 2nd ed. Kluwer Academic Publishers 2002:173.
(31) Juska TD, Puckett PM. Matrix resins and fiber/matrix adhesion. In: Mallick PK, Dekker M, ed.
Composites Engineering Handbook. Taylor &Francis 1997:146–158.
(32) Sperling LH. Introduction to Physical Polymer Science. 2nd ed. John Wiley &Sons, Inc 1992:506–509.

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Download PDF Delivering Sustainable Solutions to Improve Wellbeing (56)

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481 DELIVERING SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS TO IMPROVE WELLBEING
several new technologies that meet sustainable solution requirements while also providing
exceptional performance. These technologies include three novel active ingredients (THW
biotech ingredient, tetrapeptide-1, S rebaudiana extract) and two novel rheology modifiers
(SSA and tara).
A summary of the sustainable solutions presented in this article is shown in Table I.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We would like to thank Gemma Mola, Mauricio Valerio, Catrin Youssif, and Raquel
Merino for their contributions to this article and technical work.
REFERENCES
(1) Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development. Test No. 301: Ready Biodegradability, OECD
Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals, Section 3. OECD Publishing 1992. doi: 10.1787/9789264070349-en
(2) Rieger MJ, ed. Harry’s Cosmeticology. 8th ed. Vol 30. Chemical Publishing, Inc 2000:666-667.
(3) Diaz, et al. Set relaxation of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1983 34:205–212.
(4) Anastas PT, Warner JC. Green Chemistry, Theory and Practice. Oxford University Press 1998:30. By
permission of Oxford University Press.
(5) Mourelle ML, Gómez CP, Legido JL. Hydrobiome of thermal waters: potential use in dermocosmetics.
Cosmetics. 2023 10(4):94. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10040094
(6) Nicoletti G, Saler M, Pellegatta T, et al. Ex vivo regenerative effects of spring water. Biomed Rep.
2017 7(6):508–514. doi: 10.3892/br.2017.1002
(7) Baumann L. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill 2008.
(8) Katta R, Desai SP. Diet and dermatology: the role of dietary intervention in skin disease. J Clin Aesthet
Dermatol. 2014 7(7):46–51.
(9) Borsky P, Fiala Z, Andrys C, et al. Alarmins HMGB1, IL-33, S100A7, and S100A12 in.psoriasis vulgaris.
Mediators Inflamm. 2020 2020:8465083. doi: 10.1155/2020/8465083
(10) Lee S-A, Kwak MS, Kim S, Shin J-S. The role of high mobility group box 1 in.innate immunity. Yonsei
Med J. 2014 55(5). doi: 10.3349/ymj.2014.55.5.1165
(11) Sorci G, Riuzzi F, Giambanco I, Donato R. RAGE in tissue homeostasis, repair and regeneration. Biochim
Biophys Acta. 2013 1833(1):101–109. doi: 10.1016/j.bbamcr.2012.10.021
(12) Kierdorf K, Fritz G. RAGE regulation and signaling in inflammation and beyond. J Leukoc Biol.
2013 94(1):55–68. doi: 10.1189/jlb.1012519
(13) Golberg A, Khan S, Belov V, et al. Skin rejuvenation with non-invasive pulsed electric fields. Sci Rep.
2015 5(1):10187. doi: 10.1038/srep10187
(14) Saniee F, Shirazi HRG, Kalantari KK, et al. Consider of micro-current’s effect to variation of facial
wrinkle trend, randomized clinical trial study. Life Sci J. 2012 9(3):1184–1189.
(15) Saniee F, Kalantari KK, Yazdanpanah P, Rezasoltani A, Dabiri N, Shirazi HR. The effect of microcurrents
on facial wrinkles. J Jahrom Univ Med Sci. 2012 10:9–16.
(16) Rouabhia M, Park H, Meng S, Derbali H, Zhang Z. Electrical stimulation promotes wound healing
by enhancing dermal fibroblast activity and promoting myofibroblast transdifferentiation. PLOS ONE.
2013 19:8(8):e71660.
(17) Jennings J, Chen D, Feldman D. Transcriptional response of dermal fibroblasts in direct current electric
fields. Bioelectromagnetics. 2008 29(5):394–405. doi: 10.1002/bem.20408
(18) Davis J, Salomoni N, Ghearing N, et al. Swanson and Jeffery D. Molkentin, MBNL1-mediated regulation
of differentiation RNAs promotes myofibroblast transformation and the fibrotic response. Nat Commun.
2015 16(6):10084.

482 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(19) Kohan M, Muro AF, White ES, Berkman N. EDA-containing cellular fibronectin induces fibroblast
differentiation through binding to α4β7 integrin receptor and MAPK/Erk 1/2-dependent signaling.
FASEB J. 2010 24(11):4503–4512. doi: 10.1096/fj.10-154435
(20) Serini G, Bochaton-Piallat ML, Ropraz P, et al. The fibronectin domain ED-A is crucial for myofibroblastic
phenotype induction by transforming growth factor-beta1. J Cell Biol. 1998 142(3):873–881. doi:
10.1083/jcb.142.3.873
(21) Bruan DB, Rosen MR. Rheology Modifiers Handbook: Practical Use and Applications. W. Andrew Publishing
2013.
(22) Ghiasi F, Hashemi Gahruie H, Eskandari M, Golmakani MT, Khaneghah AM. Natural gums. In:
Physicochemical and Enzymatic Modification of Gums. Springer 2022:3–29.
(23) Rigano L, Deola M, Zaccariotto F, Colleoni T, Lionetti N. A new gelling agent and rheology modifier in
cosmetics: Caesalpinia spinosa gum. Cosmetics. 2019 6(2):34. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics6020034
(24) Sangay – Tucto, S, Duponnois R, Ecological Characteristics of Tara (Caesalpinia spinosa), a Multipurpose Legume
Tree of High Ecological and Commercial Value. Vol 22. Nova Science Publishers, Inc 2018.
(25) Mintel. Mintel Search. Accessed October 29, 2024. https://www.mintel.com/predictive-insights-trends/.
(26) Sittikijyothin W, Torres D, Gonçalves MP. Modelling the rheological behavior of galactomannan
aqueous solution. Carbohydr Polym. 2005 59(3):339–350. doi: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2004.10.005
(27) Iwata T. Chapter 25. In: Lamellar Gel Network, Cosmetic Science and Technology – Theoretical Principles and
Applications. Elsevier 2017:415–447.
(28) Davies AR, Amin S. Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized
rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 42(3):259–269.
doi: 10.1111/ics.12609
(29) Wade Rafferty DW, Zellia J, Hasman D, Mullay J. Polymer composite principles applied to hair styling
gels. J Cosmet Sci. 2008 59(6):497–508. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00531_4.x
(30) Piggott M. Load Bearing Fibre Composites. 2nd ed. Kluwer Academic Publishers 2002:173.
(31) Juska TD, Puckett PM. Matrix resins and fiber/matrix adhesion. In: Mallick PK, Dekker M, ed.
Composites Engineering Handbook. Taylor &Francis 1997:146–158.
(32) Sperling LH. Introduction to Physical Polymer Science. 2nd ed. John Wiley &Sons, Inc 1992:506–509.

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479 DELIVERING SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS TO IMPROVE WELLBEING
Combining tara with other synthetic or natural polymers can enable synergistic behavior.
Combining tara with acrylate polymers like carbomer or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymers (Carbopol® Ultrez 10 and Carbopol® Ultrez 21 polymers, respectively,
commercially available from Lubrizol, Brecksville, Ohio, USA) result in strong viscosity
synergy, enable the formulation of high viscosity styling gel, and minimize the amount
of synthetic polymer. The addition of a very small concentration of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl
acrylate crosspolymers to 1 wt% tara leads to a much higher viscosity than expected if
an additive behavior was considered (Figure 28). Indeed, a mucilage containing 0.1 wt%
acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and 1 wt% tara reaches 25,300 mPa·s while
individual viscosities obtained are 4,150 mPa·s and 6,120 mPa·s, respectively. This synergy
may be due to the ability of tara to hydrogen-bond with the acrylate polymers.
Combining tara with diutan gum (Kelco-Care™ diutan gum, commercially available from
Lubrizol, Brecksville, Ohio, USA in partnership with CP Kelco, Atlanta, GA, USA) allows
for the formulation of a wide range of product viscosities with superior styling properties
while also maintaining smooth textures and low flaking. Indeed, diutan gum exhibits very
high humidity resistance but relatively low viscosity on its own compared to tara. Thanks to
the synergistic viscosity behavior when combining both gums, it is possible to create a styling
gel that is suitable for a tube format with a low total amount of polymers (1 wt% tara and
0.5 wt% diutan gum) and excellent hold (76% HHSCR). Alternately, 1.5 wt% tara and 0.75
wt% diutan gum may be used to obtain a gel adapted to jar packaging. The combination
of tara and diutan gum leads to translucent styling gels with touchable, humidity-resistant
hold based on natural-based polymers with a wide possible range of viscosities.
Tara also exhibits strong synergy with a quaternized cassia polymer where the synergistic
behavior is not limited to a viscosity boost, but also provides a dramatic increase in
stiffness. For example, a combination of 1 wt% tara and 1 wt% quaternized cassia leads
to a measured stiffness of 12.8N while having a viscosity of 20,000 mPa·s and a smooth
texture. This combination opens the possibilities to formulate naturally derived, extreme
Figure 28. Viscosities of 1 wt% tara, and 0.1 wt% acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer gels used
individually or combined.

480 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
hold styling formulations. Applying polymer composite principles to fixative-treated hair
can help explain tara’s synergetic behavior with quaternized cassia. In a fiber/polymer
composite, the fibers reinforce the polymer matrix to create a stiff compound material. The
key to achieving composite properties is adhesion between the polymer and the fiber. Good
adhesion allows stress transfer from the polymer to the fibers, which prevents premature
failure of the composite. If the polymer/fiber interface (adhesion) is weak, it will dominate
the flexural properties (stiffness) of the composite.30 The flexure (three-point bend) test is
an indirect measure of the fiber/polymer adhesion,31 and the mode of failure depends on
the relative strengths of adhesion (polymer to hair) and cohesion (polymer to polymer). If
the adhesion to the hair is adequate relative to the applied stress, the cohesive properties of
the fixative polymer will contribute to the composite properties. When stress is applied to
a polymer composite, the way it dissipates depends on the balance of adhesive and cohesive
properties of the polymer.32 Even with good polymer cohesion, a polymer composite with
poor adhesion results in early failure and ultimately less stiffness. It is our hypothesis that
tara can bring cohesion to the blends while cationic cassia brings adhesion to the hair.
CONCLUSIONS
A key challenge for the beauty industry is to offer highly performing ingredients while
addressing the growing sustainability needs of the market. In this article, we presented
Table I
Summary of Sustainable Solutions
Product Technology Biodegradability
&naturality
GHG
reduction
Ecodesigned
process
Sustainable
sourcing
Performance
Tetrapeptide-1 Peptide Readily
biodegradable,
NOC*: 99,5%
-Green
chemistry
principles
Renewable
feedstocks
Upper face lifted
appearance
reduced
visibility of
wrinkles
THW biotech
ingredient
(Bacillus
ferment)
Biotech Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
-Clean
fermentation
process, no
solvent
Renewable
feedstocks
Antiaging,
anti-
inflammatory,
soothing
S rebaudiana
extract
Botanical Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
Energy
savings
versus
standard
extraction
process
Phenobio™
(Lubrizol,
Saucats,
France)
subcritical
water
extraction
process
Blockchain
technology
Antiaging,
anti-irritant
Starch acetate/
adipate
(SAA)
Hybrid
polymer
Inherently
biodegradable,
NOC:a 85%
Low carbon
footprint
versus
acrylates
Green
chemistry
principles
Traceable and
renewable
feedstock
Thickening,
suspension,
clarity in
cleansing
C spinosa (tara)
gum
Natural
polymer
Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
Mechanical
production,
no solvent
Positive impact
on local
communities
Multifunctional
film former
and thickener
with excellent
sensory and
synergistic
behavior.
Outperforms
other gums
a NOC with water.

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483
J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.5, 483–523 (September/October 2024)
*Address all correspondence to Donald S. Orth, orthconsulting@msn.com
The Evolution of Cosmetic Preservation and the
Microbiological Challenges Posed by Sustainability
DONALD S. ORTH,
Orth Consulting, LLC., Maineville, Ohio, USA
James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati. Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
Accepted for publication July 8, 2024.
Synopsis
Cosmetic preservation has been evolving over the past 75 years. This review discusses changes in the use
of preservatives, including how the use of hurdle technology has enabled cosmetic scientists to formulate
products with reduced levels of preservatives or that are preservative-free, and how cosmetic preservation has
expanded from being focused just on preservative systems that prevent product contamination to products
that are sustainable because they preserve the environment and the healthy skin microbiome. There are still
gaps in our knowledge that need to be addressed to ensure that future products are adequately preserved, that
they do not encourage development of antibiotic-resistant microorganisms, and that they work with the skin
microbiome to maintain homeostasis.
INTRODUCTION
Cosmetic microbiology is a discipline within cosmetic science. A major objective of cosmetic
microbiology over the past 75 years has been to reduce or eliminate microbial contamination
of cosmetics in over the counter (OTC) drug products. This has been largely addressed by
preservative efficacy testing to demonstrate that formulas are adequately preserved for the
packaging and intended consumer use, by validating procedures used in the manufacturing
plant to maintain microbiological control, by finished product testing that is performed
correctly, and by use of appropriate microbiological release criteria to ensure that products
leaving the manufacturing plant are not contaminated with microorganisms that are able
to grow in the product.
A second goal of cosmetic microbiology has been to develop and use test methods that
are faster, more reliable, more environmentally friendly, and less expensive than the
microbiological test methods that have been used for decades. Such test methods expedite
product development and finished product release, with assurance that the test methods
are better able to recover stressed or metabolically injured microorganisms. This virtually
eliminates the growth of microorganisms in products that were initially tested and found
to meet microbial release specifications. Finding unacceptably high microbial counts in

484 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
finished products days or weeks after product release testing indicated that the products
were within microbiology release specifications often is referred to as bacterial “rebound,”
or the Phoenix Phenomenon.1
A third goal of cosmetic microbiology has been to work with formulators to develop
preservative-free (e.g., self-preserving) products to meet consumer desires for products
that are more consumer friendly, environmentally friendly, and sustainable. Marketing
departments are asking cosmetic scientists and microbiologists to meet consumer demands
for safety and sustainability with products that do not contain preservatives, fragrances,
dyes, toxic chemicals, or packaging that are not biodegradable.
A more recent goal of cosmetic microbiology has been to conduct tests to better understand
the role of skin microflora (e.g., the skin microbiome), to include identification of beneficial
microorganisms, the interactions of these microorganisms with skin and mucous
membranes, and the effects of topical products on the skin microbiome. We are learning
from studies using probiotics and prebiotics to modulate the intestinal microflora, and it
is possible that selected microorganisms and ingredients will benefit desirable commensal
microorganisms in the skin microbiome.
The objective of this review is to discuss the evolution of cosmetic preservation. The
history of microbiology describes scientific advancements that provided the foundation for
the development of cosmetic microbiology. The changing use of preservatives involves a
transition from products with traditional preservatives to products that are preservative-
free. Studies of the skin microbiome are an active area of research in which we are learning
what microorganisms are on the skin and how they interact with each other and with the
skin to maintain homeostasis. It is anticipated that future studies will reveal the effect of
preservatives and products on the skin microbiome. Gaps in our knowledge need to be
identified and addressed in future products to ensure that products are sustainable because
they are adequately preserved, and that they have no adverse effects on the environment
or the skin/skin microbiome ecosystem. In this review, “cosmetic” refers to both color
cosmetics and toiletries.
HISTORY OF MICROBIOLOGY
Long before people knew about microorganisms, there must have been a belief that
something was happening when products spoiled by turning green or black and by
developing off-odors. People learned that some chemical agents were able to help preserve
water, foods, and other products. Hugo described the practice around 450 B.C. of keeping
water potable by storing it in copper or silver containers.2 Salts, oils, and natural balsams
were used for mummification. Over centuries, people learned that foods and other materials
could be preserved by means of salting, drying, fermenting, acidifying, and adding herbs,
honey, and natural spices. These methods of preservation were learned by experience and
were used even though people did not know about the existence of bacteria or other types
of microorganisms.
Microbiology today has evolved from the discoveries of physicians and scientists in Europe
and Asia up through the 19th century. These workers included Leeuwenhoek (used single-
lensed microscopes to observe microbes commonly known as “the Father of Microbiology”),
Pringle (used different salt solutions to prevent meat spoilage—considered to be a
forerunner of tests for the minimum inhibitory concentration of preservatives and other

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