351 Aging Skin Barrier
(67) Fluhr JW, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Transepidermal water loss reflects permeability barrier status:
validation in human and rodent in vivo and ex vivo models. Exp Dermatol. 2006 15:483–492.
(68) Luebberding S, Krueger N, Kerscher M. Age-related changes in skin barrier function: quantitative
evaluation of 150 female subjects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013 35:183–190.
(69) Pan Y, Ma X, Zhao J, et al. The interaction of age and anatomical region influenced skin biophysical
characteristics of Chinese women. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 13:911–926.
(70) Wilhelm KP, Cua AB, Maibach HI. Skin aging: effect on transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum
hydration, skin surface pH, and casual sebum content. Arch Dermatol. 1991 127:1806–1809.
(71) Marks R, Lawson A, Nicholls S. Age-related changes in stratum corneum structure and function. In:
Marks R, Plewig G, eds. Stratum Corneum. New York: Springer-Verlag 1983:175–180.
(72) Kligman AM. Perspectives and problems in cutaneous gerontology. J Invest Dermatol. 1979 73:39–46.
(73) Saijo S, Hashimoto-Kumasaka K, Takahashi M, Tagami H. Functional changes of the stratum corneum
associated with aging and photoaging. J Cosmet Sci. 1991 42:379–383.
(74) Hillebrand GG, Wickett RR. Epidemiology of the skin barrier: host and environmental factors in
dermatologic, cosmeceutic, and cosmetic product development. In: Roberts KW, M, eds. New York:
Informa Health Care 2008:129–156.
(75) Roskos KV, Guy RH. Assessment of skin barrier function using transepidermal water loss: effect of age.
Pharm Res. 1989 6:949–953.
(76) Luebberding S, Krueger N, Kerscher M. Age-related changes in male skin: quantitative evaluation of
one hundred and fifty male subjects. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014 27:9–17.
(77) Akdeniz M, Gabriel S, Lichterfeld-Kottner A, Blume-Peytavi U, Kottner J. Transepidermal water loss in
healthy adults: a systematic review and meta-analysis update. Br J Dermatol. 2018 179:1049–1055.
(78) Roskos KV, Maibach HI, Guy RH. The effect of aging on percutaneous absorption in man. J
Pharmacokinet Biopharm. 1989 17:617–630.
(79) Bettley FR, Donghue E. The irritant effect of soap upon the normal skin. Br J Dermatol. 1960 72:67–76.
(80) Grove GL. Age-associated changes in integumental reactivity. In: Leveque J, Agache P, eds. Aging Skin.
New York: Marcel Dekker 1993:227–238.
(81) Schwindt DA, Wilhelm KP, Miller DL, Maibach HI. Cumulative irritation in older and younger skin: a
comparison. Acta Derm Venereol. 1998 78:279–283.
(82) Cua AB, Wilhelm KP, Maibach HI. Cutaneous sodium lauryl sulphate irritation potential: age and
regional variability. Br J Dermatol. 1990 123:607–613.
(83) Robinson MK. Population differences in acute skin irritation responses. Race, sex, age, sensitive skin and
repeat subject comparisons. Contact Dermatitis. 2002 46:86–93.
(84) Bowman JP, Kligman AM, Stoudemayer T, Nicholson J. Effects of age on human cumulative irritation
responses. J Cosmet Sci. 2005 56:213–218.
(85) Ghadially R, Brown BE, Sequeira-Martin SM, Feingold KR, Elias PM. The aged epidermal permeability
barrier. Structural, functional, and lipid biochemical abnormalities in humans and a senescent murine
model. J Clin Invest. 1995 95:2281–2290.
(86) Jansen LH, Hojyo-Tomoko MT, Kligman AM. Improved fluorescence technique for estimating stratum
corneum turnover time. Br J Dermatol. 1974 90:9–11.
(87) Roberts D, Marks R. The determination of regional and age variations in the rate of desquamation: a
comparison of four techniques. J Invest Dermatol. 1980 74:13–16.
(88) Marks R. Influence of age on stratum corneum cohesion, desquamation and epidermal turnover. In:
Leveque JL, Agache P, eds. Aging Skin. New York: Marcel Dekker 1993:217–226.
(89) Engelke M, Jensen JM, Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage S, Proksch E. Effects of xerosis and ageing on
epidermal proliferation and differentiation. Br J Dermatol. 1997 137:219–225.
(90) Kreipe H, Heidebrecht HJ, Hansen S, et al. A new proliferation-associated nuclear antigen detectable in
paraffin-embedded tissues by the monoclonal antibody Ki-S1. Am J Pathol. 1993 142:3–9.
352 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(91) Grove GL. Age-related differences in healing of superficial skin wounds in humans. Arch Dermatol Res.
1982 272:381–385.
(92) Norman RA. Xerosis and pruritus in the elderly: recognition and management. Dermatol Ther.
2003 16:254–259.
(93) Seyfarth F, Schliemann S, Antonov D, Elsner P. Dry skin, barrier function, and irritant contact dermatitis
in the elderly. Clin Dermatol. 2011 29:31–36.
(94) White-Chu EF, Reddy M. Dry skin in the elderly: complexities of a common problem. Clin Dermatol.
2011 29:37–42.
(95) Norman RA. Xerosis and pruritus in elderly patients, Part 2. Ostomy Wound Manage. 2006 52:18–20.
(96) Norman RA. Xerosis and pruritus in elderly patients, Part 1. Ostomy Wound Manage. 2006 52:12–14.
(97) Berger TG, Shive M, Harper GM. Pruritus in the older patient: a clinical review. JAMA.
2013 310:2443–2450.
(98) Patel T, Yosipovitch G. The management of chronic pruritus in the elderly. Skin Therapy Lett. 2010 15:5–9.
(99) Harding CR, Watkinson A, Rawlings AV, Scott IR. Dry skin, moisturization and corneodesmolysis. Int
J Cosmet Sci. 2000 22:21–52.
(100) Horii I, Nakayama Y, Obata M, Tagami H. Stratum corneum hydration and amino acid content in
xerotic skin. Br J Dermatol. 1989 121:587–592.
(101) Jacobson TM, Yuksel KU, Geesin JC, et al. Effects of aging and xerosis on the amino acid composition
of human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1990 95:296–300.
(102) Takahashi M, Tezuka T. The content of free amino acids in the stratum corneum is increased in senile
xerosis. Arch Dermatol Res. 2004 295:448–452.
(103) Tagami H. Functional characteristics of the stratum corneum in photoaged skin in comparison with
those found in intrinsic aging. Arch Dermatol Res. 2008 300 Suppl 1.
(104) Biniek K, Kaczvinsky J, Matts P, Dauskardt RH. Understanding age-induced alterations to the
biomechanical barrier function of human stratum corneum. J Dermatol Sci. 2015 80:94–101.
(105) Patterson MJ, Galloway SD, Nimmo MA. Variations in regional sweat composition in normal human
males. Exp Physiol. 2000 85:869–875.
(106) Ronquist G, Andersson A, Bendsoe N, Falck B. Human epidermal energy metabolism is functionally
anaerobic. Exp Dermatol. 2003 12:572–579.
(107) Prahl S, Kueper T, Biernoth T, et al. Aging skin is functionally anaerobic: importance of coenzyme Q10
for anti aging skin care. Biofactors. 2008 32:245–255.
(108) Fenske NA, Lober CW. Structural and functional changes of normal aging skin. J Am Acad Dermatol.
1986 15:571–585.
(109) Pochi PE, Strauss JS, Downing DT. Age-related changes in sebaceous gland activity. J Invest Dermatol.
1979 73:108–111.
(110) Fluhr JW, Mao-Qiang M, Brown BE, et al. Glycerol regulates stratum corneum hydration in sebaceous
gland deficient (asebia) mice. J Invest Dermatol. 2003 120:728–737.
(111) Sato J, Denda M, Nakanishi J, Nomura J, Koyama J. Cholesterol sulfate inhibits proteases that are
involved in desquamation of stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol. 1998 111:189–193.
(112) Trojahn C, Dobos G, Blume-Peytavi U, Kottner J. The skin barrier function: Differences between
intrinsic and extrinsic aging. G Ital Dermatol Venereol. 2015 150:687–692.
(113) Mark LS, Pittenger JB, Hines H, et al. Wrinkling and head shape as coordinated sources of age level
information. Percept Psychophys. 1980 27:117–124.
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351 Aging Skin Barrier
(67) Fluhr JW, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Transepidermal water loss reflects permeability barrier status:
validation in human and rodent in vivo and ex vivo models. Exp Dermatol. 2006 15:483–492.
(68) Luebberding S, Krueger N, Kerscher M. Age-related changes in skin barrier function: quantitative
evaluation of 150 female subjects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013 35:183–190.
(69) Pan Y, Ma X, Zhao J, et al. The interaction of age and anatomical region influenced skin biophysical
characteristics of Chinese women. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 13:911–926.
(70) Wilhelm KP, Cua AB, Maibach HI. Skin aging: effect on transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum
hydration, skin surface pH, and casual sebum content. Arch Dermatol. 1991 127:1806–1809.
(71) Marks R, Lawson A, Nicholls S. Age-related changes in stratum corneum structure and function. In:
Marks R, Plewig G, eds. Stratum Corneum. New York: Springer-Verlag 1983:175–180.
(72) Kligman AM. Perspectives and problems in cutaneous gerontology. J Invest Dermatol. 1979 73:39–46.
(73) Saijo S, Hashimoto-Kumasaka K, Takahashi M, Tagami H. Functional changes of the stratum corneum
associated with aging and photoaging. J Cosmet Sci. 1991 42:379–383.
(74) Hillebrand GG, Wickett RR. Epidemiology of the skin barrier: host and environmental factors in
dermatologic, cosmeceutic, and cosmetic product development. In: Roberts KW, M, eds. New York:
Informa Health Care 2008:129–156.
(75) Roskos KV, Guy RH. Assessment of skin barrier function using transepidermal water loss: effect of age.
Pharm Res. 1989 6:949–953.
(76) Luebberding S, Krueger N, Kerscher M. Age-related changes in male skin: quantitative evaluation of
one hundred and fifty male subjects. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014 27:9–17.
(77) Akdeniz M, Gabriel S, Lichterfeld-Kottner A, Blume-Peytavi U, Kottner J. Transepidermal water loss in
healthy adults: a systematic review and meta-analysis update. Br J Dermatol. 2018 179:1049–1055.
(78) Roskos KV, Maibach HI, Guy RH. The effect of aging on percutaneous absorption in man. J
Pharmacokinet Biopharm. 1989 17:617–630.
(79) Bettley FR, Donghue E. The irritant effect of soap upon the normal skin. Br J Dermatol. 1960 72:67–76.
(80) Grove GL. Age-associated changes in integumental reactivity. In: Leveque J, Agache P, eds. Aging Skin.
New York: Marcel Dekker 1993:227–238.
(81) Schwindt DA, Wilhelm KP, Miller DL, Maibach HI. Cumulative irritation in older and younger skin: a
comparison. Acta Derm Venereol. 1998 78:279–283.
(82) Cua AB, Wilhelm KP, Maibach HI. Cutaneous sodium lauryl sulphate irritation potential: age and
regional variability. Br J Dermatol. 1990 123:607–613.
(83) Robinson MK. Population differences in acute skin irritation responses. Race, sex, age, sensitive skin and
repeat subject comparisons. Contact Dermatitis. 2002 46:86–93.
(84) Bowman JP, Kligman AM, Stoudemayer T, Nicholson J. Effects of age on human cumulative irritation
responses. J Cosmet Sci. 2005 56:213–218.
(85) Ghadially R, Brown BE, Sequeira-Martin SM, Feingold KR, Elias PM. The aged epidermal permeability
barrier. Structural, functional, and lipid biochemical abnormalities in humans and a senescent murine
model. J Clin Invest. 1995 95:2281–2290.
(86) Jansen LH, Hojyo-Tomoko MT, Kligman AM. Improved fluorescence technique for estimating stratum
corneum turnover time. Br J Dermatol. 1974 90:9–11.
(87) Roberts D, Marks R. The determination of regional and age variations in the rate of desquamation: a
comparison of four techniques. J Invest Dermatol. 1980 74:13–16.
(88) Marks R. Influence of age on stratum corneum cohesion, desquamation and epidermal turnover. In:
Leveque JL, Agache P, eds. Aging Skin. New York: Marcel Dekker 1993:217–226.
(89) Engelke M, Jensen JM, Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage S, Proksch E. Effects of xerosis and ageing on
epidermal proliferation and differentiation. Br J Dermatol. 1997 137:219–225.
(90) Kreipe H, Heidebrecht HJ, Hansen S, et al. A new proliferation-associated nuclear antigen detectable in
paraffin-embedded tissues by the monoclonal antibody Ki-S1. Am J Pathol. 1993 142:3–9.
352 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(91) Grove GL. Age-related differences in healing of superficial skin wounds in humans. Arch Dermatol Res.
1982 272:381–385.
(92) Norman RA. Xerosis and pruritus in the elderly: recognition and management. Dermatol Ther.
2003 16:254–259.
(93) Seyfarth F, Schliemann S, Antonov D, Elsner P. Dry skin, barrier function, and irritant contact dermatitis
in the elderly. Clin Dermatol. 2011 29:31–36.
(94) White-Chu EF, Reddy M. Dry skin in the elderly: complexities of a common problem. Clin Dermatol.
2011 29:37–42.
(95) Norman RA. Xerosis and pruritus in elderly patients, Part 2. Ostomy Wound Manage. 2006 52:18–20.
(96) Norman RA. Xerosis and pruritus in elderly patients, Part 1. Ostomy Wound Manage. 2006 52:12–14.
(97) Berger TG, Shive M, Harper GM. Pruritus in the older patient: a clinical review. JAMA.
2013 310:2443–2450.
(98) Patel T, Yosipovitch G. The management of chronic pruritus in the elderly. Skin Therapy Lett. 2010 15:5–9.
(99) Harding CR, Watkinson A, Rawlings AV, Scott IR. Dry skin, moisturization and corneodesmolysis. Int
J Cosmet Sci. 2000 22:21–52.
(100) Horii I, Nakayama Y, Obata M, Tagami H. Stratum corneum hydration and amino acid content in
xerotic skin. Br J Dermatol. 1989 121:587–592.
(101) Jacobson TM, Yuksel KU, Geesin JC, et al. Effects of aging and xerosis on the amino acid composition
of human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1990 95:296–300.
(102) Takahashi M, Tezuka T. The content of free amino acids in the stratum corneum is increased in senile
xerosis. Arch Dermatol Res. 2004 295:448–452.
(103) Tagami H. Functional characteristics of the stratum corneum in photoaged skin in comparison with
those found in intrinsic aging. Arch Dermatol Res. 2008 300 Suppl 1.
(104) Biniek K, Kaczvinsky J, Matts P, Dauskardt RH. Understanding age-induced alterations to the
biomechanical barrier function of human stratum corneum. J Dermatol Sci. 2015 80:94–101.
(105) Patterson MJ, Galloway SD, Nimmo MA. Variations in regional sweat composition in normal human
males. Exp Physiol. 2000 85:869–875.
(106) Ronquist G, Andersson A, Bendsoe N, Falck B. Human epidermal energy metabolism is functionally
anaerobic. Exp Dermatol. 2003 12:572–579.
(107) Prahl S, Kueper T, Biernoth T, et al. Aging skin is functionally anaerobic: importance of coenzyme Q10
for anti aging skin care. Biofactors. 2008 32:245–255.
(108) Fenske NA, Lober CW. Structural and functional changes of normal aging skin. J Am Acad Dermatol.
1986 15:571–585.
(109) Pochi PE, Strauss JS, Downing DT. Age-related changes in sebaceous gland activity. J Invest Dermatol.
1979 73:108–111.
(110) Fluhr JW, Mao-Qiang M, Brown BE, et al. Glycerol regulates stratum corneum hydration in sebaceous
gland deficient (asebia) mice. J Invest Dermatol. 2003 120:728–737.
(111) Sato J, Denda M, Nakanishi J, Nomura J, Koyama J. Cholesterol sulfate inhibits proteases that are
involved in desquamation of stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol. 1998 111:189–193.
(112) Trojahn C, Dobos G, Blume-Peytavi U, Kottner J. The skin barrier function: Differences between
intrinsic and extrinsic aging. G Ital Dermatol Venereol. 2015 150:687–692.
(113) Mark LS, Pittenger JB, Hines H, et al. Wrinkling and head shape as coordinated sources of age level
information. Percept Psychophys. 1980 27:117–124.

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