479 DELIVERING SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS TO IMPROVE WELLBEING
Combining tara with other synthetic or natural polymers can enable synergistic behavior.
Combining tara with acrylate polymers like carbomer or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymers (Carbopol® Ultrez 10 and Carbopol® Ultrez 21 polymers, respectively,
commercially available from Lubrizol, Brecksville, Ohio, USA) result in strong viscosity
synergy, enable the formulation of high viscosity styling gel, and minimize the amount
of synthetic polymer. The addition of a very small concentration of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl
acrylate crosspolymers to 1 wt% tara leads to a much higher viscosity than expected if
an additive behavior was considered (Figure 28). Indeed, a mucilage containing 0.1 wt%
acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and 1 wt% tara reaches 25,300 mPa·s while
individual viscosities obtained are 4,150 mPa·s and 6,120 mPa·s, respectively. This synergy
may be due to the ability of tara to hydrogen-bond with the acrylate polymers.
Combining tara with diutan gum (Kelco-Care™ diutan gum, commercially available from
Lubrizol, Brecksville, Ohio, USA in partnership with CP Kelco, Atlanta, GA, USA) allows
for the formulation of a wide range of product viscosities with superior styling properties
while also maintaining smooth textures and low flaking. Indeed, diutan gum exhibits very
high humidity resistance but relatively low viscosity on its own compared to tara. Thanks to
the synergistic viscosity behavior when combining both gums, it is possible to create a styling
gel that is suitable for a tube format with a low total amount of polymers (1 wt% tara and
0.5 wt% diutan gum) and excellent hold (76% HHSCR). Alternately, 1.5 wt% tara and 0.75
wt% diutan gum may be used to obtain a gel adapted to jar packaging. The combination
of tara and diutan gum leads to translucent styling gels with touchable, humidity-resistant
hold based on natural-based polymers with a wide possible range of viscosities.
Tara also exhibits strong synergy with a quaternized cassia polymer where the synergistic
behavior is not limited to a viscosity boost, but also provides a dramatic increase in
stiffness. For example, a combination of 1 wt% tara and 1 wt% quaternized cassia leads
to a measured stiffness of 12.8N while having a viscosity of 20,000 mPa·s and a smooth
texture. This combination opens the possibilities to formulate naturally derived, extreme
Figure 28. Viscosities of 1 wt% tara, and 0.1 wt% acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer gels used
individually or combined.
480 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
hold styling formulations. Applying polymer composite principles to fixative-treated hair
can help explain tara’s synergetic behavior with quaternized cassia. In a fiber/polymer
composite, the fibers reinforce the polymer matrix to create a stiff compound material. The
key to achieving composite properties is adhesion between the polymer and the fiber. Good
adhesion allows stress transfer from the polymer to the fibers, which prevents premature
failure of the composite. If the polymer/fiber interface (adhesion) is weak, it will dominate
the flexural properties (stiffness) of the composite.30 The flexure (three-point bend) test is
an indirect measure of the fiber/polymer adhesion,31 and the mode of failure depends on
the relative strengths of adhesion (polymer to hair) and cohesion (polymer to polymer). If
the adhesion to the hair is adequate relative to the applied stress, the cohesive properties of
the fixative polymer will contribute to the composite properties. When stress is applied to
a polymer composite, the way it dissipates depends on the balance of adhesive and cohesive
properties of the polymer.32 Even with good polymer cohesion, a polymer composite with
poor adhesion results in early failure and ultimately less stiffness. It is our hypothesis that
tara can bring cohesion to the blends while cationic cassia brings adhesion to the hair.
CONCLUSIONS
A key challenge for the beauty industry is to offer highly performing ingredients while
addressing the growing sustainability needs of the market. In this article, we presented
Table I
Summary of Sustainable Solutions
Product Technology Biodegradability
&naturality
GHG
reduction
Ecodesigned
process
Sustainable
sourcing
Performance
Tetrapeptide-1 Peptide Readily
biodegradable,
NOC*: 99,5%
-Green
chemistry
principles
Renewable
feedstocks
Upper face lifted
appearance
reduced
visibility of
wrinkles
THW biotech
ingredient
(Bacillus
ferment)
Biotech Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
-Clean
fermentation
process, no
solvent
Renewable
feedstocks
Antiaging,
anti-
inflammatory,
soothing
S rebaudiana
extract
Botanical Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
Energy
savings
versus
standard
extraction
process
Phenobio™
(Lubrizol,
Saucats,
France)
subcritical
water
extraction
process
Blockchain
technology
Antiaging,
anti-irritant
Starch acetate/
adipate
(SAA)
Hybrid
polymer
Inherently
biodegradable,
NOC:a 85%
Low carbon
footprint
versus
acrylates
Green
chemistry
principles
Traceable and
renewable
feedstock
Thickening,
suspension,
clarity in
cleansing
C spinosa (tara)
gum
Natural
polymer
Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
Mechanical
production,
no solvent
Positive impact
on local
communities
Multifunctional
film former
and thickener
with excellent
sensory and
synergistic
behavior.
Outperforms
other gums
a NOC with water.
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Extracted Text (may have errors)

479 DELIVERING SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS TO IMPROVE WELLBEING
Combining tara with other synthetic or natural polymers can enable synergistic behavior.
Combining tara with acrylate polymers like carbomer or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymers (Carbopol® Ultrez 10 and Carbopol® Ultrez 21 polymers, respectively,
commercially available from Lubrizol, Brecksville, Ohio, USA) result in strong viscosity
synergy, enable the formulation of high viscosity styling gel, and minimize the amount
of synthetic polymer. The addition of a very small concentration of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl
acrylate crosspolymers to 1 wt% tara leads to a much higher viscosity than expected if
an additive behavior was considered (Figure 28). Indeed, a mucilage containing 0.1 wt%
acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and 1 wt% tara reaches 25,300 mPa·s while
individual viscosities obtained are 4,150 mPa·s and 6,120 mPa·s, respectively. This synergy
may be due to the ability of tara to hydrogen-bond with the acrylate polymers.
Combining tara with diutan gum (Kelco-Care™ diutan gum, commercially available from
Lubrizol, Brecksville, Ohio, USA in partnership with CP Kelco, Atlanta, GA, USA) allows
for the formulation of a wide range of product viscosities with superior styling properties
while also maintaining smooth textures and low flaking. Indeed, diutan gum exhibits very
high humidity resistance but relatively low viscosity on its own compared to tara. Thanks to
the synergistic viscosity behavior when combining both gums, it is possible to create a styling
gel that is suitable for a tube format with a low total amount of polymers (1 wt% tara and
0.5 wt% diutan gum) and excellent hold (76% HHSCR). Alternately, 1.5 wt% tara and 0.75
wt% diutan gum may be used to obtain a gel adapted to jar packaging. The combination
of tara and diutan gum leads to translucent styling gels with touchable, humidity-resistant
hold based on natural-based polymers with a wide possible range of viscosities.
Tara also exhibits strong synergy with a quaternized cassia polymer where the synergistic
behavior is not limited to a viscosity boost, but also provides a dramatic increase in
stiffness. For example, a combination of 1 wt% tara and 1 wt% quaternized cassia leads
to a measured stiffness of 12.8N while having a viscosity of 20,000 mPa·s and a smooth
texture. This combination opens the possibilities to formulate naturally derived, extreme
Figure 28. Viscosities of 1 wt% tara, and 0.1 wt% acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer gels used
individually or combined.
480 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
hold styling formulations. Applying polymer composite principles to fixative-treated hair
can help explain tara’s synergetic behavior with quaternized cassia. In a fiber/polymer
composite, the fibers reinforce the polymer matrix to create a stiff compound material. The
key to achieving composite properties is adhesion between the polymer and the fiber. Good
adhesion allows stress transfer from the polymer to the fibers, which prevents premature
failure of the composite. If the polymer/fiber interface (adhesion) is weak, it will dominate
the flexural properties (stiffness) of the composite.30 The flexure (three-point bend) test is
an indirect measure of the fiber/polymer adhesion,31 and the mode of failure depends on
the relative strengths of adhesion (polymer to hair) and cohesion (polymer to polymer). If
the adhesion to the hair is adequate relative to the applied stress, the cohesive properties of
the fixative polymer will contribute to the composite properties. When stress is applied to
a polymer composite, the way it dissipates depends on the balance of adhesive and cohesive
properties of the polymer.32 Even with good polymer cohesion, a polymer composite with
poor adhesion results in early failure and ultimately less stiffness. It is our hypothesis that
tara can bring cohesion to the blends while cationic cassia brings adhesion to the hair.
CONCLUSIONS
A key challenge for the beauty industry is to offer highly performing ingredients while
addressing the growing sustainability needs of the market. In this article, we presented
Table I
Summary of Sustainable Solutions
Product Technology Biodegradability
&naturality
GHG
reduction
Ecodesigned
process
Sustainable
sourcing
Performance
Tetrapeptide-1 Peptide Readily
biodegradable,
NOC*: 99,5%
-Green
chemistry
principles
Renewable
feedstocks
Upper face lifted
appearance
reduced
visibility of
wrinkles
THW biotech
ingredient
(Bacillus
ferment)
Biotech Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
-Clean
fermentation
process, no
solvent
Renewable
feedstocks
Antiaging,
anti-
inflammatory,
soothing
S rebaudiana
extract
Botanical Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
Energy
savings
versus
standard
extraction
process
Phenobio™
(Lubrizol,
Saucats,
France)
subcritical
water
extraction
process
Blockchain
technology
Antiaging,
anti-irritant
Starch acetate/
adipate
(SAA)
Hybrid
polymer
Inherently
biodegradable,
NOC:a 85%
Low carbon
footprint
versus
acrylates
Green
chemistry
principles
Traceable and
renewable
feedstock
Thickening,
suspension,
clarity in
cleansing
C spinosa (tara)
gum
Natural
polymer
Readily
biodegradable
and 100%
natural
Mechanical
production,
no solvent
Positive impact
on local
communities
Multifunctional
film former
and thickener
with excellent
sensory and
synergistic
behavior.
Outperforms
other gums
a NOC with water.

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