Sustainable Hair

445 SUSTAINABLE HAIR
(13) Mechanical Properties and Structure of Alpha-Keratin Fibers, M. Feughelman, University of New South
Wales Press 1997.
(14) Robbins CR. The Cell Membrane Complex: three related but different cellular cohesion components of
mammalian fibers. J Cosmet Sci. 2009 60(4):437–465.
(15) Masukawa Y, Tsujimura H, Tanamachi H, Naritas H, Imokawa G. Damage to human hair caused
by repeated bleaching combined with daily weathering during daily life activities,. Exog. Dermatology.
2004 3:273–281.
(16) Garcia ML, Diaz J. Combability experiments on human hair. J Cosmet Sci. 1976 27:379–398.
(17) Evans TA. Evaluating hair onditioning with instrumental combing, Cosmetics &Toiletries. August
2011 126(8):558–563.
(18) Evans TA. Measuring hair strength, part 1: Stress-strain curves. Cosmetics &Toiletries. August
2013 128(8):590–594.
(19) Evans TA. Beating the damaging effects of heat on hair. Cosmetics &Toiletries. June 2015 130(5):28–33.
(20) Evans TA. The effects of sun on hair. Cosmetics &Toiletries. September 2016 131(7): 46–52.
(21) Evans TA. Fatigue testing of hair – A statistical approach to hair breakage. J Cosmet Sci. November/12
2009 60(6):599–616. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00580_2.x
(22) Evans TA. Single Hair Fiber Fatigue Testing – A Review, IFSCC Magazine. Vol 24(3) 2021:121–127.
(23) Bryant H, Porter C, Diridollou S, Yang G. Hair problems, Physical Characteristics and grooming
practices based on ethnicity. J Cosmet Sci. 2008 59:182–183.
(24) Evans TA. Why is African hair so fragile? Cosmet Toiletries. June 2020 135(6), 38–44.
(25) Evans TA, TA, Park K. A statistical approach to hair breakage. II. Repeated grooming experiments.
J Cosmet Sci. November/12 2010 61:439–455.
(26) Swift JA. Some simple theoretical considerations on the bending stiffness of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci.
1995 17(6):245–253. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00129.x
(27) Breakspear S, Mamada A, Itou T, Noeker B. Contribution of the cuticle to the stiffness of human hair.
IFSCC Mag. 2015 1:25–34.
(28) Persaud D, Kamath YK. Torsional methods for evaluating hair damage and performance of hair care
ingredients. J Cosmet Sci. 2004 55(suppl):S65–S77. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00257_7.x
(29) Evans TA. Measuring the water content of hair. Cosmetics &Toiletries. March 2014 129(2):64–69.
(30) Evans TA. Adsorption properties of hair. In: Evans TA, Wickett RR, eds. Practical Modern Hair Science.
Allured Books 2012.
(31) Davis MG, Stofel S. Consumer perception versus single and bulk fiber technical measurements. In: Proc.,
16th International Hair Science Symposium. Weimer 2009.
(32) Davis MG, Evans, TA, Stofel S. Moisture and “moisturization”. In: Hair. in press.
(33) Evans TA. Equating the Measurement of Hair Shine, Cosmetics &Toiletries. January/February
2016 131(1),28–34.
(34) Wolfram LJ, Aldrecht L. Torsional behavior of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1985 36:87–99.
(35) Bustard HK, Smith RW. Investigation into the scattering of light by human hair. Appl Opt.
1991 30(24):3485–3491. doi:10.1364/AO.30.003485
(36) McMullen R, Jachowicz J. Optical properties of hair: Parts 1 &2. J Cosmet Sci. 2003 54:335–351: and
J. Cosmet. Sci., 2004:55:29–47.
(37) Evans TA. Defining and controlling frizz. Cosmetics &Toiletries. May 2015 130(4):46–53.
(38) Evans TA. Hair volume and body – A [technical dissertation]. Cosmetics &Toiletries. June 2018 133(6):48–55.
(39) Hough PS, Huey JE, Tolgyesi WS. Hair body. J Cosmet Sci. 1976:27:571–578.
(40) Theis ER, Lams MM. The protein-formaldehyde reaction. Biol Chem. 1944 154(1):99–103. doi:10.1016/
S0021-9258(18)71947-9

446 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(41) Thibaut S, Gaillard O, Bouhanna P, Cannell DW, Bernard BA. Human hair shape is programmed from
the bulb. Br J Dermatol. 2005 152(4):632–638. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2005.06521.x
(42) McMullen RL, Laura D, Chen S, Koelmel D, Zhang G, Gillece T. Determination of physiochemical
properties of delipidized hair. J Cosmet Sci. 2013 64(5):355–370.
(43) Aslan S, Evans TA, Wares J, Norwood K, Idelcaid Y, Velkov D. Physical Characterization of the hair of
Mexican women. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 41(1):36–45. doi:10.1111/ics.12509
(44) Evans TA. Use of Single Fiber Fatiguing Experiments to Understand Breakage in Textured Hair: Part 2: Testing
Panelists Hair in press.
(45) Horio M, Kondo T. Crimping of wool fibers, Tex Res. J. 1953 23:373–386.
(46) Mercer EH. The heterogeneity of the keratin fibers. Text Res J. 1953 23(6):388–397.
doi:10.1177/004051755302300603
(47) Swift JA. The histology of keratin fibers. In: Asquith RS, ed. The Chemistry of Natural Protein Fibers.
Plenum Press 1977:81–146.
(48) Thibaut S, Barbarat P, Leroy F, Bernard BA. Human hair keratin network and curvature. Int J Dermatol.
2007 46(suppl 1):7–10. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03454.x**
(49) Kaplin IJ, Whiteley KJ. The comparative arrangement of microfibrils in Ortho-, meso-, and paracortical
cells of Merino wool fibers. J. Tex. Inst. 1977 11:384–386.
(50) Bryson WG, Harland DP, Caldwell JP, et al. Cortical cell types and intermediate filament arrangements
correlate with fiber curvature in Japanese human hair. J Struct Biol. 2009 166(1):46–58. doi:10.1016/j.
jsb.2008.12.006

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445 SUSTAINABLE HAIR
(13) Mechanical Properties and Structure of Alpha-Keratin Fibers, M. Feughelman, University of New South
Wales Press 1997.
(14) Robbins CR. The Cell Membrane Complex: three related but different cellular cohesion components of
mammalian fibers. J Cosmet Sci. 2009 60(4):437–465.
(15) Masukawa Y, Tsujimura H, Tanamachi H, Naritas H, Imokawa G. Damage to human hair caused
by repeated bleaching combined with daily weathering during daily life activities,. Exog. Dermatology.
2004 3:273–281.
(16) Garcia ML, Diaz J. Combability experiments on human hair. J Cosmet Sci. 1976 27:379–398.
(17) Evans TA. Evaluating hair onditioning with instrumental combing, Cosmetics &Toiletries. August
2011 126(8):558–563.
(18) Evans TA. Measuring hair strength, part 1: Stress-strain curves. Cosmetics &Toiletries. August
2013 128(8):590–594.
(19) Evans TA. Beating the damaging effects of heat on hair. Cosmetics &Toiletries. June 2015 130(5):28–33.
(20) Evans TA. The effects of sun on hair. Cosmetics &Toiletries. September 2016 131(7): 46–52.
(21) Evans TA. Fatigue testing of hair – A statistical approach to hair breakage. J Cosmet Sci. November/12
2009 60(6):599–616. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00580_2.x
(22) Evans TA. Single Hair Fiber Fatigue Testing – A Review, IFSCC Magazine. Vol 24(3) 2021:121–127.
(23) Bryant H, Porter C, Diridollou S, Yang G. Hair problems, Physical Characteristics and grooming
practices based on ethnicity. J Cosmet Sci. 2008 59:182–183.
(24) Evans TA. Why is African hair so fragile? Cosmet Toiletries. June 2020 135(6), 38–44.
(25) Evans TA, TA, Park K. A statistical approach to hair breakage. II. Repeated grooming experiments.
J Cosmet Sci. November/12 2010 61:439–455.
(26) Swift JA. Some simple theoretical considerations on the bending stiffness of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci.
1995 17(6):245–253. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00129.x
(27) Breakspear S, Mamada A, Itou T, Noeker B. Contribution of the cuticle to the stiffness of human hair.
IFSCC Mag. 2015 1:25–34.
(28) Persaud D, Kamath YK. Torsional methods for evaluating hair damage and performance of hair care
ingredients. J Cosmet Sci. 2004 55(suppl):S65–S77. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00257_7.x
(29) Evans TA. Measuring the water content of hair. Cosmetics &Toiletries. March 2014 129(2):64–69.
(30) Evans TA. Adsorption properties of hair. In: Evans TA, Wickett RR, eds. Practical Modern Hair Science.
Allured Books 2012.
(31) Davis MG, Stofel S. Consumer perception versus single and bulk fiber technical measurements. In: Proc.,
16th International Hair Science Symposium. Weimer 2009.
(32) Davis MG, Evans, TA, Stofel S. Moisture and “moisturization”. In: Hair. in press.
(33) Evans TA. Equating the Measurement of Hair Shine, Cosmetics &Toiletries. January/February
2016 131(1),28–34.
(34) Wolfram LJ, Aldrecht L. Torsional behavior of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1985 36:87–99.
(35) Bustard HK, Smith RW. Investigation into the scattering of light by human hair. Appl Opt.
1991 30(24):3485–3491. doi:10.1364/AO.30.003485
(36) McMullen R, Jachowicz J. Optical properties of hair: Parts 1 &2. J Cosmet Sci. 2003 54:335–351: and
J. Cosmet. Sci., 2004:55:29–47.
(37) Evans TA. Defining and controlling frizz. Cosmetics &Toiletries. May 2015 130(4):46–53.
(38) Evans TA. Hair volume and body – A [technical dissertation]. Cosmetics &Toiletries. June 2018 133(6):48–55.
(39) Hough PS, Huey JE, Tolgyesi WS. Hair body. J Cosmet Sci. 1976:27:571–578.
(40) Theis ER, Lams MM. The protein-formaldehyde reaction. Biol Chem. 1944 154(1):99–103. doi:10.1016/
S0021-9258(18)71947-9

446 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(41) Thibaut S, Gaillard O, Bouhanna P, Cannell DW, Bernard BA. Human hair shape is programmed from
the bulb. Br J Dermatol. 2005 152(4):632–638. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2005.06521.x
(42) McMullen RL, Laura D, Chen S, Koelmel D, Zhang G, Gillece T. Determination of physiochemical
properties of delipidized hair. J Cosmet Sci. 2013 64(5):355–370.
(43) Aslan S, Evans TA, Wares J, Norwood K, Idelcaid Y, Velkov D. Physical Characterization of the hair of
Mexican women. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 41(1):36–45. doi:10.1111/ics.12509
(44) Evans TA. Use of Single Fiber Fatiguing Experiments to Understand Breakage in Textured Hair: Part 2: Testing
Panelists Hair in press.
(45) Horio M, Kondo T. Crimping of wool fibers, Tex Res. J. 1953 23:373–386.
(46) Mercer EH. The heterogeneity of the keratin fibers. Text Res J. 1953 23(6):388–397.
doi:10.1177/004051755302300603
(47) Swift JA. The histology of keratin fibers. In: Asquith RS, ed. The Chemistry of Natural Protein Fibers.
Plenum Press 1977:81–146.
(48) Thibaut S, Barbarat P, Leroy F, Bernard BA. Human hair keratin network and curvature. Int J Dermatol.
2007 46(suppl 1):7–10. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03454.x**
(49) Kaplin IJ, Whiteley KJ. The comparative arrangement of microfibrils in Ortho-, meso-, and paracortical
cells of Merino wool fibers. J. Tex. Inst. 1977 11:384–386.
(50) Bryson WG, Harland DP, Caldwell JP, et al. Cortical cell types and intermediate filament arrangements
correlate with fiber curvature in Japanese human hair. J Struct Biol. 2009 166(1):46–58. doi:10.1016/j.
jsb.2008.12.006

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447
J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.5, 447–482 (September/October 2024)
Delivering Sustainable Solutions to Improve Wellbeing
ALBERT SOLEY, M. CARMEN LIDÓN-MOYA, CAROLE LEPILLEUR,
DENISE WADE RAFFERTY, MATHILDE ALLEGRE AND SYLESH VENKATARAMAN
Lipotec SAU Isaac Peral 17 (Pol. Industrial Camí Ral), Barcelona, Spain (A.S., M.C.L.-M.)
Lubrizol, Brecksville, Ohio, USA (C.L., D.W.R.)
Lubrizol France, Rouen, France (M.A.)
Lipotec USA, Inc., Lewisville, Texas, USA (S.V.)
Accepted for publication September 23, 2024.
Synopsis
Sustainable solutions are increasingly in demand in the beauty industry, and one of the biggest challenges in
delivering sustainable materials is ensuring the materials maintain the required performance. In this article,
several new technologies are presented that meet sustainable solutions requirements while also providing
excellent performance. These technologies include three novel active ingredients (Thermal Waters biotech
ingredient, tetrapeptide-1, and Stevia rebaudiana extract) and two novel rheology modifiers (starch acetate/
adipate and Caesalpinia spinosa or tara gum). The sustainability of these ingredients is discussed around
four pillars, including renewable carbon and biodegradability, carbon emission reduction, eco-designed/
clean processes, and sustainable sourcing. The performance of these ingredients in beauty applications is
demonstrated using relevant evaluation methods.
INTRODUCTION
Formulating new beauty products has never been more challenging. Stringent regulatory
requirements, increasing customer expectations for performance, and a growing trend
toward sustainable products make designing new molecules difficult. While a focus on
performance and efficacy is critical for success, there is an increased obligation to responsibly
develop and deploy ingredients with low environmental impact. From conception to the
generation of raw materials, their stepwise conversion into efficacious products and their
eventual post-use disposal impact the overall environmental footprint. Raw material
sustainability has been a primary focus when discussing product development. Sustainable
solutions can be achieved based on four pillars:
• Renewable carbon and biodegradability.
• Carbon emission reduction (i.e., designing ingredients with lower carbon footprint).
• Eco-designed/clean processes such as biotechnology or green chemistry.
• Sustainable sourcing (i.e., making sure nature-based feedstocks do not negatively impact
the environment or people).

448 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
This article highlights five new commercially available technologies that meet sustainable
solution requirements while also providing exceptional performance. These technologies
include three novel active ingredients such as the Zenerity™ (Lubrizol, Brecksville, OH,
USA) biotech ingredients (INCI: glycerin, water (aqua), and bacillus ferment THW
biotech ingredient), Uplevity™ (Lipotec USA, Lewisville, TX, USA) lift peptide (INCI:
tetrapeptide-1), and Stevisse™ advanced botanical ingredients (INCI: glycerin, water
(aqua), Stevia rebaudiana leaf/stem extract), as well as two novel rheology modifiers in the
Carbopol® Fusion (Lubrizol, Brecksville, OH, USA) S-20 polymer (INCI: starch acetate/
adipate (SAA) and citric acid)and Sensomer™ (Lubrizol, Brecksville, OH, USA) tara
polymer (INCI: Caesalpinia spinosa gum tara). The resulting sustainability and performance
of these products will be discussed first for the active ingredients and then for the rheology
modifiers.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
PREPARATION OF BOTANICAL EXTRACTS:
1. Subcritical water extract of stevia leaves was prepared using an accelerated solvent
extractor (AE350, Dionex, Sunnyvale, CA, USA) under the following general conditions.
Approximately 5 g of the botanical raw material (stevia leaves) were loaded on to a
100 mL stainless steel cell along with a layer of diatomaceous earth (10 g, ASE prep DE,
Dionex). The mixture was then placed in the extractor, filled with water, and heated to
temperatures in the range of 150o-180oC under high pressure (up to 1.38 MPa) for 15
minutes to maintain subcritical water conditions. The process was repeated three times.
The combined extract was subsequently mixed with glycerin to make a 60% glycerin
solution (weight basis).
2. A hot water extract was prepared by a steeping process using 5g of the botanical raw
material and 100 mL of water. The mixture was heated and mixed at 45°C for 4 hours.
The water extract was filtered and diluted with glycerin to make a 60% glycerin solution.
The aqueous glycerin extractions were produced similarly to the hot water process but
with a 60% glycerin aqueous solution at the exact same temperature of 45°C.
ORGANIZATION FOR ECONOMIC COOPERATION AND DEVELOPMENT (OECD) 301
BIODEGRADABILITY TEST
This test guideline describes six methods that permit screening chemicals for ready
biodegradability in an aerobic aqueous medium. These methods include: the dissolved
organic content (DOC) die-away, the CO
2 evolution (modified Sturm test), the MITI (I)
(Ministry of International Trade and Industry, Japan), the closed bottle, the modified
OECD screening, and the manometric respirometry. A solution or suspension of the well
determined/described test substance in a mineral medium is inoculated and incubated
under aerobic conditions in the dark or in diffuse light. Running blanks with inoculum
but without a test substance in parallel helps to determine the endogenous activity of the
inoculum. A reference compound (aniline, sodium acetate, or sodium benzoate) is also run
in parallel to check the operation of the procedures. Normally, the test lasts for 28 days. At
least two flasks or vessels containing the test substance (plus the inoculum) and at least two
flasks or vessels containing only the inoculum should be used single vessels are sufficient

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443 SUSTAINABLE HAIR
Further to this point, single fiber fatigue testing on hair samples procured from a high
number of panelists has suggested sizable differences in measured properties. On the one
hand, very different breakage properties are seen among individuals, but also notable
differences in the measured Young’s modulus are obtained.44 As discussed earlier, the
mechanical properties of hair are attributed to the internal cortex structure so, a difference
in the measured modulus implies different structural makeup.
Reaching conclusions in all the previous studies is complicated by the potential for an
overriding effect of hair damage. As already highlighted, various insults can impact swelling
rates, mechanical properties, and a propensity for breakage so, when testing panelists’ hair,
it is never certain whether the natural innate properties are being evaluated or the state
that exists after any degree of various insults. In the case of the mentioned breakage study,
a degree of confidence is attained as the result of the very high number of panelists tested
(over 100). Clear trends were found while scatter and outliers were likely consequences of
hair that had experienced progressively higher degrees of damage.
The concept of differing internal structure is not unheard of in the hair world. Studies
on wool in the 1950s led to the postulation of different types of cortical cells and their
subsequent arrangement within fibers.45,46 Specifically, especially kinky Marino wool was
found to have a bilateral symmetry involving so-called ortho and para cortical cells. This
same conformation has subsequently been observed in very curly African hair,47 while
an annular arrangement appears to be present in straight hair.48 Further, the existence of
additional cell types has also been proposed.49,50
As highlighted, these considerations have no relevance to the activity of conventional daily-
use products, which are overwhelmingly the dominant players in the hair-care market.
Therefore, despite being an intriguing curiosity, there does not appear to be industry
drive for further study of what seems to be a major question involving hair’s fundamental
structure.
CONCLUSION
After creating such a wonderous material, Mother Nature could never have conceived of all
the toils that would be inflicted on hair in the name of beauty. For the most part, consumers
appear generally aware of the harmful effects of various harsh habits and practices yet, the
end outcomes often outweigh and justify the means. At the same time, consumers have
inexplicably and erroneously decided that passive ingredients (such as sulfated surfactants,
silicones, etc.) are villains to be avoided at all costs. The gaps between consumer beliefs
and the fundamental underlying science have steadily widened since the advent of social
media, blogging, and influencers. Perhaps the sometimes-seen proposition of a product/
formulation being “chemical free” is the most egregious example. When this author joined
the industry over 30 years ago, it was mostly self-police, with big companies challenging
each other if it was felt that propositions and claims were excessive and/or misleading.
In today’s world of e-commerce, which has led to a proliferation of small players, this
has become an almost impossible task. Ironically, it now feels that our industry is being
patrolled by lawyers who seek class action lawsuits against those believed to be deceiving
consumers (often in a manner that feels like cosmetic ambulance chasing).
The moment hair egresses out onto the scalp, it begins to be exposed to a myriad of
potential insults. Some of these are relatively mild, while others are considerably more

444 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
severe. Moreover, this continues over the lifespan of the fibers, which is generally around
three to six years. Hair grows at a rate of approximately 0.5 in per month, and the tips of
shoulder-length hair have accumulated the sum of two years’ worth of such insults. Not
surprisingly, despite its tough, strong makeup, the hair structure progressively degrades
with commensurate alteration in its physical properties. Most often these changes are
detrimental to the wearer. Tactile properties worsen, the hair becomes more unruly, and a
higher propensity for breakage may be encountered. This article has attempted to describe
the underlying technical reasons for these occurrences although, as explained, our industry
fixates on consumer language which causes considerable confusion. For example, as shown,
despite consumer beliefs, hair does not physically “dry out” and therefore does not need to
be “moisturized.” Indeed, the science shows that hair has decidedly poorer properties when
its water content is raised.
Hair-care products play an important role in the well-being and maintenance of hair.
Shampoos remove sebum, exogenous soils, and product residues that would otherwise
build up and leave hair feeling greasy, dull, and weighed down. Conditioners coat the hair
with a thin, aesthetically pleasing lubricating layer that improves feel, aids with grooming,
helps reduce abrasion, and can lessen fiber breakage. While these are all highly desirable
benefits (which most consumers likely could not do without), in the marketing world there
is always the need for a new story. Accordingly, messages become increasingly grander:
attractive sounding but nonfunctional ingredients are touted, false promises are made,
the fundamental science takes a backseat, and the credibility of our industry suffers. It is
hoped that this article helps to emphasize and reinforce the differences between science and
marketing as well as the differences between scientific language and consumer language.
REFERENCES
(1) ReferencesFortune business insights. Hair Care Market Size, Share &Industry Analysis 2024, August 5.
https://www.fortunebusinessinsights.com/hair-care-market-102555.
(2) Evans TA. How damaged is your hair? – Part 1: Surface damage. Cosmet Toiletries. April 2017 132(4):38–48.
(3) Evans TA. How damaged is your hair? – Part 2: Internal damage. Cosmet Toiletries. June 2017 132(6):36–45.
(4) Evans TA. How damaged is your hair? – Part 3: Better defining the problem. Cosmet Toiletries. July/
August 2017 132(7):58–67.
(5) Robbins CR, Chapter 1. Morphological and macromolecular structure. In: Chemical and Physical Behaviors
of Human Hair. 5th ed. Springer-Verlag.
(6) Swift JA. The structure and chemistry of human hair. In: Practical Modern Hair Science, T. Evans and R.R.
Wickett. Allured Publishing 2012.
(7) Franbourg A, Leroy F. Hair structure, function and physiochemical properties. In: The Science of Hair
Care, C. Bouillon and J. Wilkinson. CRC Press 2005.
(8) Marshall RC, Orwin DFG, Gillespie JM. Structure and biochemistry of mammalian hard keratin.
Electron Microsc Rev. 1991 4(1):47–83. doi:10.1016/0892-0354(91)90016-6
(9) Evans TA. A Review of permanent waving and perm chemistry. J Cosmet Sci. 2021 72(1):99–133.
(10) Robbins CR, Kelly CK. Amino acid analysis of cosmetically altered hair. J Cosmet Sci. 1969 20:555–564.
(11) Hoting E, Zimmermann M, Hilterhaus-Bong S, Schwarzkopf H. Photochemical alterations in human
hair. I. Artificial irradiation and investigations of hair proteins. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1995 46(2):85–99.
(12) White HJ, Stam PB. An experimental and theoretical study of the adsorption and swelling isotherms of
human hair in water vapor. Tex. Res. J. 1949 19:136–151.

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