355 Sensitive skin panels
LAST with functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) may allow a more objective
assessment 19 however, this approach is not feasible for routine use. In any case, a discrepancy
exists between the lactic acid response and the self-perception of sensitive skin.20 Therefore,
it is recommended to combine LAST with a concurrent questionnaire.16
CAPSAICIN TEST
The capsaicin test was more recently introduced to assess the hyperactivation of Transient
Receptor Potential Vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) in individuals with sensitive skin.21 TRPV1 is
a cationic ion channel activated by heat and capsaicin. In this test, a 0.075% capsaicin
emulsion is applied, and similar to the LAST, it relies on a subjective individual pain scale
for evaluation.
Interestingly, the Capsaicin Detection Threshold (CDT) test combines the specific reactivity
of sensitive skin to capsaicin, the simplicity of the LAST application, and a threshold
detection method. Unlike traditional methods, it no longer quantifies the intensity of the
response but instead determines detection thresholds for topically applied capsaicin. The
test uses five capsaicin concentrations in a 10% ethanol aqueous solution: (3.16 × 10−5%,
1 × 10−4%, 3.16 × 10−4%, 1 × 10−3%, 3.16 × 10−3%).21 The method used to attain the
detection threshold consists of applying increasing concentrations of capsaicin onto the
nasolabial folds (with a 3-minute interval between each application). The vehicle is
simultaneously applied following a split-face, single-blind plan. The test is stopped as soon
as the subject reports a specific sensation on the capsaicin side.
NEUROPHYSIOLOGICAL TECHNIQUES
These methods are used for studying the impairment of somatosensory function in
neurologic diseases. They are based on different stimuli: thermal (cold, warm), electrical,
or mechanical. Their use is more restricted to specialized centers, and they are rarely used
to assess sensitive skin.
CURRENT PERCEPTION THRESHOLD (CPT)
Sensitivity evaluations using the Current Perception Threshold (CPT) method distinguish
between types of nerve fibers based on their activation by three different current frequencies,
facilitated by the Neurometer® CPT® device (Neurotron Inc., Aurora, CO, USA).
Transcutaneous electrical stimuli are delivered through two electrodes. The frequencies
produced by the Neurometer® CPT® selectively stimulate three subsets of nerve fibers:
2000 Hz: Activates large myelinated fibers, responsible for touch and pressure
sensation.
250 Hz: Activates small myelinated fibers, associated with temperature, pressure,
fast pain, and prickling itch sensations.
5 Hz: Activates unmyelinated C-fibers, involved in temperature perception, slow pain,
and burning itch sensations.
Ham et al. analyzed the relationship between the frequency of response at each sensation
(stinging, burning, and itching) during a lactic acid sting test and the CPT value of each
356 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
frequency.22 To reconfirm this relationship, they analyzed differences of the CPT value
(5 Hz) between the itch responder and non-itch responder groups. There was a significant
correlation between itch sensation and CPT values of 5 Hz. The itch responder group
showed significantly lower sensory perception value of 5 Hz than the non-itch responder
group.
QUANTITATIVE SENSORY TESTING (QST)
QST is a psycho-physical validated method that uses different stimuli of increasing intensity
to measure somato-sensory perception.23 This method allows evaluation of the participation
of small and large nerve fibers. Currently, QST is used mainly in neuropathic pain or
neuropathic pruritus to look for small-fiber neuropathies.24 The detection thresholds of heat
pain (HPT), vibration pain (VDT), and cold pain (CDT) can be tested using a Computer-
Assisted Sensory Examination (CASE) system IV (WR Medical Electronics Co., Maplewood,
MN, USA).25 A thermal electrode of 10 cm² is placed on the dorsum of the dominant hand
of the subject or elsewhere. The CASE IV software program automatically calculates the
pain ratings of heat pain (HP) HP 0.5, HP 5.0 and HP 5-0.5 with a quadratic regression
equation. HP 0.5 is defined as the midpoint between the smallest stimulus that created
pain and the largest no-painful stimulus. HP 5.0 corresponded to the stimulus that created
a rating of 5 from the subject. HP 5-0.5 was the difference between these two values. In
subjects with sensitive skin, the HPT is significantly lower (14.5 +/-2.8) than in the controls
(17.8 +/− 2.5) (p 0.001).26 Intermediate pain (HPT 5.0) is also significantly decreased.
CUTANEOUS THERMAL SENSATION
This psychophysical test is only based on the assessment of peripheral sensitivity to thermal
stimuli. This test involved the use of a thermal testing instrument—for example, the
Thermal Sensory Analyser (TSA 2001) manufactured by Medoc, Ramat Yishai, Israel—to
assess the thermal functional components of cutaneous nerve endings.16,27 The thermode
delivers thermal stimuli capable of heating or cooling the skin.
SKIN BIOPSIES
Histological analysis of skin biopsies in sensitive skin areas shows a decrease of intra-
epidermal nerve density, like in small-fiber neuropathies.28 However, it is difficult to use
this invasive technique routinely.
PARALLEL TESTS
The aim of many other tests is to evaluate skin properties which can be modified in
subjects with sensitive skin, but are not directly related to sensitive skin: trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL), cutaneous pH, epidermal thickness (measured by ultrasonography,
optical microscopy, or confocal microscopy), skin penetrability (assessed with UV light),
molecular composition of stratum corneum (using confocal Raman microspectroscopy), or
others.12, 29–32 All these tests are commonly used in studies on sensitive skin, but they never
measure skin hypersensitivity.
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Volume 75 No 5 - Sustainability Special Issue - Open Access resources

Extracted Text (may have errors)

355 Sensitive skin panels
LAST with functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) may allow a more objective
assessment 19 however, this approach is not feasible for routine use. In any case, a discrepancy
exists between the lactic acid response and the self-perception of sensitive skin.20 Therefore,
it is recommended to combine LAST with a concurrent questionnaire.16
CAPSAICIN TEST
The capsaicin test was more recently introduced to assess the hyperactivation of Transient
Receptor Potential Vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) in individuals with sensitive skin.21 TRPV1 is
a cationic ion channel activated by heat and capsaicin. In this test, a 0.075% capsaicin
emulsion is applied, and similar to the LAST, it relies on a subjective individual pain scale
for evaluation.
Interestingly, the Capsaicin Detection Threshold (CDT) test combines the specific reactivity
of sensitive skin to capsaicin, the simplicity of the LAST application, and a threshold
detection method. Unlike traditional methods, it no longer quantifies the intensity of the
response but instead determines detection thresholds for topically applied capsaicin. The
test uses five capsaicin concentrations in a 10% ethanol aqueous solution: (3.16 × 10−5%,
1 × 10−4%, 3.16 × 10−4%, 1 × 10−3%, 3.16 × 10−3%).21 The method used to attain the
detection threshold consists of applying increasing concentrations of capsaicin onto the
nasolabial folds (with a 3-minute interval between each application). The vehicle is
simultaneously applied following a split-face, single-blind plan. The test is stopped as soon
as the subject reports a specific sensation on the capsaicin side.
NEUROPHYSIOLOGICAL TECHNIQUES
These methods are used for studying the impairment of somatosensory function in
neurologic diseases. They are based on different stimuli: thermal (cold, warm), electrical,
or mechanical. Their use is more restricted to specialized centers, and they are rarely used
to assess sensitive skin.
CURRENT PERCEPTION THRESHOLD (CPT)
Sensitivity evaluations using the Current Perception Threshold (CPT) method distinguish
between types of nerve fibers based on their activation by three different current frequencies,
facilitated by the Neurometer® CPT® device (Neurotron Inc., Aurora, CO, USA).
Transcutaneous electrical stimuli are delivered through two electrodes. The frequencies
produced by the Neurometer® CPT® selectively stimulate three subsets of nerve fibers:
2000 Hz: Activates large myelinated fibers, responsible for touch and pressure
sensation.
250 Hz: Activates small myelinated fibers, associated with temperature, pressure,
fast pain, and prickling itch sensations.
5 Hz: Activates unmyelinated C-fibers, involved in temperature perception, slow pain,
and burning itch sensations.
Ham et al. analyzed the relationship between the frequency of response at each sensation
(stinging, burning, and itching) during a lactic acid sting test and the CPT value of each
356 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
frequency.22 To reconfirm this relationship, they analyzed differences of the CPT value
(5 Hz) between the itch responder and non-itch responder groups. There was a significant
correlation between itch sensation and CPT values of 5 Hz. The itch responder group
showed significantly lower sensory perception value of 5 Hz than the non-itch responder
group.
QUANTITATIVE SENSORY TESTING (QST)
QST is a psycho-physical validated method that uses different stimuli of increasing intensity
to measure somato-sensory perception.23 This method allows evaluation of the participation
of small and large nerve fibers. Currently, QST is used mainly in neuropathic pain or
neuropathic pruritus to look for small-fiber neuropathies.24 The detection thresholds of heat
pain (HPT), vibration pain (VDT), and cold pain (CDT) can be tested using a Computer-
Assisted Sensory Examination (CASE) system IV (WR Medical Electronics Co., Maplewood,
MN, USA).25 A thermal electrode of 10 cm² is placed on the dorsum of the dominant hand
of the subject or elsewhere. The CASE IV software program automatically calculates the
pain ratings of heat pain (HP) HP 0.5, HP 5.0 and HP 5-0.5 with a quadratic regression
equation. HP 0.5 is defined as the midpoint between the smallest stimulus that created
pain and the largest no-painful stimulus. HP 5.0 corresponded to the stimulus that created
a rating of 5 from the subject. HP 5-0.5 was the difference between these two values. In
subjects with sensitive skin, the HPT is significantly lower (14.5 +/-2.8) than in the controls
(17.8 +/− 2.5) (p 0.001).26 Intermediate pain (HPT 5.0) is also significantly decreased.
CUTANEOUS THERMAL SENSATION
This psychophysical test is only based on the assessment of peripheral sensitivity to thermal
stimuli. This test involved the use of a thermal testing instrument—for example, the
Thermal Sensory Analyser (TSA 2001) manufactured by Medoc, Ramat Yishai, Israel—to
assess the thermal functional components of cutaneous nerve endings.16,27 The thermode
delivers thermal stimuli capable of heating or cooling the skin.
SKIN BIOPSIES
Histological analysis of skin biopsies in sensitive skin areas shows a decrease of intra-
epidermal nerve density, like in small-fiber neuropathies.28 However, it is difficult to use
this invasive technique routinely.
PARALLEL TESTS
The aim of many other tests is to evaluate skin properties which can be modified in
subjects with sensitive skin, but are not directly related to sensitive skin: trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL), cutaneous pH, epidermal thickness (measured by ultrasonography,
optical microscopy, or confocal microscopy), skin penetrability (assessed with UV light),
molecular composition of stratum corneum (using confocal Raman microspectroscopy), or
others.12, 29–32 All these tests are commonly used in studies on sensitive skin, but they never
measure skin hypersensitivity.

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