521 Evolution and Challenges of Sustainability
(127) Legoux F, Bellet D, Daviaud C, et al. Microbial metabolites control the thymic development of mucosal-
associated invariant T cells. Science. 2019 366(6464):494-499. doi:10.1126/science.aaw2719
(128) Kang D, Shi B, Erfe MC, Craft N, Li H. Vitamin B12 modulates the transcriptome of the skin microbiota
in acne pathogenesis. Sci Transl Med. 2015 7(293):293ra103. doi:10.1126/scitranslmed.aab2009
(129) Johnson T, Kang D, Barnard E, Li H. Strain-level differences in porphyrin production and regulation
in Propionibacterium acnes elucidate disease associations. mSphere. 2016 1(1):00023-00015. doi:10.1128/
mSphere.00023-15
(130) Barnard E, Johnson T, Ngo T, et al. Porphyrin production and regulation in cutaneous Propionibacteria.
mSphere. 2020 5(1):1-10. doi:10.1128/mSphere.00793-19
(131) Kong HH, Oh J, Deming C, et al. Temporal shifts in the skin microbiome associated with disease flares and
treatment in children with atopic dermatitis. Genome Res. 2012 22(5):850-859. doi:10.1101/gr.131029.111
(132) Orth DS. Microbiological considerations in cosmetic formula development and evaluation. II. The
dynamic role of microorganisms on the skin and in aqueous test systems, and the role of the acid mantle
in the etiology of dry skin. Cosmet Toiletr. 1989 104(5):51-58, 60,62,64.
(133) Bolognia Jl, Jorizzo JJ, Schaffer JV, et al. Dermatology. 3rd ed. Elsevier Saunders 2012:539-544.
(134) Niyonsaba F, Suzuki A, Ushio H, Nagaoka I, Ogawa H, Okumura K. The human antimicrobial
peptide dermcidin activates normal human keratinocytes. Br J Dermatol. 2009 160(2):243-249.
doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2008.08925.x
(135) Prescott SL, Larcombe D-L, Logan AC, et al. The skin microbiome: impact of modern environments on
skin ecology, barrier integrity, and systemic immune programming. World Allergy Organ J. 2017 10(1):29.
doi:10.1186/s40413-017-0160-5
(136) Levy G, Solt I. The human microbiome and gender medicine. Gend Genome. 2018 2(4):123-127.
doi:10.1177/2470289718811764
(137) Li Z, Bai X, Peng T, et al. New insights into the skin microbial communities and skin aging. Front
Microbiol. 2020 11:565549. doi:10.3389/fmicb.2020.565549
(138) Shibagaki N, Suda W, Clavaud C, et al. Aging-related changes in the diversity of women’s skin
microbiomes associated with oral bacteria. Sci Rep. 2017 7(1):10567. doi:10.1038/s41598-017-10834-9
(139) Zouboulis CC, Makrantonaki E. Clinical aspects and molecular diagnostics of skin aging. Clin Dermatol.
2011 29(1):3-14. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2010.07.001
(140) Wilkinson HN, Hardman MJ. A role for estrogen in skin ageing and dermal biomechanics. Mech Ageing
Dev. 2021 197:111513. doi:10.1016/j.mad.2021.111513
(141) Rabe JH, Mamelak AJ, McElgunn PJS, Morison WL, Sauder DN. Photoaging: mechanisms and repair.
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006 55(1):1-19. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2005.05.010
(142) Zettersten EM, Ghadially R, Feingold KR, Crumrine D, Elias PM. Optimal ratios of topical stratum
corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1997 37(3 Pt
1):403-408. doi:10.1016/s0190-9622(97)70140-3
(143) Howard B, Bascom CC, Hu P, et al. Aging-associated changes in the adult human skin microbiome and
the host factors that affect skin microbiome composition. J Invest Dermatol. 2022 142(7):1934-1946.e21.
doi:10.1016/j.jid.2021.11.029
(144) Kim H-J, Oh HN, Park T, et al. Aged related human skin microbiome and mycobiome in Korean
women. Sci Rep. 2022 12(1):2351. doi:10.1038/s41598-022-06189-5
(145) Thevaranjan N, Puchta A, Schulz C, et al. Age-associated microbial dysbiosis promotes intestinal
permeability, systemic inflammation, and macrophage dysfunction. Cell Host Microbe. 2017 21(4):455-
466.e4. doi:10.1016/j.chom.2017.03.002
(146) Jugé R, Rouaud-Tinguely P, Breugnot J, et al. Shift in skin microbiota of Western European women
across aging. J Appl Microbiol. 2018 125(3):907-916. doi:10.1111/jam.13929
(147) Bouslimani A, da Silva R, Kosciolek T, et al. The impact of skin care products on skin chemistry and
microbiome dynamics. BMC Biol. 2019 17(1):47. doi:10.1186/s12915-019-0660-6
522 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(148) Callewaert C, Hutapea P, Van de Wiele T, Boon N. Deodorants and antiperspirants affect the axillary
bacterial community. Arch Dermatol Res. 2014 306(8):701-710. doi:10.1007/s00403-014-1487-1
(149) Tu C-X, Zhang R-X, Zhang X-J, Huang T. Exogenous N-acetylglucosamine increases hyaluronan
production in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Arch Dermatol Res. 2009 301(7):549-551. doi:10.1007/
s00403-009-0932-z
(150) Moskovicz V, Gross A, Mizrahi B. Extrinsic factors shaping the skin microbiome. Microorganisms.
2020 8(7):1023. doi:10.3390/microorganisms8071023
(151) Lee HJ, Jeong SE, Lee S, Kim S, Han H, Jeon CO. Effects of cosmetics on the skin microbiome of facial
cheeks with different hydration levels. MicrobiologyOpen. 2018 7(2):e00557. doi:10.1002/mbo3.557
(152) Murillo N, Raoult D. Skin microbiota: overview and role in the skin diseases acne vulgaris and rosacea.
Future Microbiol. 2013 8(2):209-222. doi:10.2217/fmb.12.141
(153) Ramirez-Arcos S, Goldman M. Skin disinfection methods: prospective evaluation and postimplementation
results. Transfusion. 2010 50(1):59-64. doi:10.1111/j.1537-2995.2009.02434.x
(154) Heckmann N, Sivasundaram L, Heidari KS, et al. Propionibacterium acnes persists despite various skin
preparation techniques. Arthroscopy. 2018 34(6):1786-1789. doi:10.1016/j.arthro.2018.01.019
(155) Tuladhar E, Hazeleger WC, Koopmans M, Zwietering MH, Duizer E, Beumer RR. Reducing viral
contamination from finger pads: handwashing is more effective than alcohol-based hand disinfectants. J
Hosp Infect. 2015 90(3):226-234. doi:10.1016/j.jhin.2015.02.019
(156) Kampf G, Todt D, Pfaender S, Steinmann E. Persistence of coronaviruses on inanimate surfaces and their
inactivation with biocidal agents. J Hosp Infect. 2020 104(3):246-251. doi:10.1016/j.jhin.2020.01.022
(157) Orth DS. Probiotics – the new ambrosia, insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media.
2010:241-261.
(158) Bowe WP, Logan AC. Acne vulgaris, probiotics and the gut-brain-skin axis – back to the future? Gut
Pathog. 2011 3(1):1. doi:10.1186/1757-4749-3-1
(159) Reid G, Jass J, Sebulsky MT, McCormick JK. Potential uses of probiotics in clinical practice. Clin
Microbiol Rev. 2003 16(4):658-672. doi:10.1128/CMR.16.4.658-672.2003
(160) Sullivan M, Schnittger SF, Mammone T, Goyarts E. Skin Treatment Method with Lactobacillus Extract.
WO2005/091933. Assigned to E-L Management Corporation October 6, 2006.
(161) Spragge F, Bakkeren E, Jahn MT, et al. Microbiome diversity protects against pathogens by nutrient
blocking. Science. 2023 382(6676):eadj3502. doi:10.1126/science.adj3502
(162) Boxberger M, Cenizo V, Cassir N, La Scola B. Challenges in exploring and manipulating the human skin
microbiome. Microbiome. 2021 9(1):125. doi:10.1186/s40168-021-01062-5
(163) Orth DS. Mistakes to avoid in product development and testing, insights into cosmetic microbiology.
Allured Bus Media. 2010:285-310.
(164) Orth DS, Delgadillo KS, Dumatol C. Maximum allowable D-values for gram-negative bacteria:
determining killing rates required in aqueous cosmetics. Cosmet Toiletr. 1998 113(8):53-56,58,59.
(165) Orth DS. Cosmetic microbiology in the years ahead, Insights into Cosmetic Microbiology. Allured Bus
Media. 2010:311-327.
(166) McMurry LM, Oethinger M, Levy SB. Triclosan targets lipid synthesis. Nature. 1998 394(6693):531-532.
doi:10.1038/28970
(167) Lambert LA, Abshire K, Blankenhorn D, Slonczewski JL. Proteins induced in Escherichia coli by
benzoic acid. J Bacteriol. 1997 179(23):7595-7599. doi:10.1128/jb.179.23.7595-7599.1997
(168) Moken MC, McMurry LM, Levy SB. Selection of multiple-antibiotic-resistant (Mar) mutants of
Escherichia coli by using the disinfectant pine oil: roles of the mar and acrAB loci. Antimicrob Agents
Chemother. 1997 41(12):2770-2772. doi:10.1128/AAC.41.12.2770
(169) Cohen SP, Levy SB, Foulds J, Rosner JL. Salicylate induction of antibiotic resistance in Escherichia
coli: activation of the mar operon and a mar-independent pathway. J Bacteriol. 1993 175(24):7856-7862.
doi:10.1128/jb.175.24.7856-7862.1993
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521 Evolution and Challenges of Sustainability
(127) Legoux F, Bellet D, Daviaud C, et al. Microbial metabolites control the thymic development of mucosal-
associated invariant T cells. Science. 2019 366(6464):494-499. doi:10.1126/science.aaw2719
(128) Kang D, Shi B, Erfe MC, Craft N, Li H. Vitamin B12 modulates the transcriptome of the skin microbiota
in acne pathogenesis. Sci Transl Med. 2015 7(293):293ra103. doi:10.1126/scitranslmed.aab2009
(129) Johnson T, Kang D, Barnard E, Li H. Strain-level differences in porphyrin production and regulation
in Propionibacterium acnes elucidate disease associations. mSphere. 2016 1(1):00023-00015. doi:10.1128/
mSphere.00023-15
(130) Barnard E, Johnson T, Ngo T, et al. Porphyrin production and regulation in cutaneous Propionibacteria.
mSphere. 2020 5(1):1-10. doi:10.1128/mSphere.00793-19
(131) Kong HH, Oh J, Deming C, et al. Temporal shifts in the skin microbiome associated with disease flares and
treatment in children with atopic dermatitis. Genome Res. 2012 22(5):850-859. doi:10.1101/gr.131029.111
(132) Orth DS. Microbiological considerations in cosmetic formula development and evaluation. II. The
dynamic role of microorganisms on the skin and in aqueous test systems, and the role of the acid mantle
in the etiology of dry skin. Cosmet Toiletr. 1989 104(5):51-58, 60,62,64.
(133) Bolognia Jl, Jorizzo JJ, Schaffer JV, et al. Dermatology. 3rd ed. Elsevier Saunders 2012:539-544.
(134) Niyonsaba F, Suzuki A, Ushio H, Nagaoka I, Ogawa H, Okumura K. The human antimicrobial
peptide dermcidin activates normal human keratinocytes. Br J Dermatol. 2009 160(2):243-249.
doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2008.08925.x
(135) Prescott SL, Larcombe D-L, Logan AC, et al. The skin microbiome: impact of modern environments on
skin ecology, barrier integrity, and systemic immune programming. World Allergy Organ J. 2017 10(1):29.
doi:10.1186/s40413-017-0160-5
(136) Levy G, Solt I. The human microbiome and gender medicine. Gend Genome. 2018 2(4):123-127.
doi:10.1177/2470289718811764
(137) Li Z, Bai X, Peng T, et al. New insights into the skin microbial communities and skin aging. Front
Microbiol. 2020 11:565549. doi:10.3389/fmicb.2020.565549
(138) Shibagaki N, Suda W, Clavaud C, et al. Aging-related changes in the diversity of women’s skin
microbiomes associated with oral bacteria. Sci Rep. 2017 7(1):10567. doi:10.1038/s41598-017-10834-9
(139) Zouboulis CC, Makrantonaki E. Clinical aspects and molecular diagnostics of skin aging. Clin Dermatol.
2011 29(1):3-14. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2010.07.001
(140) Wilkinson HN, Hardman MJ. A role for estrogen in skin ageing and dermal biomechanics. Mech Ageing
Dev. 2021 197:111513. doi:10.1016/j.mad.2021.111513
(141) Rabe JH, Mamelak AJ, McElgunn PJS, Morison WL, Sauder DN. Photoaging: mechanisms and repair.
J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006 55(1):1-19. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2005.05.010
(142) Zettersten EM, Ghadially R, Feingold KR, Crumrine D, Elias PM. Optimal ratios of topical stratum
corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1997 37(3 Pt
1):403-408. doi:10.1016/s0190-9622(97)70140-3
(143) Howard B, Bascom CC, Hu P, et al. Aging-associated changes in the adult human skin microbiome and
the host factors that affect skin microbiome composition. J Invest Dermatol. 2022 142(7):1934-1946.e21.
doi:10.1016/j.jid.2021.11.029
(144) Kim H-J, Oh HN, Park T, et al. Aged related human skin microbiome and mycobiome in Korean
women. Sci Rep. 2022 12(1):2351. doi:10.1038/s41598-022-06189-5
(145) Thevaranjan N, Puchta A, Schulz C, et al. Age-associated microbial dysbiosis promotes intestinal
permeability, systemic inflammation, and macrophage dysfunction. Cell Host Microbe. 2017 21(4):455-
466.e4. doi:10.1016/j.chom.2017.03.002
(146) Jugé R, Rouaud-Tinguely P, Breugnot J, et al. Shift in skin microbiota of Western European women
across aging. J Appl Microbiol. 2018 125(3):907-916. doi:10.1111/jam.13929
(147) Bouslimani A, da Silva R, Kosciolek T, et al. The impact of skin care products on skin chemistry and
microbiome dynamics. BMC Biol. 2019 17(1):47. doi:10.1186/s12915-019-0660-6
522 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(148) Callewaert C, Hutapea P, Van de Wiele T, Boon N. Deodorants and antiperspirants affect the axillary
bacterial community. Arch Dermatol Res. 2014 306(8):701-710. doi:10.1007/s00403-014-1487-1
(149) Tu C-X, Zhang R-X, Zhang X-J, Huang T. Exogenous N-acetylglucosamine increases hyaluronan
production in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Arch Dermatol Res. 2009 301(7):549-551. doi:10.1007/
s00403-009-0932-z
(150) Moskovicz V, Gross A, Mizrahi B. Extrinsic factors shaping the skin microbiome. Microorganisms.
2020 8(7):1023. doi:10.3390/microorganisms8071023
(151) Lee HJ, Jeong SE, Lee S, Kim S, Han H, Jeon CO. Effects of cosmetics on the skin microbiome of facial
cheeks with different hydration levels. MicrobiologyOpen. 2018 7(2):e00557. doi:10.1002/mbo3.557
(152) Murillo N, Raoult D. Skin microbiota: overview and role in the skin diseases acne vulgaris and rosacea.
Future Microbiol. 2013 8(2):209-222. doi:10.2217/fmb.12.141
(153) Ramirez-Arcos S, Goldman M. Skin disinfection methods: prospective evaluation and postimplementation
results. Transfusion. 2010 50(1):59-64. doi:10.1111/j.1537-2995.2009.02434.x
(154) Heckmann N, Sivasundaram L, Heidari KS, et al. Propionibacterium acnes persists despite various skin
preparation techniques. Arthroscopy. 2018 34(6):1786-1789. doi:10.1016/j.arthro.2018.01.019
(155) Tuladhar E, Hazeleger WC, Koopmans M, Zwietering MH, Duizer E, Beumer RR. Reducing viral
contamination from finger pads: handwashing is more effective than alcohol-based hand disinfectants. J
Hosp Infect. 2015 90(3):226-234. doi:10.1016/j.jhin.2015.02.019
(156) Kampf G, Todt D, Pfaender S, Steinmann E. Persistence of coronaviruses on inanimate surfaces and their
inactivation with biocidal agents. J Hosp Infect. 2020 104(3):246-251. doi:10.1016/j.jhin.2020.01.022
(157) Orth DS. Probiotics – the new ambrosia, insights into cosmetic microbiology. Allured Bus Media.
2010:241-261.
(158) Bowe WP, Logan AC. Acne vulgaris, probiotics and the gut-brain-skin axis – back to the future? Gut
Pathog. 2011 3(1):1. doi:10.1186/1757-4749-3-1
(159) Reid G, Jass J, Sebulsky MT, McCormick JK. Potential uses of probiotics in clinical practice. Clin
Microbiol Rev. 2003 16(4):658-672. doi:10.1128/CMR.16.4.658-672.2003
(160) Sullivan M, Schnittger SF, Mammone T, Goyarts E. Skin Treatment Method with Lactobacillus Extract.
WO2005/091933. Assigned to E-L Management Corporation October 6, 2006.
(161) Spragge F, Bakkeren E, Jahn MT, et al. Microbiome diversity protects against pathogens by nutrient
blocking. Science. 2023 382(6676):eadj3502. doi:10.1126/science.adj3502
(162) Boxberger M, Cenizo V, Cassir N, La Scola B. Challenges in exploring and manipulating the human skin
microbiome. Microbiome. 2021 9(1):125. doi:10.1186/s40168-021-01062-5
(163) Orth DS. Mistakes to avoid in product development and testing, insights into cosmetic microbiology.
Allured Bus Media. 2010:285-310.
(164) Orth DS, Delgadillo KS, Dumatol C. Maximum allowable D-values for gram-negative bacteria:
determining killing rates required in aqueous cosmetics. Cosmet Toiletr. 1998 113(8):53-56,58,59.
(165) Orth DS. Cosmetic microbiology in the years ahead, Insights into Cosmetic Microbiology. Allured Bus
Media. 2010:311-327.
(166) McMurry LM, Oethinger M, Levy SB. Triclosan targets lipid synthesis. Nature. 1998 394(6693):531-532.
doi:10.1038/28970
(167) Lambert LA, Abshire K, Blankenhorn D, Slonczewski JL. Proteins induced in Escherichia coli by
benzoic acid. J Bacteriol. 1997 179(23):7595-7599. doi:10.1128/jb.179.23.7595-7599.1997
(168) Moken MC, McMurry LM, Levy SB. Selection of multiple-antibiotic-resistant (Mar) mutants of
Escherichia coli by using the disinfectant pine oil: roles of the mar and acrAB loci. Antimicrob Agents
Chemother. 1997 41(12):2770-2772. doi:10.1128/AAC.41.12.2770
(169) Cohen SP, Levy SB, Foulds J, Rosner JL. Salicylate induction of antibiotic resistance in Escherichia
coli: activation of the mar operon and a mar-independent pathway. J Bacteriol. 1993 175(24):7856-7862.
doi:10.1128/jb.175.24.7856-7862.1993

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