362 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE HAIR AGING AND GRAYING Teca Gillespie The Procter & Gamble Company, Sharon Woods Technical Center, Cincinnati, OH Our Biology - The Effects of Time on Hair1 Hair aging and graying will have an effect on every single person. As we age our hair will actually change shape which will affect the texture and feel of the hair, but the true sign of time comes when gray hairs start to appear. Children have soft, smooth, and very healthy hair. The damage from years of styling and thermal damage has not taken its toll yet. However, research has also shown that when looking at the cross section of the hair, children have very even shape, diameter, ellipiticity, and surface outline. This smooth baby soft hair will eventually change in both texture and shape as hormones begin to set in. The teen age years and puberty has effects all over the body, and hair is no exception. The research on the cross section of teenage hair shows that they tend to have the largest diameter of hair and the largest amount of hair with an irregular cross sectional shape. The good news is such a wide distribution of diameters and ellipiticities is perceived as full hair with a lot of body. The geometry characteristics of women age 50+ become altogether different. It is at this time when most women will not only begin to notice gray or white hair appearing, but the texture of the hair begins to feel stiffer than before. The cross sections reveal more of an abundance of thick hair, with unsymmetrical outlines, and very broad distribution of ellipticities. Interestingly, the SEM pictures of elderly hair show a humpbacked surface of the hair. Finally, the research in seniors shows that the cross sections are all very small in diameter, an even distribution of ellipticities, and they have a smooth outline and texture. How to Improve the Signs of Time on Hair The most obvious sign of time on hair is graying, and the easiest way to combat this problem is to apply dye to remove the gray. However, this can be a tricky process as gray hair is unique due to its lack of pigmentation thus making it harder to dye. As we age the hair follicle actually stops producing melanin, or the color pigment. Since gray hair does not contain gray or white color, it's really colorless hair. The little color that we do see is the color of the hair keratin. This means that gray hair is like a blank white canvas. You have to apply more color to get the same effect as on hair that has melanin pigment. The image to the right shows the effect of the same dye that was applied to gray Effect of hair on dye hair and bleached hair. As you can see the gray hair takes up much less of the dye than the bleached hair. The color process itself has negative affects on the hair. Coloring the hair makes it feel unhealthy, especially in a wet state. Not only will it feel like straw when wet, but it becomes very brittle when dry. This leads to hair that lacks the healthy bounce and shine that it once had. The reason behind why the colored hair acts differently is colored hair is stripped of the natural f-layer which creates a hydrophobic surface to the hair. Traditional shampoos lack in recreating the f-layer back into the hair, but a breakthrough technology has been patented to help restore the signs of healthy hair. Gray Hair Bleached Hair The new technology poly DADMAC (Polydiallyldimethylammonium Chloride), transforms hair and delivers superior conditioning vs. traditional shampoos to help restore the hydrophobicity to the hair. The poly DAD MAC achieves this by enhancing the silicone deposition of the shampoo and the effectiveness of a conditioner for benefits that are realized when using both. The new technology creates more effective conditioning, which makes hair softer/silkier and makes it easier to comb than previous traditional shampoos. The pictures below show the increase silicone deposition from the shampoo when the poly DADMAC is incorporated into the formula. With traditional shampoos without poly DADMAC there is limited silicone deposition. By incorporating poly DADMAC into the shampoo formula there is an increase on silicone deposition on the hair. This increase silicone deposition actually improves the way light interacts with hair. It captures the light, resulting in better multi dimensional shine and revealing more vibrant color.

I ii Ul 4i 'J f 2008 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 363 Colored HlirDepo · 'on: Sliampoo with Silicone v1. Liquid Ciy1uh PolyDAOMAC ilic:OM -� Im•• field of view 100 mm x 100111m Quantative technical testing has shown that by incorporating the poly DADMAC into a shampoo fonnula the colored hair is not only easier to come due to the conditioning benefits from the silicone, but the hair will also be more hydrophobic. This increase in hydrophobicity allows it to act more like virgin hair. Combining the Understanding Biology will dictate what color and texture hair people have, but science can be incorporated to soften the effects of time. By combining the understanding of how the hair will change over time, with the fact that women will continue to color their hair.science will come in to allow the colored hair to be the healthiest it can be. By incorporating Poly DADMAC into shampoo women can transfonn their hair from brittle and straw-like to soft and shiny. Reference: A. Schwan-Jonczyk, C.-U. Schmidt-Hairs '07, 12-14.09.2007