364 Introduction JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE TREATMENTS FOR GRAYING HAIR: W"HAT W"ORKS AND W"HAT DOES NOT Perry Romanowski Alberto Culver, Inc., Melrose Park, IL While most hair care problems are suffered by small sub-segments of the human population, the problem of gray and graying hair is nearly universal. It is one of the most recognizable, early indicators of the aging process and one that directly conflicts with the desire to look young. Consumers are inundated with a wide range of products that promise to solve their gray hair problems. There are supplements containing vitamins, minerals, proteins and other organic substances that promise to reverse gray hair. There are natural ingredient-based remedies for staining hair. And there are cosmetic dyes that can hide the gray hairs. Additionally, raw material suppliers constantly provide data about new raw materials that are said to stimulate melanocyte production of melanin. The presentation will review past, current and future treatments of graying hair. It will examine the science, or lack there of, and discuss how well the various approaches work to camouflage gray or other wise improve the appearance and condition of aging hair. It will also review some of the latest findings and the possible treatments that could lead to permanent cures in the future. Problems of gray hair Recent research has shown that gray hair is susceptible to a wide variety of problems. In addition to the obvious color change, gray hair is also thinner, less dense, breaks more easily, grows more slowly, is more subject to UV damage and has lower levels of sebum production. The process of color change has been identified as both the depletion of melanocyte cells, their tendency to make make errors as they age and orienting themselves in the wrong part of the follicle. The typical solution is to use artificial coloring methods like permanent or semi-permanent colors, temporary colors like coloring mousse and coloring powders. These provide temporary relief but all are limited by the fact that they do not affect the color of the hair coming out of the follicle. Some research has raised the possibility of rejuvenating dormant melanocytes and permanently reverse the problem. [1] Physical changes in gray hair such as thinning, reduced hair density and the slowing of hair growth have been identified. Cosmetic solutions have primarily focused on depositing polymers or other compounds that can build up and make the hair appear thicker. Other proposed solutions involve ingesting herbal supplements that will help restart or refresh the follicles. These have been minimally successful and finding solutions remains the focus of research for many cosmetic chemists. The problem of hair breakage is likely the result of gray hair being more susceptible to UV damage due to the lack of protective pigments. Indeed tensile strength has been shown to be reduced as we age. Using sunscreens in hair care products is one suggested solution. While some data has been shown that a sunscreen can help, this solution has not adequately solved the problem. Conclusion The problems associated with gray hair are numerous and largely unsolved. This fact combined with the ubiquitousness of the condition provides an excellent opportunity for creators of new cosmetic technologies. [l] Van Neste D, Tobin DJ., Hair cycle and hair pigmentation: dynamic interactions and changes associated with aging. Micron. 2004 35(3): 193-200.

Introduction 2008 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR RAPID SCREENING PROTOCOL OF SUNLIGHT EXPOSURE TO DAMAGED HAIR Eric S. Abrutyn Kao Brands Company, Cincinnati, OH 45214 365 Consumers are unsatisfied with the loss of color shortly after they have colored their hair. They are looking for a more consistent hair color over a 4-8 week period. One of the potential causes of artificial color loss is exposure to sunlight due to the deleterious effect on hair and chemical degradation of the artificial coloring. Sunlight (mostly VIS, UVa and UVb exposure) has been identified as a cause for degradation of the cuticle and cortex that allows for more rapid leaching of artificial and natural color. This aging process needs to be controlled better so the cuticle and cortex are more intact and the color has a better chance to last longer. Over the past 15 years a lot has been published on the effect of sunlight on hair. Most of this work has been centered on the exposure to UVb and VIS portion of the spectrum. There is a growing consensus that UVa has as much contribution to photo-damage of hair as UVb. There is also a need to look at the affect of UVa and VIS on the artificial color within the hair. S. Ruetsch1 in 2000 talked about both UVa and UVb causing photo-degradation to proteins (keratin and melanin) and V. Signori in her review paper2 on the subject of photo-degradation cited various references3 contributing VIS exposure to a more pronounced photo-bleaching of hair than UV and UVa more effective in inducing photo-bleaching than UVb. Based on the chemistry of permanent (level II) hair color, there is a need to light stabilize color embedded in hair. It is clear that broad spectrum radiation from sunlight exposure causes a gradual degradation of hair leading to more porous hair and thus greater opportunity for leaching of hair color during shampooing. It is even more important to consider humidity as an accelerator due to its ability to provide a medium for mechanistic free-radical pathway oxidation. A key concern is that most hair care treatment products utilize only an UVb sunscreen for photo-degradation protection. As shown in a number of publications, hair damage requires not only UVb but also UVa photo­ protection, and even VIS photo-protection. So the right selection of UVa and UVb protection will not only control the sun exposed damage of hair, but will protect color loss due to UV degradation. There are a large number of UV absorbers available to the formulating chemist. Which one to chose and how do you screen their potential to prevent damage and color loss? The work reported here will deal with typical consumer exposure to sunlight on bleached and artificially colored hair. This paper will focus on the use of a rapid screening protocol to show that color loss and hair damage can be minimized better with a broad spectrum sunscreen. Methodology Untreated 2 gram/ 4" medium blonde hair tresses (International Hair Inc, USA- Caucasian Light Brown Hair) were bleached 2 times with persulfate/PW20 peroxide for 30 minutes at 35°C each treatment. The hair was shampooed with a stripping SLS/SLES/Betaine formulation and air dried. This hair was colored with L'Oreal RR07 at 4 pts of product (per mixing instructions) to 1.4 pts of hair for 25 minutes at 35°C and washed with a stripping shampoo and then air dried. Test tresses were treated with a 5% (actives basis) sunscreen solution (alcoholic, hydro-alcoholic or aqueous solution dependent on solubility of sunscreen) by uniformly spreading on both sides of tress and rubbing in to make sure all hair fibers are equally coated. The tresses were allowed to air dry and placed in direct sunlight for 5- 14 days (direct Midwest summer, June 15 - September 15, sunlight & varying humidity and no rain exposure). At each step in the process, the hair was visually graded and color measured by Chromometer (Konica Minolta Model # CR-300) using L *a*b* scale. Delta changes in L, E, C were recorded along with visual grading to determine effect of sunlight to tresses.