J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 337-338 Quly/August 2008) Abstracts SOFW Journal Wydanie Polskie, including Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Chemists, "Wiadomosci PTK" Vol. 1, No. 1, 2008* European principles of natural and organic cosmetics certification Maciej Siekierski Provitlll Polska Sp. z o.o. The trend towards ecological food and products increases gradually and enters the different spheres of our lives. The same trend is observed for care products. The growing need for natural and organic cosmetics in the last years follows by the growth of interest in this market on the side of such cosmetic products manufacturers, which haven't dealt with them up to now. Till now, ecological products were considered as niche products. The dynamic increase in the interest by consumers may change this view, however. The conscious consumer is interested in certified product only. The progressing process of standards harmonization will lead to the increase in consciousness and in the next stage to the increase in such products sells. The production of organic and natural cosmetics may become a good alternative for many smaller manufacturers. Looking at the interest in this subject by big and well-recognized brands, it could be expected that such products will appear on the mass market in the nearest future. Skin activity of lulein Pierfrancesco Morganti I D. Sousa Martins 2 G. Morganti 3 1 Professor of Applied Cosmetic Dermatology II University of Naples Visiting Professor of China Medical University Shenyang R&D Director Mavi Sud s.r.l. Aprilia (LT) Itaty2 Kemin Health Central & South America 3 Technical Director Mavi Sud s.r.l. Aprilia (LT) Italy The xanthophylls, lutein and carotenoids/zeaxanthin, belong to the family of carotenoids. Two are, in fact, the commonly accepted classes of these natural compounds (a) carotenes, composed of only carbon and hydrogen and (b) xanthophylls, composed of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. All the carotenoids have the identical backbone structure and their chemical and biochemical activities are related to their unique structure extended system of conjugated double bonds. Xanthophylls are fat-soluble pigments found profusely in dark green vegetables such as spinach, cabbage, broccoli, as well as in colourful vegetables and fruits such as com, oranges, peaches, mangoes and tangerines, and in egg yolk. Target group teenagers - cosmetic trends for the »Internet generation« Vera Maienschein IMPAG Import GmbH Current market studies show that today's teenagers have considerable financial means at their disposal. From very early on, they decide for themselves what they want to spend their money on. But it is not only their spending power that makes this target group interesting. Surveys reveal that the most important phase for brand imprinting already starts at adolescence and we all know it is easier to gain a new consumer than it is to »re-educate« a faithful consumer of the competition. Along-.ide fashion and mobile telephones, cosmetics is one of the »high interest« segments for teens and young adults. Beauty can be considered a hobby. On average, girls spend 35 minutes a day on grooming and styling, and use 14.1 cosmetic products. If you ask what the most important product group is, then the first answer will be face care. After that comes face cleansing, make-up (among girls only), deodorants, hairstyling, hair care and finally body care. If you want to select the right active ingredients for a successful product, you must be familiar with the typical skin problems that arise at this age and also -just as importantly - the special needs of this heterogeneous target group. Only then will you succeed in winning young adults over and securing a long-term trust in your product. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 337

338 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Can new biodegradable complexing agents replace tetrasodium EDT A to boost preservatives? Wolfgang Siegert Scholke & Mayr GmbH Special Additive International The continuing discussion of cosmetic preservatives has limited the number of accepted actives that can be practically used. As a result, a number of different methods and materials are being used to boost the activity of the remaining acceptable preservative. A cosmetic preservative based on a combination of the active ingredient phenoxyethanol and the skin care additive and deodorant active ethylhexylglycerin can be used in many applications. The additional boosting effect of tetrasodium EDT A on preservatives is well known, although the environmental fate of this material has been debated. To avoid the environmental discussion about complexing agents, readily biodegradable alternatives were tested under reproducible conditions.