340 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE ORGANIC COSMETIC STANDARDS: FACT OR FICTION? Timothy Kapsner Aveda Corporation This presentation will discuss the current status of organic certification standards in the U.S. and worldwide cosmetic industry. Companies such as Aveda are leading the way by using an increasing number of organic ingredients in their products, but the food industry organic standard does not translate well as a finished product standard for the cosmetic industry. As a result, false and misleading claims abound. European food certifiers, including Soil Association and Ecocert, have developed private cosmetic standards, and products certified to these standards are finding their way into the US market as well. A new U.S. trade group, OASIS (Organic and Sustainable Industry Standards), has created an organic cosmetic standard for the U.S. market. A comparison of the allowed chemistry shows that some of the existing standards may not be too far apart to hope for the possibility of harmonization. If and when an international harmonization takes place between Europe and the U.S., a single standard may emerge so consumers worldwide can expect organic cosmetic product claims to be made on a level playing field. While the organic food industry has not managed to create a single international standard, the cosmetic industry may be able to lead the way in this effort. Outline/Preprint of talk: 1. Organic ingredient usage in finished products a. Essential oils b. Organic oil (coconut, palm) derivatives 2. Use of the USDA food standard for cosmetics a. Aveda b. Erba c. Origins, others 3. Problems with borrowing a food standard a. Natural Products Expo vendor discussions b. Organic shampoo with AOS, deodorant with Steareth-20 c. Soap, glycerin, ethyl cocoate 4. Comparison of major organic cosmetic standards (Ecocert, NSF, OASIS) a. Launch of OASIS i. Type of organization ii. Goals iii. Standard b. Allowed chemistry comparison c. Organic content comparison d. Organic and "made with" vs. organic and "natural" 5. European harmonization a. Ecocert, Soil Association, BDIH, IAIB, Cosmebio i. Relationship between these organizations ii. Announcement of draft standard at IFOAM meeting in June b. NaTrue, IKW c. US involvement in harmonization (OASIS) i. OASIS ii. NOP vs. EC2092/9 l organic content (how to market organic cosmetic products internationally)

2008 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 341 A JOURNEY TO SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING John A. Delfausse Estee Lauder Companies There is a paradigm shift happening in the way we design new products for the environment. The concepts of Cradle to Cradle and Zero Waste have taken us from the familiar green concept of Reduce, Reuse, Recycle to one of Design, Reuse and Recover. William McDonough and Michael Braungart in there book Cradle to Cradle describe a design process that fits well with the design criteria and needs of cosmetic packaging. They argue that if we can design our packaging so that the materials and processes mirror nature, we can use renewable energy for all processes and bio (renewable) materials that at end of life will compost back to the soil as nutrients or technical (man-made) materials that will at the end of life be continuously recycled. The Zero Waste concept tells us that if you can't Reuse, Repair, Recycle or Compost a product at end of life you shouldn't make it. Neither of these concepts talks about reducing the materials or energy we use. And if we follow these guidelines, we should be able to maintain our strong image at the counter without affecting the environment. Our goal should be to design high quality packaging that meets marketing criteria for performance and cost while making our impact on the environment negligible. I call this a Win-Win-Win solution. Following the cradle to cradle vision as defined by the Sustainable Packaging Coalition's definition of sustainable packaging, companies can build a road map that will guide them.