346 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE ORGANIC, NATURAL, AND OTHER UGREEN" LABELING REGULATIONS Farah K. Ahmed Personal Care Products Council This presentation will provide a legal background and overview of the regulations surrounding "organic", "natural" and environmentally-friendly claims for cosmetic products. As companies work towards creating new and innovative products to meet the growing "green" market, it is critical that they understand the complex legal and regulatory joint-jurisdictional landscape. Insights will be given into the underyling principals of law that govern USDA, FDA, FTC, and EPA regulations applicable to claims such as "organic", "natural", and "recyclable" for cosmetic products. Additionally, this presentation will provide examples to help audience members understand how to navigate through compliance issues from a practical perspective. With a fundamental understanding of these regulations and the laws, companies can better maximize product development and avoid future compliance issues at the innovation stage.

2008 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 347 A NEW SKIN WHITEN ER (SODIUM PALMITOYP ROLINE AND NYMPHEA ALBA FLOWER EXT RAC T) CAPABL E OF MODULATI NG MELANOGENISJS-RELATED GENES AND TO PREVENT UV-INDUCED PIGMENTAT ION THROUGH ITS SOOTHING PROPERT IES Carla Perez1, S. Dumont', M. Puginier2, C. Stoltz', H. Geoffroy', C. Garcia', R. Roso', G. Trouve', Y. Duccini2 and B. Brancq' 1Seppic, Inc., 30 Two Bridges Road, Fairfield, NJ 07004, USA 2 Seppic, 127 chemin de la Poudrerie, BP228, 81105 Castres cedex, France 'Seppic, Tour Kupka C-7 bd Franck Kupka, 92039 Paris, La Defense cedex, France Email: sandy. dumont@airliquide.com Skin pigmentation disorders represent a very common problem in both Caucasian and Asian populations. Such anomalies can result either from hypopigmentation, such as in the vitiligo [I], or from hyperpigmentation, such as in photoaged and/or inflammatory skins [2-5]. Thus the pro­ inflammatory cytokines interleukin-la (IL-la) and endothelin-1 (ET-I), which are mainly produced by keratinocytes, can exert paracrine pro-melanogenic activities on melanocytes. However, despite such evidences of the existing link between inflammation and melanogenesis, there are only a few commercial cosmetic lightening molecules which claim a modulatory action on inflammatory skin [6]. On the contrary, most of them are often badly tolerated [7-9]. A lot of available lightening products are known to reduce tyrosinase activity by acting on the different upstream intracellular pathways [10]. Other agents can exert their lightening effect via additional or differential modes of action. For instance some of them are known to regulate expression or function of receptors such as P AR-2 [ 11 ], which is involved in the melanosomes transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes [12]. The microphtalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) also represents an interesting target for such molecules [13]. Thus, a product which would be able to act both directly by decreasing expression of key melanogenesis-related genes and indirectly by preventing inflammation-induced pigmentation would be of great interest. An active molecular association, composed of a Sodium palmitoylproline with a nymphea alba flower extract (SPPNF), is known to have soothing properties. The aim of the study was to determine whether such soothing properties could confer a melanogenesis-modulator activity to SPPNF. METHOD The production of intracellular and extracellular melanin and that ofDOPAchrome (i.e. the tyrosinase activity product) were measured with colorimetric methods (absorbance at 450 nm) on the B16-Fl melanoma cell line and on pigmented reconstructed epidermis (PRE), which were SPPNF or non-SPPNF treated or by reference molecules and cultured either in steady state conditions or under an inflammation state (i.e. after chronically perfomed UV irradiations). Reference molecules included both lightening reference molecules, i.e. kojic acid and arbutin, and a pro-pigmenting molecule, i.e. cx-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormone). Productions of IL-la and ET-1 were measured by ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay) on normal human keratinocyte cultures with SPPNF or non-SPPNF treated and with and without irradiation. Molecular experiments were performed on normal human melanocytes on SPPNF or non­ SPPNF treated, both by cDNA arrays and by quantitative-polymerase chain reaction (Q-PCR, to confirm some of the regulations observed. A clinical trial was performed on 33 voluntary type III or IV phototype Asian women, who presented pigmented disorders on the face (average age: 43±2 years old bi-quotidian topical application on the face over 84 days) and lightening efficacy was measured on normal and hyperpigmented skin with Chromameter® and Mexameter® measures as well as with a dermatologist scoring (statistical analyzes performed on the differences between DO and D84).