]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 333-336 CTuly/August 2008) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 30, No. 2, 2008* Review Article Review Article The first cosmetic treatise of history. A female point of Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a Review view P. Cavallo*, M. C. Proto*, C. Patruno_, A. Del Sorbo* and M. Bifulco* *Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Salemo, Via Ponte don Melillo, Fisciano (Salemo) and _Dermatologia Ambulatoriale, AA.SS.LL. NA1-NA5, 2 Regione Campania, Italy Correspondence: Maurizio Bifulco, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Salemo, Via Ponte don Melillo, 84084 Fisciano (Salemo), Italy. Tel.: +39 0899 64381 fax: +39 0899 69602 e-mail: maubiful@unisa.it The Schola Medica Salemitana was an early medieval medical school in the south Italian city of Salemo and the most important native source of medical knowledge in Europe at the time. The school achieved its splendour between the 10th and 13th centuries, during the final decades ofL ongobard kingdom. In the school, women were involved as both teachers and students for medical learning. Among these women, there was Trotula de Ruggiero (11th century), a teacher whose main interest was to alleviate suffering of women. She was the author of many medical works, the most notable being De Passionibus Mulierum Curandarum (about women's diseases), also known as Trotula Major. Another important work she wrote was De Omatu Mulierum (about women's cosmetics), also known as Trotula Minor, in which she teaches women to conserve and improve their beauty and treat skin diseases through a series of precepts, advices and natural remedies. She gives lessons about make-up, suggests the way to be unwrinkled, remove puffiness from face and eyes, remove unwanted hair from the body, lighten the skin, hide blemishes and freckles, wash teeth and take away bad breath, dying hair, wax, treat lips and gums chaps. M. A. Farage*, K. W. Miller*, P. Elsner and H. I. Maibach_ - *The Procter & Gamble Company, Winton Hill Business Center, Cincinnati, OH, USA, _Klinik Fur Dennatologic, Friedrich-Schiller-Universitat, Jena, Deutschland and _Department of Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco, CA, USA Correspondence: Dr. Miranda A. Farage, The Procter & Gamble Company, Winton Hill Business Center, 6110 Center Hill Road, PO Box 136, Cincinnati, OH 45224, USA. Tel.: +I 513 634 5594 fax: +I 513 634 7364 e-mail: farage.m@pg.com As the proportion of the ageing population in industrialized countries continues to increase, the dermatological concerns of the aged grow in medical importance. Intrinsic structural changes occur as a natural consequence of ageing and are genetically determined. The rate of ageing is significantly different among different populations, as well as among different anatomical sites even within a single individual. The intrinsic rate of skin ageing in any individual can also be dramatically influenced by personal and environmental factors, particularly the amount of exposure to ultraviolet light Photodamage, which considerably accelerates th e visible ageing of skin, also greatly increases the risk of cutaneous neoplasms. As the population ages, dermatological focus must shift from ameliorating the cosmetic consequences of skin ageing to decreasing the genuine morbidity associated with problems of the ageing skin. A better understanding of both the intrinsic and extrinsic influences on the ageing of the skin, as well as distinguishing the retractable aspects of cutaneous ageing (primarily honnonal and lifestyle influences) from the irretractable (primarily intrinsic ageing), is crucial to this endeavour. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 333

334 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE A new decorin-like tetrapeptide for optimal organization of collagen fibres A. Puig, J.M. Garcia Anto'n and M. Mangues Lipotec SA, Isaac Peral 17, 08850 Gava', Barcelona, Spain Correspondence: A. Puig, Lipotec SA, Isaac Peral 17, 08850 Gava·, Barcelona, Spain. Tel.: +34 93 638 00 00 fax: +34 93 638 93 93 e-mail: apuig@lipotec.com In line with the Operations Manual of the IFSCC, this 2007 IFSCC Conference Award winning paper will also be published in the IFSCC Magazine. Decorin interacts with collagen via its protein core a nd influences collagen fibrillogenesis, thus regulating excessive bundle-like aggregation of collagen. As skin ages, there is lack of functional decorin, which results in disrupted collagen fibres and in a reduction in the tensile strength of the skin . Therefore, a substitute for decorin would make up for the non-functional decorin that is present as we age. Two tetrapeptide sequences have been identified as the specific binding sites of decorin to collagen fibrils. These sequences were engineered to generate new tetrapeptides with improved affinity that would present a decorin-like activity. A focused library of several candidates was synthesized containing only tetrapeptides that mimicked the binding sequences of decorin. The ca ndidates were screened with an in vitro collagen fibrillogenesis assay and the tetrapeptide with International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCi) name Tripeptide-10 Citrulline achieved the best results. Like decorin, this synthetic tetrapeptide proved, through in vitro tests, to regulate collagen fibrillogenesis and to influence the diameter of collagen fibres, making them thinner and more uniform. Tripeptide-10 Citrulline is a new cosmetic active to target specifically collagen fibre organization. Skin collagen quality is addressed rather than skin collagen quantity. Tripeptide-10 Citrulline ensures uniformity in fibril diameter and increases skin suppleness because of a better cohesion of collagen fibres. Oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin, induces the secretion of melanocyte growth and activating factors from keratinocytes, which results in the fonnation of cutaneous hyperpigmentation. Thus, increasing the anti­ oxidative ability of skin cells is expected to be a good strategy for skin-lightening cosmetics. Metallothionein (MT) is one of the stress-induced proteins and is known to exhibit a strong anti-oxidative property. We previously reported that a zinc(II) complex with glycine (Zn(II)(Gly)2) effectively induces MT expression in cultured human keratinocytes. To determine its potential as a new skin lightening active, we examined whether Zn(Il)(Gly)2 regulates the release of melanocyte-activating factors from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and affects melanin production in a reconstructed human epidermal equivalent. Conditioned medium from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes accelerated melanocyte proliferation to 110%, and that increase could be prevented by pre-treatment with Zn(IIXG1y)2. In addition, Zn(Il)(Gly)2 significantly reduced both the production of prostaglandin E2 and proopiomelanocortin expression in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. Zn(II)(Gly)2 also decreased melanin production in a reconstructed human epidermal equivalent. These results indicate that MT-induction in the epidermis effectively up-regulates tolerance against oxidative stress and inhibits the secretion of melanocyte growth and activating factors from keratinocytes. Thus, Zn(II)(Gly)2 is a good candidate as a new skin-lightening active. Efficacy of oleuropein against UVB irradiation: preliminary evaluaticn P. Perugini*, M. Vettor•, C. Rona_, L. Troisi_, L. Villanova§, I. Genta•, B. Conti* and F. Pavanetto• *Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, University of Pavia, Pavia, _Dermatological Department, IRCSS Policlinico San Matteo, Pavia, _Department of Biological Sciences and Technologies, University of Lecce, Lecce and §Lachifarma s.r.l., Zollino, Lecce, Italy Correspondence: Paola Perugini, Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, University of Pavia, V.le A Zn(II}-glycine complex suppresses UVB-induced Taramelli 12, 27100 Pavia, Italy. Tel.: +390382987363 melanin production by stimulating metallothionein fax: +390382422975 e-mail: paola.perugini@unipv.it expression Y. Ochiai*, S. Kaburagi*, Y. Okano•, H. Masaki*, M. lchihashi_, Y. Funasaka_ and H. Sakurai§ *Cosmos Technical Center Co., Ltd, 3-24-3 Hasune, Itabashi-ku, Tokyo I 74-0046, _Sun Clinic, Sun Care Institute, 3-3-18 Dojima, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-0003, _Division of Dermatology, Department of Clinical Molecular Medicine, Kobe University Graduate School of Medicine, 7-5-1 Kusunoki-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe 650-0017 and §Department of Analytical and Bioinorganic Chemistry, Kyoto Pharmaceutical University, Nakauchi­ cho 5, Misasagi, Yamashina-ku, Kyoto 607-8414, Japan Correspondence: Hitoshi Masaki, Cosmos Technical Center Co., Ltd, 3-24-3 Hasune, ltabashi-Ku, Tokyo 174-0046, Japan. Tel.: +81 3 3966 7755 fax: +81 3 3966 7307 e-mail: masaki@ns-cosmos.co.jp Presented at the 7th International Congress of the International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (ISCD), Rome, 4-6 November 2004, Italy. Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim of this work was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of oleuropein against UVB-induced erythema. To this end, an emulsion and an emulgel containing oleuropein were prepared, applied and evaluated on healthy volunteers who had undergone UVB irradiation to investigate its protective and/or lenitive activity. Protective effect was assayed by application of topical preparations before irradiation and lenitive effect was evaluated after erythema induction.