ABSTRACTS 335 Vitamin E was used as the reference compound. Our study was carried out by using noninvasive techniques to assess specific skin parameters: barrier function, skin colour and microcirculation. Results clearly showed that oleuropein fonnulations highlighted lenitive efficacy by reducing erythema, transepidennal water loss and blood flow of about 22%, 35% and 30% respectively. The study allowed us to point out the lenitive property of oleuropein, opening the way to further trials to deepen our specific knowledge about this natural molecule, which could be used in association with other active ingredients in osmetics to repair UV damages. Green procedure for the preparation of scented alcohols from carbonyl compowids Carla Villa, Beatrice Trucchi, Raffaella Gambaro and Sara Baldassari Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche dell'Universita', Genova, Italy Correspondence: Carla Villa, Dipartimento di Scienze Fannaceutiche dell 'Universita', Viale Benedetto XV, 3 - 16132 Genova, Italy. Tel.: +390103538377 fax: +390103538358 e-mail: carlavi1la@unige.it Several alcohols - interesting as cosmetic fragrances whose main preparative route on an industrial scale or in the research laboratory is the reduction of the corresponding carbonyl compound - were obtained by a solvent-free methodology in a green chemistry context. The process involves the simple mixing of the carbonyl compound with sodium borohydride dispersed in wet alumina in the solid state the conversions of the carbonyl compounds were obtained in good yields within short reaction times, without energy consumption. The following carbinols were studied: octan-3-ol, 2-cineolylols (endo-exo mixture), a­ ionol, 4-methylbenzyl alcohol, 1-phenylethanol, transcinnamyl alcohol, p-anisyl alcohol, 4-phenyl-3-buten- 2-ol. Effects of aloesin on melanogenesis in pigmented skin equivalents Z. Wang*, X. Li_, Z. Yang*, X. He_, J. Tu* and T. Zhang* *Department of Oral and Maxillofacial Plastic Surgery, Stomatological Hospital, Xi'an Jiao Tong University, 98 Xiwu Road Xi'an, Shaanxi, _Department ofDennatology, the Second Hospital, Xi'an Jiaotong University Key and Laboratory of Gene and Environment of Ministry of Education, 157 Xiwu Road, Xi'an, Shaanxi 710004, and _Department of Orthopaedics, the Second Hospital, Xi'an Jiaotong University, 157 Xiwu Road, Xi'an, Shaanxi 710004, China Correspondence: Zhuangqun Yang, Department of Oral and Maxillofacial Plastic Surgery, Stomatologica\ Hospital, Xi'an Jiao Tong University, 98 Xiwu Road Xi'an, Shaanxi, China. Tel.: 086 029 87256632 fax: 086 029 87273400 e-mail: yzhqun@mail.xjtu.edu.cn Reconstituted 3-dimensional human skin equivalents in vitro are gaining popularity for studies of skin metabolism and depigmenting agents because they exhibit orphological and growth characteristics similar to human skin. The effects of aloesin on melanogenesis, however, have never been examined with the pigmented skin equivalent. The purpose of the study was to construct the skin equivalent and observe the effects of aloesin on melanogenesis in the model. We constructed an in vitro pigmented skin equivalent and examined the general structure and condition of the pigmented skin equivalent with H&E staining and Fontana Masson staining. Then, we examined the effects of aloes in on tyrosinase activity and fonnation of melanin in the model. Such a pigmented skin model demonstrated morphology similar to that seen in nonnal skin and can be used to assess the regulation of pigmentation by melanogenic compounds. The results suggested that aloesin had direct inhibitory effects on melanogenesis and showed dose-dependent reductions in tyrosinase activity (P 0.05) and melanin content (P 0.05). In conclusion, our study indicated that skin equivalents provided a convenient and costeffective alternative to animal testing for evaluating the regulation of pigmentation. Aloesin showed promise as a pigmentation­ altering agent for cosmetic or therapeutic applications. Analysis of fluoride in toothpastes on the Belgian Market M. Borremans*, J. Van Loco*, P. Van Den Meerssche_, J. Meunier_, E.Vrindts_ and L. Goeyens* *Scientific Institute of Public Health, Brussels and _Federal Public Service of Public Health Food Chain Safety and Environment, Brussels, Belgium Correspondence: Magda Borremans, Scientific Institute of Public Health, Juliette Wytsmanstraat 14, B-1050 Brussels, Belgium. Tel.: +32 2 642 5168 fax: +32 2 642 5327 e-mail: magda.borremans(@iph.fgov.be We developed a method for the quantitative detennination of sodium fluoride (NaF), sodium monofluorophosJfiate (SMFP) and amine fluoride (AmF) in toothpastes on the Belgian market. Samples were suspended in water and the determination was made using anion chromatography with conductivity detection after chemical suppression. The described ion chromatographic method is an easy and reliable isocratic high-performance liquid chromatography method for the detennination of total soluble fluoride content in toothpastes. The analytical repeatability and reproducibility, the matrix effects and the method's decision limit of three different toothpastes containing NaF, SMFP and AmF at a concentration close to the permitted one of 0.15 g % total F are determined. All the samples analysed are in conformity with the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EC none exceeds the limit of 0.15 g %. The 2007 International Journal of Cosmetic Science Publication Prize The IJCS Publication Prize was instituted in 1969. It is awarded for the best scientific paper to be submitted for publication in the Society's journal in each calendar year. Until 1978, this applied to those published in the British editions of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Since 1979, it applies to those appearing in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. The prize attracts an honorarium of £500. For the year 2007 the teams of Dr Pavicic at the Department ofDennatology and Allergology, Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich, Germany and Dr Farwick at Evonik, Essen, Gennany won the award for their paper.

336 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Kinetics of moisturizing and firming effects of cosmetic fonnulations E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda, K. Fontaine and G.E. Pie'rard Department of Dermatopathology, University Hospital of Lie'ge, Lie'ge, Belgium Correspondence: Gerald E Pierard, Department of Dermatopathology, CHU Sart Tilman, B-4000 Lie'ge, Belgium. Tel.: +3243662408 fax: +3243662976 e-mail: gerald.pierard@ulg.ac.be The assessment of cosmetic efficacy is rarely perfonned in studies comparing different concentrations of active compounds. The aim of the present study was to determine the skin hydrating and the skin finning dose-response effects of cosmetic formulations enriched in compounds derived from algae and fish collagen. A series of factors were studied including the type of fonnulation ( cream or serum), the concentration in active ingredients, the effect of repetitive applications, as well as any residual effect of the formulations after stopping their applications. The serum enriched in marine compounds showed a better moisturizing effect in short term. The cream appeared more active later, particularly following repeat applications. A sustained tensor (finning) effect was observed during treatment with both the lotion and the cream. However, no remnant firming effect was perceived after stopping treatment.