342 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE GREEN CHEMISTRY: THE NATURAL ALLY OF THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY Pierre Chartier de Chily ALDIVIA SAS Introduction: Customers' Aspirations Today, cosmetic markets follow a strong trend: long-term beauty is linked to well being, health and nature. Consumers wish to buy effective, healthy and natural products, which protect their skin as much as their environment. It is for that reason that natural cosmetics exploded in France in 2005, with a 40 % annual growth rate. History: Recent Problems Over the past few years, the cosmetics industry has been destabilized by assertions about the harmfulness of certain ingredients, such as parabens. Regulatory issues around toxicity were handled by many uncoordinated agencies. Also, regulatory efforts were generally focused on residual levels of pollutants in the air and water, but little attention was given to issues such as bioaccumulation. Response From The Cosmetic Industry To Date The cosmetic industry has already made numerous changes to address these issues: Safety testing of products Environmental rules, such as the elimination of CFCs REACH (Registration Evaluation and Authorization of Chemicals), establishing the recording and the control of more than 30,000 substances in Europe Green chemistry gives us a good starting point from which to develop ingredients which are a safe substitute for problematic existing ingredients. The Central Role of Chemistry In Our Evolution Chemistry is omnipresent: in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, agriculture, food, transportation infrustructure, materials, scientific research ... in all sectors of our society. It is an indispensable tool, and need to play a central role in the evolution of safe and effective cosmetic ingredients in the future. Green Chemistry's Keystone "Prevention is better than cure" is Green Chemistry's motto. It is a fundamental idea, and aims to resolve toxicity and pollution issues at the source of the problem rather than handling them downstream. By reducing effluents and energy consumption By using and by producing non toxic, renewable and biodegradable substances The 12 principles of the green chemistry can be grouped in 2 classes. The first focuses on efficiency: minimizing energy and materials use, maximizing yields, etc. The second focuses on producing safer products and avoiding pollution. EFFICIENCY I. Molecular Economy - Favour rearrangements - And additions - A void substitutions - And eliminations ■ I ■ m:$--­ -+•m:?$- -♦·c:::$-+•· .... � ... +•· 2. Energy economy, still too little studied in the chemical industry, could yield substantial improvements 3. The use of alternative catalysts instead ofstoechiometric reactions 4. The use of selected renewable raw materials produced while respecting the environment 5. The suppression of temporary chemical modifications (protection/deprotection) which is inefficient in terms of reagents and energy J Deprotectlon � Reaction

2008 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 343 6. The use of real-time analysis, allowing to constantly optimize reactions and reduce waste and purification steps MORE SAFETY AND LESS POLLUTION: 7. by limiting waste production 8. by facilitating the production of non persistent products 9. by creating less harmful syntheses processes 10. by creating safer but as effective products (by making them less bioavailable for example, or by neutralizing the toxic function) 11. by using green reagents 12. by limiting the risks of accidents (utilizing "just in time" methods for example, which produce dangerous substances just upstream their use) Advantages of Green Chemistry Green Chemistry has many positive impacts on health, the environment, and on working conditions. The economic and technical advantages are evident, although they do require investment. It is extremely likely that out of necessity, green chemistry will become the standard in the future. The potential of innovation is enormous, and innovation is one of main engines of the current economy. Green Chemistry tends to facilitate savings on many levels, including optimization of yields, energy savings, waste treatment reduction and reduced security systems costs. The investment in Green Chemistry is of a long-term nature, but it remains the best strategy available to us. Renewable Vegetable Raw Material sources offer numerous possibilities and advantages: They are biodegradable and renewable, They maintain the balance of greenhouse gases, They are at the source of many innovations: surfactants, solvents, emulsifiers and cosmetic actives Natural products address current consumer demand. Green Chemistry has undeniable benefits, and wilt be central in future developments, but its evolution has been very slow. Global awareness has been quite recent: In 1972, the Summit of United Nations on Man and the Environment in Stockholm marks the start of awareness, at a global level, of the impact of human activities on the environment. In 1987, after an international meeting, the World Commission on the Environment and the Bruntland Commission define the concept of sustainable development The "Pollution Prevention Act" in the USA, launched in 1990, places the prevention of pollution in the foreground and leads to the definition of green chemistry by the US Environmental Protection Agency. More To Be Done The development of these concepts requires effort at every level: Education of future chemists Investment in research Promotion of Green Chemistry Recognition of the relevance and importance of this approach Much research remains to be done for Green Chemistry to reach the levels of profitability and efficiency of conventional chemistry. At present, costs are often higher and yields lower because of the variability in the quality ofnatural raw materials. Natural raw materials are subject to growing conditions such as drought, etc. However, if we consider truly all the costs of the production and use cycle, including environmental and physiological costs on our society, we believe that Green Chemistry is indeed the solution for the future.