350 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(44) Robinson MH, Wickett RR. Biochemical and bioengineering analysis of the skin’s natural moisturizing
factors. J Cosmet Sci. 2004 55:211–212.
(45) Ya-Xian Z, Suetake T, Tagami H. Number of cell layers of the stratum corneum in normal skin:
relationship to the anatomical location on the body, age, sex, and physical parameters. Arch Dermatol Res.
1999 291:555–559.
(46) Holleran WM, Takagi Y, Menon GK, et al. Permeability barrier requirements regulate epidermal beta-
glucocerebrosidase. J Lipid Res. 1994 35:905–912.
(47) Holleran WM, Takagi Y, Menon GK, Legler G, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Processing of epidermal
glucosylceramides is required for optimal mammalian cutaneous permeability barrier function. J Clin
Invest. 1993 91:1656–1664.
(48) Mao-Qiang M, Feingold KR, Jain M, Elias PM. Extracellular processing of phospholipids is required for
permeability barrier homeostasis. J Lipid Res. 1995 36:1925–1935.
(49) Mao-Qiang M, Jain M, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Secretory phospholipase A2 activity is required for
permeability barrier homeostasis. J Invest Dermatol. 1996 106:57–63.
(50) Fluhr JW, Kao J, Jain M, et al. Generation of free fatty acids from phospholipids regulates stratum
corneum acidification and integrity. J Invest Dermatol. 2001 117:44–51.
(51) Delfino M, Procaccini EM, Illiano GMP, Milone A. X-linked ichthyosis: relation between cholesterol
sulphate, dehydroepiandrosterone sulphate, and patient’s age. Br J Dermatol. 1998 138:655–657.
(52) Elias PM, Williams ML, Maloney ME, et al. Stratum corneum lipids in disorders of cornification: steroid
sulfatase and cholesterol sulfate in normal desquamation and the pathogenesis of recessive X-linked
ichthyosis. J Clin Invest. 1984 74:1414–1421.
(53) Zettersten E, Man MQ, Sato J, et al. Recessive X-linked ichthyosis: role of cholesterol-sulfate accumulation
in the barrier abnormality. J Invest Dermatol. 1998 111:784–790.
(54) Swartzendruber DC, Wertz PW, Kitko DJ, Madison KC, Downing DT. Molecular models of the
intercellular lipid lamellae in mammalian stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol. 1989 92:251–257.
(55) Marks R. Measurement of biological ageing in human epidermis. Br J Dermatol. 1981 104:627–633.
(56) Grove GL, Lavker RM, Hoelzle E, Kligman AM. Use of non-intrusive tests to monitor age-associated
changes in human skin. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1981 32:15–26.
(57) Plewig G. Regional differences of cell sizes in the human stratum corneum. II. Effects of sex and age. J
Invest Dermatol. 1970 54:19–23.
(58) Starr NJ, Johnson DJ, Wibawa J, et al. Age-related changes to human stratum corneum lipids detected using
time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry following in vivo sampling. Anal Chem. 2016 88:4400–4408.
(59) Imokawa G, Abe A, Jin K, et al. Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis:
an etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? J Invest Dermatol. 1991 96:523–526.
(60) Rogers J, Harding C, Mayo A, Banks J, Rawlings A. Stratum corneum lipids: the effect of ageing and
the seasons. Arch Dermatol Res. 1996 288:765–770.
(61) Denda M, Koyama J, Hori J, et al. Age- and sex-dependent change in stratum corneum sphingolipids.
Arch Dermatol Res. 1993 285:415–417.
(62) Wohlrab J, Gabel A, Wolfram M, et al. Age- and diabetes-related changes in the free fatty acid
composition of the human stratum corneum. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2018 31:283–291.
(63) Fujiwara A, Morifuji M, Kitade M, et al. Age-related and seasonal changes in covalently bound ceramide
content in forearm stratum corneum of Japanese subjects: determination of molecular species of
ceramides. Arch Dermatol Res. 2018 310:729–735.
(64) Choe C, Schleusener J, Lademann J, Darvin ME. Age-related depth profiles of human stratum
corneum barrier-related molecular parameters by confocal Raman microscopy in vivo. Mech Ageing Dev.
2018 172:6–12.
(65) Nilsson GE. Measurement of water exchange through the skin. Med Biol Eng Comput. 1977 15:209–218.
(66) Berardesca E, Maibach HI. Transepidermal water loss and skin surface hydration in the non-invasive
assessment of stratum corneum function. Derm Beruf Umwelt. 1990 38:50–53.
(44) Robinson MH, Wickett RR. Biochemical and bioengineering analysis of the skin’s natural moisturizing
factors. J Cosmet Sci. 2004 55:211–212.
(45) Ya-Xian Z, Suetake T, Tagami H. Number of cell layers of the stratum corneum in normal skin:
relationship to the anatomical location on the body, age, sex, and physical parameters. Arch Dermatol Res.
1999 291:555–559.
(46) Holleran WM, Takagi Y, Menon GK, et al. Permeability barrier requirements regulate epidermal beta-
glucocerebrosidase. J Lipid Res. 1994 35:905–912.
(47) Holleran WM, Takagi Y, Menon GK, Legler G, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Processing of epidermal
glucosylceramides is required for optimal mammalian cutaneous permeability barrier function. J Clin
Invest. 1993 91:1656–1664.
(48) Mao-Qiang M, Feingold KR, Jain M, Elias PM. Extracellular processing of phospholipids is required for
permeability barrier homeostasis. J Lipid Res. 1995 36:1925–1935.
(49) Mao-Qiang M, Jain M, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Secretory phospholipase A2 activity is required for
permeability barrier homeostasis. J Invest Dermatol. 1996 106:57–63.
(50) Fluhr JW, Kao J, Jain M, et al. Generation of free fatty acids from phospholipids regulates stratum
corneum acidification and integrity. J Invest Dermatol. 2001 117:44–51.
(51) Delfino M, Procaccini EM, Illiano GMP, Milone A. X-linked ichthyosis: relation between cholesterol
sulphate, dehydroepiandrosterone sulphate, and patient’s age. Br J Dermatol. 1998 138:655–657.
(52) Elias PM, Williams ML, Maloney ME, et al. Stratum corneum lipids in disorders of cornification: steroid
sulfatase and cholesterol sulfate in normal desquamation and the pathogenesis of recessive X-linked
ichthyosis. J Clin Invest. 1984 74:1414–1421.
(53) Zettersten E, Man MQ, Sato J, et al. Recessive X-linked ichthyosis: role of cholesterol-sulfate accumulation
in the barrier abnormality. J Invest Dermatol. 1998 111:784–790.
(54) Swartzendruber DC, Wertz PW, Kitko DJ, Madison KC, Downing DT. Molecular models of the
intercellular lipid lamellae in mammalian stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol. 1989 92:251–257.
(55) Marks R. Measurement of biological ageing in human epidermis. Br J Dermatol. 1981 104:627–633.
(56) Grove GL, Lavker RM, Hoelzle E, Kligman AM. Use of non-intrusive tests to monitor age-associated
changes in human skin. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1981 32:15–26.
(57) Plewig G. Regional differences of cell sizes in the human stratum corneum. II. Effects of sex and age. J
Invest Dermatol. 1970 54:19–23.
(58) Starr NJ, Johnson DJ, Wibawa J, et al. Age-related changes to human stratum corneum lipids detected using
time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry following in vivo sampling. Anal Chem. 2016 88:4400–4408.
(59) Imokawa G, Abe A, Jin K, et al. Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis:
an etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? J Invest Dermatol. 1991 96:523–526.
(60) Rogers J, Harding C, Mayo A, Banks J, Rawlings A. Stratum corneum lipids: the effect of ageing and
the seasons. Arch Dermatol Res. 1996 288:765–770.
(61) Denda M, Koyama J, Hori J, et al. Age- and sex-dependent change in stratum corneum sphingolipids.
Arch Dermatol Res. 1993 285:415–417.
(62) Wohlrab J, Gabel A, Wolfram M, et al. Age- and diabetes-related changes in the free fatty acid
composition of the human stratum corneum. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2018 31:283–291.
(63) Fujiwara A, Morifuji M, Kitade M, et al. Age-related and seasonal changes in covalently bound ceramide
content in forearm stratum corneum of Japanese subjects: determination of molecular species of
ceramides. Arch Dermatol Res. 2018 310:729–735.
(64) Choe C, Schleusener J, Lademann J, Darvin ME. Age-related depth profiles of human stratum
corneum barrier-related molecular parameters by confocal Raman microscopy in vivo. Mech Ageing Dev.
2018 172:6–12.
(65) Nilsson GE. Measurement of water exchange through the skin. Med Biol Eng Comput. 1977 15:209–218.
(66) Berardesca E, Maibach HI. Transepidermal water loss and skin surface hydration in the non-invasive
assessment of stratum corneum function. Derm Beruf Umwelt. 1990 38:50–53.























































































































































































































