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]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 333-336 CTuly/August 2008) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 30, No. 2, 2008* Review Article Review Article The first cosmetic treatise of history. A female point of Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a Review view P. Cavallo*, M. C. Proto*, C. Patruno_, A. Del Sorbo* and M. Bifulco* *Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Salemo, Via Ponte don Melillo, Fisciano (Salemo) and _Dermatologia Ambulatoriale, AA.SS.LL. NA1-NA5, 2 Regione Campania, Italy Correspondence: Maurizio Bifulco, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Salemo, Via Ponte don Melillo, 84084 Fisciano (Salemo), Italy. Tel.: +39 0899 64381 fax: +39 0899 69602 e-mail: maubiful@unisa.it The Schola Medica Salemitana was an early medieval medical school in the south Italian city of Salemo and the most important native source of medical knowledge in Europe at the time. The school achieved its splendour between the 10th and 13th centuries, during the final decades ofL ongobard kingdom. In the school, women were involved as both teachers and students for medical learning. Among these women, there was Trotula de Ruggiero (11th century), a teacher whose main interest was to alleviate suffering of women. She was the author of many medical works, the most notable being De Passionibus Mulierum Curandarum (about women's diseases), also known as Trotula Major. Another important work she wrote was De Omatu Mulierum (about women's cosmetics), also known as Trotula Minor, in which she teaches women to conserve and improve their beauty and treat skin diseases through a series of precepts, advices and natural remedies. She gives lessons about make-up, suggests the way to be unwrinkled, remove puffiness from face and eyes, remove unwanted hair from the body, lighten the skin, hide blemishes and freckles, wash teeth and take away bad breath, dying hair, wax, treat lips and gums chaps. M. A. Farage*, K. W. Miller*, P. Elsner and H. I. Maibach_ - *The Procter & Gamble Company, Winton Hill Business Center, Cincinnati, OH, USA, _Klinik Fur Dennatologic, Friedrich-Schiller-Universitat, Jena, Deutschland and _Department of Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco, CA, USA Correspondence: Dr. Miranda A. Farage, The Procter & Gamble Company, Winton Hill Business Center, 6110 Center Hill Road, PO Box 136, Cincinnati, OH 45224, USA. Tel.: +I 513 634 5594 fax: +I 513 634 7364 e-mail: farage.m@pg.com As the proportion of the ageing population in industrialized countries continues to increase, the dermatological concerns of the aged grow in medical importance. Intrinsic structural changes occur as a natural consequence of ageing and are genetically determined. The rate of ageing is significantly different among different populations, as well as among different anatomical sites even within a single individual. The intrinsic rate of skin ageing in any individual can also be dramatically influenced by personal and environmental factors, particularly the amount of exposure to ultraviolet light Photodamage, which considerably accelerates th e visible ageing of skin, also greatly increases the risk of cutaneous neoplasms. As the population ages, dermatological focus must shift from ameliorating the cosmetic consequences of skin ageing to decreasing the genuine morbidity associated with problems of the ageing skin. A better understanding of both the intrinsic and extrinsic influences on the ageing of the skin, as well as distinguishing the retractable aspects of cutaneous ageing (primarily honnonal and lifestyle influences) from the irretractable (primarily intrinsic ageing), is crucial to this endeavour. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 333